I've read that R* starters tend to be on the weak side, and they did produce stronger ones for the Warrior, which bolts right up.

I've been having the same problem lately. So I've ordered a 310cca. battery because I've read that when adding optional equipment such as passing lamps and Stebel Air Horn you have reached the load capacity of the stock battery. Stock is 270cca. Will keep you posted if this helps.

It opens the exhaust valve to relieve the pressure on the pistons before the start process begins.The solenoid pops out and hits the"Spoon" and it activates the opening of the exhaust valve.The spoon should be flush against it when at rest.You can test it by pulling the spoon toward you while trying to start. I have never done it because I have had no need to but you can bend that spoon to make it flush against the solenoid is my understanding.Also I am not sure how far the solenoid should come out in case that is your problem.It could very well be what Musky said will do the trick ...another question I have is do you have High compression pistons because if you do you probably want to move on to the Warrior starter as well as larger guage wire from the battery to the starter and to ground from the battery to handle the voltage increase.Anywho to me Yami just got a little too cheap with the stock starter system....Coug

I have the same problem and have tried various things to no avail ....

- high output battery
- new solenoid
- 4 guage cables

I seems that some just don't crank over well and I suspect it's due to the starter being borderline acceptable and it's the luck of the draw whether you get one that works or not.

It's not uncommon for me to pull the spoon of the solenoid out to get it to start.

Time for a chromed Warrior starter.

Doc