Out of curiosity today I decided to check my plugs before I rode & found all of them a little sooty - black soot, so I thought I was running a little rich.
I'm pretty new at messing with this carb, but today I got brave & took it apart just to see where everything was set. I found the float level was too high (according to Doc's dry check method) so I fixed that. Then I looked at the main jet (Baron's 170 BTW). The needle was as follows from the blunt end: Silver washer, clip, silver washer, white spacer. I removed the washer from above the spacer, which to me, seems like it would lean it out, right? I set the PMS at 3 turns.
Anyway I just got back from a test ride and I don't know if it is just me hoping, but I think it really ran a lot better.
I guess a question would be are my settings close to a good starting point? Any other suggestions about jet size, needle spacer/washer position, PMS position, float level, or anything I may have absolutely messed up?
Sorry for the long post and thanks for any response.
John

The washer should be below the spacer. Not on top. And you should have it in there. You can't just guess at jetting. You need to follow a procedure.

Make sure you have no air leaks on the intake or exhaust. And make sure your float level is good. For Mikuni jets - Start with the 167.5 main. Have the 170 handy. For Dyno jets the 180 seems to work for most but not all. Set the clip in the 5th groove from the blunt end. PMS at 2 1/2 to 3 turns out. Do the WOT. If the main checks out go to the 4th groove and tweak the needle and PMS from there.

Sea level is leanest. You get richer as you go up in elevation.

The suggested starting points listed above are just that. Starting points. You need to tweak the settings until they are right for your bike.

Thanks I'll change the position of the washer tomorrow before I ride.

Just so we're on the same page. From the blunt end - washer, clip, spacer, washer.

That's what I thought you meant.....i just removed the washer from below the spacer. My bad.