Glad it's starting to come together

Now .... do only one thing at a time. That way if it's worse you can go back and try something else.

So if I read you correctly you’re .... 170 main with needle on 3.5, #40 pilot and PMS at 3 1/8.

It sounds like it’s still a bit lean. I would pull the needle out an set it to 4. That’s the fourth groove from the top of the needle as it sits in the carb. Then go to 4.5 and compare the three settings. If you don't want to take the tank off and on, then hook up a plastic bottle with a hose and go for a short ride. Just make sure it doesn't leak and the man's not around.

Your PMS is also out a bit more than I like but let’s worry about that later. For reference, in is lean - out is rich.

While you’re at it, check the float level just to make sure you didn’t bump anything changing out the jets. You don’t need to take the carb off or dissassemble it to check the level.

Don't worry about the starter jet hole. There was a discussion on the R* Forum a few days ago re the jet hole if you're interested.

Doc

Awe crap Doc, I guess I spoke to soon. This morning I was going to take the bike to work so I started it up, ran good but withing 6 blocks the same thing happen. Spitted and sputtered, backfired, felt like it was running on one cylinder and quit running. I could start it up after a minute or two, it would run good and then ride for another block befor eit acted up again. Logic to me sez, I either have dirt in the tank (even thou I drained it) or we didn't get it all out of the carb. Is there a factory fuel filter somewhere that I can't see? If not I think it would make sense to install one right after the pitcock. I think we are also going to have to pull the carb again tonight and reclean it. At that point I would like to do one of your suggestions in your last post. Make sense or get it running first?

Doc,
Hope I am not becoming to big of a pest with all these questions but we are getting close. Tonight, rather than pull the carb again, we switched plugs and I took it out for a ride with my friend following in his truck. It was night and he wanted to watch and listen. He said that after taking off, he could see blue flames shooting out and could hear that the bike was missing and not running correctly. Once I got out on the highway and it warmed up a bit he didn't see the flames anymore and it ran have way decent but was really doggy and lacked the power it should have had. If I cranked the trottle it didn't do much compared to when I opened it up slowly. Then the speed increased and it sounded better. In lower gears it wasn't to bad but still lacked what it should have. Saturday morning we want to tweak it based on the info you provided in the earlier post. We will probably start with the needle in the forth slot. What is the sequence with the white washer and spacers and whatever and what makes it 4 1/2 verses 4? Any other thoughts. Thanks a million for your help.

Hold the needle the same orientation as when it's in the carb, round end up and tapered end down. The top groove is one and fourth groove is the fourth from the top.

Put the clip on the fourth groove, then put the plastic spacer under the clip .... this is 4.

There are a number of different thickness shims .... gold is 10 mm , silver is 20 mm silver and purple is 30 mm.

As the space between the clip is 40 mm use the silver shim to get 4.5.

There is a filter between the tank and the fuel pump. There is also a small one in the carb.

I re-read your post and it sounds like you may have more than one thing going one. You were running quite rich at one time (180 +50) and I'm wondering if you're all carboned up as "lacking power", "blue flames shooting out", "running on one cylinger", etc.

Doc

It's a good possibilty that you are carboned up like DocShadow said, but keep at it & don't give up, it'll make it that much sweeter when you succeed. Are your coils stock? Are they firing up at peak, that is, getting a good spark? Check both filters, under the tank & the one that goes into the carb fuel inlet, you can pull this one out with tweezers or needle nosed pliers. If you can get her to run decently, run some techron or ringfree throughyour tank, a shock treatment would be good. Stay within the correct jet sizes, don't go too big, you'll end up rich and render useless the cleaning treatment. Let me know how it goes..

Al,
Spent all day. pulling the carb, recleaning, resetting the needle and PMS and continued to struggle. I am at a 40 pilot, 170 main, clip on the 4th slot white spacer under the clip, no spacers, and PMS at 3 1/4. Sometimes it would run, kinda, and sometimes it would only run for a half a block before backfiring, missing and conking out. I'm pissed.....but I think we may have found something. The rubber under the top of the carb is way to big for the housing, like its all streched out of shape. There was no way I could get it to seat properly in the grove. I remember the first time I watched the shop do it, the mechanic had trouble with it to, in fact parts of it stuck out past the edges. I'm thinking I was sucking in air and maybe thats the main problem. Somebody please correct me if I'm wrong but I'm thing I should get a replacement. After doing the best we could to get it seated, the bike actually ran half way decent other than loss of power compared to yesterday and missing a bit with occasionaly coughing thru the carb. Yesterday when the needle clip was on 3 1/2 and the PMS at 3 1/8 first and 2nd were very strong and 5th was a dog. This is driving me nuts but I sure got over my fears about pulling the carb and ripping it apart. :o)

Loobie, thats a good possibilty that the diaphragm is damaged. If it looks over-stretched or torn or deformed in any way, then you are going to need a replacement slide/diaphragm for your carb. The slide rises by vacuum being created when you open the throttle and maybe your erratic performance is due to this. Check out your dealer to see if they have the diaphragm or go to www.motorsportssuperstore.com, they are out of Alabama & ship for $5.00. The diaphragm is about 20 bucks & change.. What do you thing DocShadow or GRAM?

"The rubber under the top of the carb is way to big for the housing, like its all streched out of shape. There was no way I could get it to seat properly in the grove. I remember the first time I watched the shop do it, the mechanic had trouble with it to, in fact parts of it stuck out past the edges. I'm thinking I was sucking in air and maybe thats the main problem. Somebody please correct me if I'm wrong but I'm thing I should get a replacement."

Uhhh .... ditto Big Al.

If the diaphragm has a hole or is 'crimped' the needle will not move smoothly.

Doc

Big Al - Doc,
Thanks for the clarification. All the crap I've gone thru with rejetting and dyno runs really ticks me off if this in fact is the problem. Especially when the local mechanic worked with this the entire time and never did anything about the rubber boot. I was so angry I was going to switch back to stock jetting yesterday but couldn't because they never gave me back all MY stock parts, I had the needle but none of the jets, and they mixed a bunch of Dynojets and Barons jets together in the case. Tomorrow we are going to have a coming to Jesus meeting, I can't wait! When I get the replacement parts, I'll let you know the results and how things are going.
You guys and this forum are just awesome.

Aww shucks .... don't know much but we try and share what we know.

Thanks, good luck and we'd be interested in hearing how things turned out.

Doc