Hey everyone, I've got an 05 roadie with freedom duals and an aftermarket air intake installed on my bike. Since putting these mods on here i have lost alot of power. It idles fine and runs fairly smooth but i do not have the get up and go i used too. I was getting very poor gas mileage but since adjust PMS i have gotten back up to probably mid 30's. Bike was supposedly jetted when i bought it and it had Longshots and stock breather. I am not very knowledgeable at carbs or jetting (just throwing that out there). I plan on buying a a jet kit so i can start all over and know what i have. Most guys say they get 40+mpg on their roadies and i have never got that even when i bought it. I want my power back and some descent fuel economy. Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks

Starting from scratch with new stuff, is the best way to get folks to help out(they know what your using that way). Make sure and document as close as possible what was in the carb, when you take it apart.
Find out what the existing main is, and if the stock needle has been changed, what groove the clip is in, and how many grooves the needle has(the stock needle only has a single groove, on bikes sold new in the US).
The smart guys will want to know what kit your using as well. I went with the Barons kit, because they use the Mikuni jets. I switched to the Barons needle, because the old needle I had, while it did have six grooves, was slightly thinner.
You said you adjusted the PMS, is it still the stock screw, or is there something like the PMS adjustable one from Barons? The knob makes the adjustments a lot easier.
It's really pretty straight forward. Just pay attention to what your doing, to avoid messing with the float(unless you ditch the fuel pump), and or not getting things put back together properly.
Does the bike still have the AIS connected? It'd be good to get rid of it as well at this time, if so(Barons sells a kit for this as well).

Check the little white cover on the "coasting enricher" while your working on the carb. If its cracked replace it. It causes a vacuum leak otherwise.

So Barons is a good kit? Yes AIS is still on there. The PMS is the stock screw. I've wanted to get one of those knobs just for this purpose. Do you recommend a particular one of those? So basically buy a jet kit / intall it / put it together and test ride. If i dont like the way it runs take it apart and change the main position and try again.

Good advice so far with the jet kit and PMS screw. You are at 1324 ft above sea level so you could run the Mikuni 172.5 main, 35 pilot, Barons needle with the clip on 3 from the top with the white spacer and two silver washers under the spacer. Set the PMS two turns out ride the bike for 15 minutes then turn the PMS in till the engine stumbles and misses then slowly turn it out until it smooths out. Ride for a while and see what you get you may have to tweak the PMS screw 1/8 of a turn in or out until you find the sweet spot.

Goose.USMC wrote:
So Barons is a good kit? Yes AIS is still on there. The PMS is the stock screw. I've wanted to get one of those knobs just for this purpose. Do you recommend a particular one of those? So basically buy a jet kit / intall it / put it together and test ride. If i dont like the way it runs take it apart and change the main position and try again.

I ordered all three from Barons(AIS kit, Barons jet kit, and the PMS screw). You won't need the drill bit and screw that come with the kit, because your's is already drilled for access to the PMS.
I think the AIS removal on your bike is easier then on my 01 also, but I'm not completely sure. My fittings in the jugs, were press fit, and had to be driven out with a long screw driver and a hammer(sounds worse then it was). I know that on the later bikes, they changed this to covers that simply block the holes. Not sure when that happened.

Buy the kit. Give a thorough run down of just whats on the bike. Type of pipes, Air box(any mods like extra holes, brand of free flowing kit etc.), no AIS(when that happens), and then you can get started.
Put a new air filter on the bike, and change the plugs while your at it. Try and remove as many variables as possible. You may even want to buy some starting fluid(ether), and spray some around the intake manifold before removing the carb, when the bike is running, to make sure you don't have any leaks. If you do, the bikes idle will surge from the ether getting into the system. If there's a leak around the manifold, now's a great time to fix it.

I'm not as versed in this as many, but the advice will probably run along the lines of 170 main, needle in the fourth groove from the top or blunt end(make sure that the stock washers get back on the new needle. From the pointy end, it should be, silver washer, white plastic spacer, clip, washer, spring). Lightly turn the PMS in until it just seats, and back it out about 2.5 turns.
You'll want to do the WOT test first(Tech Article page) to make sure the main is correct), and then you can began tweaking the clip on the needle, and PMS adjustment(its good for the bike to be idling close to 900 rpm's, when doing the PMS adjustments).
It's best if its nice and warm outside, and the bike needs to be well warmed up, to get the best adjustments on the PMS.
This will be a great starting place. After that, and even before you start, read as much as you can in the Tech Articles section(Tab at the top of the page) about what your going to do, and how the bike may act.
If you encounter difficulties, post em up on this thread, and people will offer input.
Good luck.

Gordon

Oh Yeah! I almost forgot always follow Curts, Erbman's, the two Scotts(Texas and the other one) and most any one else's advice before mine.

Here is a good starting point

http://roadstarclinic.com/component/option,com_fireboard/Itemid,187/func,view/id,147240/catid,12/

Hey Goose, an alternative to the AIS kit from Barons is a couple of .45 casings, brass or nickle will work. Just read the tech article http://roadstarclinic.com/content/view/47/105/ and you will be good to go.

Rod

Here's some reading material to get your mind right. Read what applies.

http://weislake.com/sig/mucker/carb/carbindex.htm

That ether is a great idea for checking leaks. Used that alot years ago to start older tractors. Thanks for the advice, i think i've got a good idea how to fix my issue. Thanks for the extra detail Curt. Mechanically challenged people like myself need that. I love this forum, always helpful.

What exactly do you gain by removing the AIS?

Semper Fi

Goose.USMC wrote:
That ether is a great idea for checking leaks. Used that alot years ago to start older tractors. Thanks for the advice, i think i've got a good idea how to fix my issue. Thanks for the extra detail Curt. Mechanically challenged people like myself need that. I love this forum, always helpful.

What exactly do you gain by removing the AIS?

Semper Fi

Cleans up the motors looks. Gets some more air to the cylinders, because it sits right in front. One less thing to cause a problem later on. With after market exhaust, you'll get some popping in the exhaust on deceleration as it pumps fresh air into the exhaust, to help burn any unburned fuel exiting the cylinders at that point.