Well, it's on and running. Haven't taken it for a ride yet but it starts and idles so thats a good sign. Thanks to everyone for all the great info re: doing this mod. I wanted to share some of the things I learned along the way for future HSR
- When you make your TPS
bracket, follow the instructions to the letter. I tapped the mount holes for the TPS before I set the resistance (oops) and I wound up having to re-do the mount holes in a different spot. Now the TPS is a bit cock-eyed on the bracket, although you can't really tell with the tank on.
- I was able to use my stock-style throttle cable with a bit of tweaking. I had to cut and drill the cable mount on the HSR as well as bend the bracket downward to get clearance between the throttle cable and the part of the frame that hangs down between the cylinders. I also had too much slack in the cable even with the adjuster all the way out. I wound up moving the throttle end of the cable to the other hole in the grip, where the return cable used to go. I had to slot the plastic between the two holes for the cable, but it worked out well.
- I did have to grind the corner of the TPS sensor to clear the front cylinder, but it seems ok. I re-used the stock (anti-tamper) style screws but I think I will swap them out for allen head style so I can fit a wrench in there in case I want to tweak the TPS while it's mounted. I found that it changed a bit once it was mounted and the bike was started up.
- As I mentioned above, I used 1/16" od
dowel pins to run the TPS instead of shim stock. It made installation easier and I like the idea of the pins being sunk into the shaft 1/4" or so. It did mean that I had to be precise when I ground the ends flat though, as I didn't want any "slop" in the TPS response. There are actually two different steps in the slot inside the TPS. 0.045" and then down to 0.034". I ground my pins to length and then ground the corresponding steps into them for a good fit. I also found an o-ring that fit into the gap between the TPS bracket and the carb
to keep dirt out of there.
- If you get the Pingel fuel valve it comes with a package of gasket goop that would be excellent for sealing your manifold to the heads. They give you WAY too much so you should still have enough left over for your fuel valve install too.
- I used the old idle adjuster mount for my choke. I had to bend the choke cable elbow slightly to clear the front cylinder, and I used the steel nut on the carb as it seems sturdier. I wound up cutting about 1/8" off the steel elbow with a pipe cutter and re-using the pce I cut off as a spacer on the choke knob shaft. This ensures the choke is fully off but avoids it pushing the elbow out of the rubber seal.
- I re-used the stock clamp on the carb boot to mount the HSR, but I used a bit of lube under the clamp to ensure it didn't bind up when I torqued it down (HSR outlet is slightly smaller OD). I also took the spacer off the clamp screw.
- Threadlock, threadlock, threadlock on everything - nuff said !
This was a fun install to do for sure. I encourage anyone who is on-the-fence to go ahead and do it. There is so much info and expertise at your disposal on this site that you really can't go wrong ! I hope my input comes in handy for other planning on this mod.
Pictures coming soon !!