I need some help/advice. I used to read this forum on a very regular basis. Now I have a new job that requires me to be on the road all the time, which limits my computer time. So... if this issue has been addressed recently, I apologize.

My bike starts great, but after just a 1/4 mile, it begins running on one cylinder and backfires heavily. So, I pull it over, turn it off, wiat about a minute, then restart. It then runs well enough to get back out on the road. When it's warmed-up completely, it runs great with no problems whatsoever. This is my ritual I experience pretty much every time I take it out of the garage.

I'm thinking it's sticking valves, as it has run really rich in the past and tends to build a lot of carbon on the plugs and exhaust. I have had issues trying to get the dealer to fix the issue, and they would not help, since I relocated the fuel pump.

It is an '05 with 4000 miles. V&H Longshots. I tried using some Sea Foam in the fuel to clean it up, but it didn't seem to make a difference. I also replaced the stock plugs with Autolites last Spring. I have a new set of stock plugs now, ready to put in (thinking maybe the plugs are the issue).

I wanted to start over with the jetting and get a better air box, so I ordered the Baron BAK.

Any ideas what might be happening and how to fix it, or will the Baron jet kit be the answer to my problems?

It does sound like the stiking valve syndrome. Get seom SEAFOAM form NAPA AUTO PARTS and run some in a tank of gas, then do your jetting and change the plugs and see how that does. For soem that helps, for some only fighting with YAMAHA to get them to fix the heads helps.

The combination of the '05 model and running rich, I'd also say that a sticking valve may be your problem.

Check out this post: http://roadstarclinic.com/component/option,com_simpleboard/Itemid,/func,view/catid,49/id,900/#900

There has also been a lot of dicussions on the R* Riders Forum regarding this problem.

Do a shock treatment and then lean out the carb.

Better yet, put the fuel pump back to stock and have another 'discussion' with the dealer. It seems like your bike would still be under warrenty (5K). Better yet, switch dealers as it sounds like this dealer is a dick.

The BAK + jet kit is a good direction to go but try the above before you put the BAK on as he'll have another reason to brush you off.

Doc

Thank-you for your input.

I spoke with supposedly the "best metric mechanic" in the area at a local bike shop. He said it was most likely the Autolite plugs I was running. He recommended installing NGk plugs (stock) and see if it isn't better. So, I changed the oil (used chrome K&N filter and a oil he recommended, Castrol Act-Evo), changed the plugs, and took it out for a spin. It seemed to run better, smoother, and cleaner than it ever has!!! So, I'm happy for now. I think I will put the fuel pump back to stock, just in case the problem comes back.

Thank-you, again!!

Interesting 'solution' by your mechanic.

I'm running Autolite 4164 plugs gapped at 0.32. There are a lot of riders using this plug and some believe that it's a better plug than stock. I've used them this season and have noticed no difference than the NGK or Bosch plugs.

Hoping the best for you but I suspect it's running better as the plugs are not yet fouled.

Doc

Tbone,

I had this same problem with my 04 midnight star. I did all the things that were suggested with a Baron's rejetting kit, ran Seafoam in both upper and bottom end. Ended up removing cylinder head covers and removing plugs in both cylinders and then spinning the engine with the starter. Had only 60lbs of compression on the front cylinder and 150 on the back. Went ahead and pulled rocker plates and heads. Had real bad carbon buildup on both front cylinder intakes. Took both heads to an area machine shop and 6 of the eight valves were leaking. The only two that were still sealing were the exhaust valves of the rear cylinder. Just got it back together a couple of days ago and it runs better than it has since I bought it new last year. The only thing I can think of that cause this was when I first bought it there was a real bad knock in the valve train and I took it back to my dealer twice. My theory is they tighten the valves to tight to get rid of the noise and subsquently caused the valves to leak. I did this job myself and cost me about $250 for the gaskets and machine shop.

Hope this helps,
llynch2503

DocShadow wrote:
Interesting 'solution' by your mechanic.

I'm running Autolite 4164 plugs gapped at 0.32. There are a lot of riders using this plug and some believe that it's a better plug than stock. I've used them this season and have noticed no difference than the NGK or Bosch plugs.

Hoping the best for you but I suspect it's running better as the plugs are not yet fouled.

Doci agree, don't think autolites are the problem. i run 'em all the time.

Well, the problem did reoccur a week later, so I don't think it was the Autolites, either. I think I found a dealer that will help, though. It's an hour and a half away (far in this cold weather), but the mechanic there said it sounds like a sticking valve. He gave me a bottle of Ringfree to run a tank through. He said if it gets better, then returns after the ringfree is out, it has to be sticking valves and they will replace the stock springs with the high performance springs under warranty. He said Yamaha has acnowledged this issue, and they have already done this to a few '04-'05 R*s.

I don't know how to check the compression for leaking valves. Is there a website I could go to to tell me how? I would be curious to check that before taking my bike to the dealer 1 1/2 hours away.

Thanks!!!

Sounds like you are making progress.

If you have an manual, page 3-18 to 3-20 will describe how to do a compression test.

The procedure is the same for the 1600 and 1700 but the values will be different. Just make sure the values for front and rear are fairly close.

Here's a link to a tester http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=4317

SDoc

Check the oil level.I just figured this out after about a year with my 2004 doing the same way.Ride bike then come back and park it for about 15 min. then check oil level. See if its high up on dip stick.I drained about a qrt. out of my bike and instantly it ran perfect.To much oil flooding the back cylinder through the oil tank vent hose.Yamaha has a bulletin out on this with 2004-05's.<br><br>Post edited by: ROADHARD, at: 2005/11/16 20:57