170, needle, 4th groove counting from blunt end. be careful taking the cap off for the needle, small spring that easy to fly away. also be careful on float bowl, there is a o-ring gasket that goes around the edge, and a really small o-ring that fits in a recess where the accelerator pump mechanism is as well. also, pull straight up on that plug, it is held in by friction fit by 4 fingers and can break if you wiggle it out too much, a little saliva on o-ring plug helps to put it back in too.
I would set the
pilot screw at 2 turns out from a light seat to start, raise the idle up a bit at the idle knob,this is just to ensure that it won't stall while engine is sill cold, after a 15min ride, pull over in a safe spot and readjust the idle, a ride, not 15mins at idle, you need a completely warm engine to make final adjustment on idle and on Pilot screw
after ride, and if necessary, make adjustment to pilot screw.
cruise mileage test, I use the same that mikuni uses for there
HSR carb, 65mph on a flat windless road, I like this due to that it's somewhat of a controlled condition. I do usually a 100mile ride, and hold a steady speed. anywhere form 40 to 50mpg is an acceptable range
I would also suggest to port the manifold, the stock leaves a lot to be desired, it has sharp corners and causes turbulence, even just rounding out the corners reduces turbulence and help to atomize the gas more efficiently, and can give a slight boost to
HP as well, usually 2 to 5 hp increase, depends upon the efficiency of the porting.
Also suggest to remove
AIS, and make sure there are no air leaks at manifold to head joints, carb to manifold joint, and if AIS removed, a good seal on manifold vacuum port. I use starter fluid since it will detect the smallest of leaks since it is very volatile compared to carb cleaner or wd40
Favoured: 0
