Transam1 wrote:



*Edited for spelling*

I never went to the 137 pilot as everyone here were using the stock ones. I had the 175 main originally
but went to the #170 when I took it apart this time. needle is allready at 3rd groove, wondering if I
should go to 2nd ? I was at 2 1/2 turn on pms. Float level looked good on measurement.
I'll count the turns as I back it in today.
Is the bike still supposed to run with the pms all the way in ?
It's in the teens this morning so I'll wait a bit to check it again.
Thanks again to everyone for the help,
Chris[/quote]


Not the best temps for carb tuning, way too cold. What are your temps in the afternoon or I should say when you get out? Engine needs to get up to operating temps to determine where to tune the carb. Much better to tune in the season you do most of your riding time, then a minor adj. to pilot screw for cooler temps. Gas doesn't atomize as well either. Could take 10, 15 min, depending on air temps before engine is warm enough to operating temps.

Well I just checked the float level. upside down
resting on the seat it measure about 5.3 - 5.4 mil,
hanging down just resting on needle 21.5 mil. I know
in Docs post he shows 7 mil and 20 mil. If I adjust
won't I be richening ? With my plugs being black allready
not sure I should go that way or am I mis-reading things ?
Oh, it is in the 50's now supposed to get to low 60's
today and poss. snow in the next couple.
I've been letting it warm before messing with it even
ride her around the block. Yesterday when it got hot
the stumble was worse. Then I romped on it hard and as
I looked back there was a huge cloud floating.
I ride all year so I'm trying to get her ironed out today before the snow
falls.

Went ahead and set float to as close as I could to
7 mil. Hard to do with caliper but think it's close enough.
Going to try one more time.
Thanks

Well it's a no go, I now have it popping through the
pipes like crazy and the stumble. I was at 2 turns out
and then went to 2 1/2 turns out still popping. I have a
question, I took the air filter off as I adjusted the pms.
Should I see raw fuel come from the area where the needle
comes out of the lower portion of the throat.(When I give it throttle)
Where it drops in the I guess the seat or needle jet you would call it ? Forgive
me if this is a dumb question but in this area I am. Also should
the I assume jet be circular or shielded from the filter side.
Not sure if mine is broken on the inside or just the design.
Again I'm ignorant of the carb design.
Thank you for your continued patience.
Chris

Transam1 wrote:
So I started the bike and squirted carb cleaner near the clamp where the carb mounts to the manifold boot. Thought I noticed a stumble
so I blasted it good and hard and the bike eventually died. Repeated the
spraying and replicated the results. Took the carb off remounted
tightened the clamp same thing.
Chris

Well, it sounds like you do have a vacuum leak where the carb plugs on to the manifold... unless you let the spray get into the front of the carb.
If you can kill it by spraying anywhere behind the carb then there is a leak. You will have to get that figured out first.

BigBoyinMS wrote:
Transam1 wrote:
So I started the bike and squirted carb cleaner near the clamp where the carb mounts to the manifold boot. Thought I noticed a stumble
so I blasted it good and hard and the bike eventually died. Repeated the
spraying and replicated the results. Took the carb off remounted
tightened the clamp same thing.
Chris

Well, it sounds like you do have a vacuum leak where the carb plugs on to the manifold... unless you let the spray get into the front of the carb.
If you can kill it by spraying anywhere behind the carb then there is a leak. You will have to get that figured out first.

Yea, really weird that it would happen now. Of course it may have been amplified
by the jet kit. It could have been doing this allready, since I've owned the bike for only
about a month so just not that familiar with it. It always popped loudly from the
pipes since I got it, just thought it was the ais could be it's been from the
carb boot the whole time. Funny thing though when I had the main in the starter
location I had no pop nothing just wouldn't start with choke. Of course it used more
fuel, apparently it was running rich enough to overcome the leak. Not sure what to
try on the carb throat to manifold. I put some of that Edelbrock tape on but the
boot is so tight it rolled up before it could go into boot. I plan on trying a larger
hose clamp also. Any ideas are welcome.
Thanks all,
Chris

Chris you don't need to go changing things around until you resolve the air leak on the manifold and carb. If you do all you are doing is making it worse and very hard to trouble shoot. Fix the air leak and then you can tackel the jetting and spend less time guessing what to do next.

Transam1 wrote:


Yea, really weird that it would happen now. Of course it may have been amplified
by the jet kit. It could have been doing this allready, since I've owned the bike for only
about a month so just not that familiar with it. It always popped loudly from the
pipes since I got it, just thought it was the ais could be it's been from the
carb boot the whole time. Funny thing though when I had the main in the starter
location I had no pop nothing just wouldn't start with choke. Of course it used more
fuel, apparently it was running rich enough to overcome the leak. Not sure what to
try on the carb throat to manifold. I put some of that Edelbrock tape on but the
boot is so tight it rolled up before it could go into boot. I plan on trying a larger
hose clamp also. Any ideas are welcome.
Thanks all,
Chris

The stock hose clamp has a spacer on the screw to prevent over tightening, some have filed it down a hair to get it to tighten a bit more. Any leak can play mind games with ya on this bike, whether it be an air leak or vacuum leak.

I will be working on the leak in next few days. Wind jumped to about 40 mph
this afternoon and poss. snow tomorrow with 10-20 degree drop in temp.
Maybe this weekend.
Thanks

Well I got some edelbrock tape around the carb neck and put a regular
type hose clamp on the boot and tightened it. The popping stopped but
I noticed a slight change in idle when spraying carb cleaner around the bottom of the boot.
Repositioned clamp and snugged it down but out of carb cleaner.
Went ahead and put it together and started it up, needs choke as it should
and idled okay. Got it toasty warm and played with pms. Best idle was at
3 1/2 turns out or so. Went for a ride and it has a bad stumble ride off
idle when I crack the throttle open. I adjusted the pms in until rough idle
right near full closed and turned out to about 3 1/2 which is where the
ide seems to be smoothest. Still have the stumble when I crack it open.
From 3 1/4 to 3 1/2 turns seems to have the same idle how, sensitive is
the bike to these changes ? Would a 1/8 or 1/4 turn make a difference
in this stumble or do you think there is still a leak ? Is it possible
the plug you put in the large hose could leak causing this ? Only
other thing I could think of would be to raise the needle one more
notch. That would be at 2 is that to lean as I'm at 6500ft.
Thanks,
Chris

Where is your needle now?
1/8 of a turn doesn't seem to make much if any difference on my bike.
Paul