Its possible, but I checked the fuel in the bowl tonight for grins, all seemed well, and the first sign of her acting up came about 1/2 way through this second tank.
I'll ride it hard tommorrow and feel you in, maybe it is just jetting
Appreciate your pointers, I should be a carb pro when this is done , but now , I must sleep, as tommorrow comes quickly round these parts. Thanks Musky,BB.<br><br>Post edited by: Big Bear, at: 2007/03/02 23:03

Does it act up right away or after you've been riding for a while?

Musky wrote:
Does it act up right away or after you've been riding for a while?
Musky, ...You talking about the WIFE or the CARB? <br><br>Post edited by: GRAM, at: 2007/03/03 09:22

Bravo, I'm making progress, just in the wrong direction. But it is progress. Rode it yesterday(3/3) pretty much all afternoon. Ran terrible. Went to see &quot;wild hogs&quot; last night (enjoyed), got home late, went to bed. Now it wanted to and did stall just about every time I stopped. All I did friday night was replace the main jet, and needle, did not remove the carb completely as it was not necessary with the allen head bowl screws (woho), so the choke and everything else remained the same as when it was running lean. NOW, the plugs (pulled the 2 you can get to without pulling the tank) are all sooted, so I'm running rich.
Here is the current set-up : stock pilot, mukuni 170 main (Barons jet kit), Barons needle on 4th notch from the top, PMS at 2 1/2 turns. It warmed up fine on the choke, but did the whole stumble after a mile thing again (after cold take off's) and felt loaded (FAT) while I was riding, performance was affected. I could tell when it was going to stall at stop signs by the way it was running moments before the stop.
I do know it's gonna require fine tuning, so I'm gonna fiddle with it this afternoon. Now, should I step down a jet size (167.5), or just drop the needle one notch, or both maybe?

Hey BB

If you are going to do the jetting again then follow the procedere. You want to get the main right first, then work on the needle, then the PMS. Here's the how to - http://roadstarclinic.com/content/view/94/96/

Personally I think you need to look elsewhere since you've been all over the place with the jetting and your still having problems. Roadies run fine rich and you have to go way lean to make them run bad. I haven't seen any of your settings that would put you too far in either direction. But follow the jetting procedure and see what happens.

Just for the record I think you have an air leak somewhere.

Musky, I would tend to agree with you, only I've tested the 3 areas (manifold, both AIS ports) repeatedly with ether with NO results (change to the motor).
BTW, thanks for the link.BB<br><br>Post edited by: Big Bear, at: 2007/03/04 13:48

There are 4 places on the manifold alone.
1. - Where it bolts to the front cyl.
2. - Where it bolts to the rear cyl.
3. - The nipple on top of the manifold
4. - The manifold / carb boot connection.

Ais / Engine
1. - The hole in the front cyl
2. - The hole in the rear cylinder

Airbox
1. - Airbox / carb boot connection
2. - I believe you have a K&amp;N in there. Did you hook that up right?

That's 8 right there. And leaks don't always show up when you test for them at an idle.

Not trying to be a prick. I just want you to cover all the bases. Trying to tune a bike with an air leak will put you in the rubber room. And my room is crowded enough here already

You are also not going to be able to tune a bike that has sticking valves that too is a possibility....Coug ooops the exhaust brain fart <br><br>Post edited by: Cougar, at: 2007/03/04 15:50

Hey BB
went back and read your original posts need help quick......bike runs bad.... after warming runs fine .Dumped seafoam in it ran fine for a week. I think you still have sticking valves.......prove me wrong by putting a kleenex to the pipes while idling and then reving....if it sucks it in then spits it out its svs if it doesnt then thats eliminated .....but only make one change at a time is my suggestion......getting hard to keep up with what your doing ....good luck I know its frustrating as hell.......Coug

1. do the kleenex thing to test for SVS

2 Do the ether or WD 40 thing to test for intake leak
(Do this one well... because I tore my Harley from inside out.. to only find it was the intake manifold)

Then move onto carb or electrical

Just my 2 cents...I know it can be SOB frustrating <br><br>Post edited by: Pop Rivet, at: 2007/03/04 17:59