Just had Bike Dyno'ed and came off poorly stock numbers 66 Hp and 92 pounds of torque; I have 42 mm Mikuni carb, Ported intake manifold, Barons BAK, Bubs shorties (same as Curt's Black-ice) as well as Dyna 3000, iridium plugs - yada yada... Went for road trip 300 KM (225 miles) each way
only getting about 200 km to the tank, stutter or blank when I blip throttle, and is hard pressed to break 200 kmh. Returned to shop to talk more about out comes, told to bring back for re-tune now the conversation is like this - My accelerator pump is seized, water in float bowl with gold fish ( hasn't rained since first tune) and float bowl is damaged. We will price this out for you. and get back to you. Do you think these items should have been discovered during last dyno and tune? and I must say I don't mind being fair but in reality something just doesn't seem right

Am I out to lunch in my thinking? I figure high 70's maybe low 80's


Please let me Know

Bruzer

Yeah. I have to agree. With the ported intake, 42 carb, bak, and all that, it should be higher. Did it run good before you took it to them and come back stuttering? Is the 3000 programable? You may consider a smaller front sprocket. 2 into 1 exhaust would give you some better results, via scavenging. How the hell does a float bowl get damaged. I know the stock screws are hard to remove, but not that hard. Something is fishy and it aint the gold ones in your floatbowl.

It wasn't running bad, but not to what I thought its fullest was. I was getting Almost 300km to the tank, no back fire, just hard starting but not that bad, mechanic says the float is ripped or something like that I will find out more tomorrow, did have a 31 tooth sprocket but spun it off, I have back to stock and am now considering the 30 tooth.

Thanks would still like input that I can return to the shop with as I do trust what I get from you guys Haven't been steered to wrong yet maybe different directions were given but I always get there thank to your help!\


Thanks
Bruzer

You slide is the only thing that could of ripped. 300km is what....140 miles or so. That sounds normal. At least for my 05. It seems the 04's and 05's get about 140 before the light comes on. everyone else seems to get better mileage. It sounds like the richened it up a lot. If they changed the needle setting while the adjusted it, then the rubber diaphragm was stuck to the body of the carb. I can't say that would be their fault, in so many words, because the rubber is extremely thin and has a tendency to get stuck to the carb from heat, but I would try to make them give it to you at cost. I haven't seen a lot of people rip theirs but it has been known to happen. It is something you have to be carfull of. I guess if it was stuck to the cap and the carb, I could see it not being their fault, but an experienced tech knows not to take that for granted. A torn diaphragm might be the cause of your low numbers and your sputtering, since there is nothing to keep the needle from bouncing inside the carb. By your picture, it looks like you have either removed the pump did the hidden pump mod. What is that diamond thing in place of it?

300km is 186 miles, and that's a good number on a tank of gas. HP should be at least mid-70's anyway, with those mods. If the slide diaphram is ripped, that would certainly mess it up. If there's a tear, you have to start there, and replace that before you can do anything else... That may be all it needs to get it right back up and running right.

How can your float bowl be damaged, it's a bowl and only has an overflow tube in it. As far as accel pump, take your air filter off, don't start bike, just twist throttle, if gas comes out of pump nozzle, it's good. I don't care much for dyna runs, I tune by AFR (air/fuel ratio)
42hsr my set-up
25 pilot
1.75 turns out on pilot screw
160 main w/yost power tube
#50 pump nozzle
#98 needle e-clip 2nd groove (count from blunt end)
I get low 40mpg city 50mpg cruise(65, 70mph)
AFR at cruise 14:1 ratio
AFR wot 12.5:1
Idle AFR 13:1 (at operating temps)

The 42 does not use a diaphragm. The slide does not rely on vacuum like the stock carb does. Twisting the throttle moves the slide.

I don't understand touching a motorcycle that is running right and getting almost 186 miles on a tank full. I'm lucky to get 140 on either my 00 or my 02. Do you know the old say "if it ain't broke don't fix it" well here is the reason why.
If I were Bruzer I would pick up the parts myself! I would go back to the mechanic and ask them what changes they made. Then I would return the bike back to where it was along with the new parts all on my own. Don't let them touch your bike again. I had my 2000 on a dyno and the numbers you gave are right there in the ball park. For as long as I have been reading on the R*'s and this forum the average R* is getting around 40mpg and 65-69h.p. and 92-98fpt. Bruzer you were right there were you needed to be!!!!

Bruzer wrote:
Am I out to lunch in my thinking? I figure high 70's maybe low 80's

Yes ... out to lunch. Rule of [my] thumb is with aftermarket air box and pipes a 1600 is about 65/95 HP/T.

200 kph (125 for you US folks) is about all she wrote.

You are correct ... 200 km on a tank is too low ... I normally get around 250 city driving.

I think you need to take it to another shop or do it yourself.

Doc

DocShadow wrote:
Rule of [my] thumb is with aftermarket air box and pipes a 1600 is about 65/95 HP/T.


Doc

But his is an "04" stock is about 63hp 92tq, with his mods, he should have a 10 to 15% increase in hp.

I'm on an "01" with similar mods other than Dooley pipes, and a K&N RC-2000 filter, and I got a 30% increase in hp and about a 12% in tq. Mine is tuned by AFR numbers.