Thanks for the assist. That setup works well. I am hoping my low end tq will come back after the 2 into 1 exhaust is installed. Anyone have an idea of the performance from the Roadburner Velocity Pro ??

http://www.phatperformanceparts.com/merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=62-1822

It's a bit pricey ...

Hi Doc,

04 RS
V&H pro-pipe HP baffle and Billet end cap
Dyna 3000 36A
BAK
AIS removed
172.5
5th clip
Ported manifold-Baron's
PMS 2 1/4
#35 pilot jet

Santa Cruz, CA
I ride all different elevations - from sea level to 4,000 feet
I feel like I am a little rich, although the bike runs great.
Should I go down to a 170 or 167.5?
Can I change the main jet without removing the carb?

Thanks,
Dave

ps I got the billet end cap to fit right by reshaping the damaged pipe and am experimenting with wire and screen. Also filled the stock holes for the baffle with J-B Weld. Put the weld in the holes and the put masking tape on the inside and outside as sort of a mold and when the weld started to set up used my finger to knead and smooth out the tape and weld - came out great.

Not Doc but I would say you're rich on the main and needle. Leave it on the 5th groove and try the 170 or 167.5 and do the WOT. If it's good then go to the 4th groove and tweak from there. My 2 cents anywho.<br><br>Post edited by: Musky, at: 2007/08/10 20:03

Thanks Musky,

I will probably try that tonight. How long should that take? And is there anything I should watch out for? Is there a picture of the needle with all the parts installed anywhere?

Thanks,
Dave

Here is the how to on the WOT - http://roadstarclinic.com/content/view/94/96/

If you have the allen head bolts on the float bowl you shouldn't have to take the carb off to change the main. I don't anywho. You will need to pull the gas tank to mess with the needle. Don't know of any pics but it should be washer, clip, white spacer, washer. Did you do the jetting on your bike or did it come that way? If you've done it before it shouldn't take long.

This will give you some help - http://roadstarclinic.com/content/view/60/96/<br><br>Post edited by: Musky, at: 2007/08/10 21:16

Musky's got you covered.

You will find the bike will tolerate running rich.

With the ProPipe, BAK and Nemesis manifold I ran a 170, 35 and 4th clip as a similar elevation. If you run up to 4000' you may even find the 167.5 and 3.5 on the clip will be OK.

Doc

Thanks Team,
A team has a purpose and works together so that everyon wins! I have finished and road tested high and low speed, and WOT and so far everything is good, idle is up, and - hard to tell because it ran great before - but I think it may run a little better - now to start checking the mileage. However now I have 2 questions -
1. I read Mr. Tidy before I did it and he said NO WASHER under the clip - Do I need the washer or not?
2. How do you get a half - Doc mentioned 3 1/2?

And Doc - The holes I was filling were the holes in the megaphone that were left from the screws that held in the stock baffle - the JB Weld worked great and since it is grey you can hardly notice it (especially with all the road rash).

Thanks for all the help - I could not have done it without your support - I have been thinking about doing it for over a year and finally did it!

Dave

Good to hear it's working out for you.

The sequence on the needle from the top (the blunt end) is:

- washer - any small washer will do
- clip
- white plastic spacer
- washer - they come in different colours but the silver is 1/2 clip width.

Normally the above sequence is referred to as a whole number .... for example: 3rd clip is the clip on the 3rd groove from the top.

To get 3 1/2, put the clip in the 3rd groove and add two silver washers under the spacer.

When you change the needle setting you should re-adjust the PMS at the point for max revs.

Doc

1. I read Mr. Tidy before I did it and he said NO WASHER under the clip - Do I need the washer or not?

A washer equals moving half a groove. So if you leave the washer out you are a half step leaner. The standard setup has a washer under the White spacer so when someone gives you jetting advice it will be with the assumption that you have a washer there. So do you &quot;need&quot; a washer there? Nope. But it's alot easier if we all start from a given point.

Doc,
Please explain adjusting PMS to max RPM. I adjusted the idle (using the idle adjustment cable assembly) to 950 and left the PMS at 2 1/4. I have wrenched on autos and bikes since I was 12 and am quite familiar with adjusting the idle mixture screw to max RPM and later on, (Because of the Govt.)leaning it slightly (or not!). However I have not found the PMS to have much effect on my Roadstar idle RPM-or certainly not like my experience with other engines-and have always been confused by that. What I have done is to adjust and then ride and see how it runs at idle in first gear. If it pulls smoothly and does not load up then I assume I am close. Once when I got it back from the Dealer they had adjusted it to around 4 turns and I could not even ride at low speed (I was teaching my daughter how to ride) and immediately leaned it out. Any explanation for that adjust the PMS for max RPM or did I misunderstand your post?
Thanks,
Dave
PS I am using my daughters laptop because I am cleaning up my desktop and installing a new hard drive. Hope to finish that tomorrow.