RK the rpms will go up if there is a leak around the manifold. There now you can stop pouting

I think you've fixed it with all you've done. Have a good ride tomorrow.

Greysnake wrote:
RK the rpms will go up if there is a leak around the manifold. There now you can stop pouting

I think you've fixed it with all you've done. Have a good ride tomorrow.

THANK YOU! Greysnake, you da man...even though I don't need the info anymore.

Actually, I still wanted to know, just in case I need it for the future. I thought it would be an increase, just made sense. I wonder why mine was doing the opposite? Guess I had a good seal after all. Well, now I have a better one!

And for the record, I wasn't pouting. I was grumping. Big difference. Kinda.

RK

Greysnake wrote:
RK the rpms will go up if there is a leak around the manifold. There now you can stop pouting

I think you've fixed it with all you've done. Have a good ride tomorrow.


Just a thought.

If the bike is idling fine for the most part, and more of a combustible material is added to the mix(ie thru an air leak), the motor would experience a rich air/fuel mix, and probably stumble. At idle, without the throttle plate opening some, there wouldn't be extra air.
I know, that a carbed car that is having a fuel supply issue, will run just with spraying wd-40 into the carb. This would be an example of a serious lean condition where the vehicle isn't idling because it isn't getting any gas at all.
With the bike, it is already getting fuel(and idling), and extra would cause a super rich condition, and more then likely a stumble or drop in idle......no?

I use to assumed(based on car carbs, and the expected reaction from a combustible mix), that more fuel would cause an increase. I think the throttle plate restricting the airflow, makes a difference with our CV carbs. There isn't more air to accompany the added fuel.

Espressodude had a bad leak around one of his manifold flanges, and when he sprayed the problem area with a flammable material, the bike died. I've seen it in several other threads as well where the idle stumbled and decreased, instead of increasing.

Just my opinion(always subject to destructive criticism ), but if everything is neat and tight, I would think the idle wouldn't, shouldn't go up, or down.

If the mixture, even with a leak, was still excessively rich, the addition of the other flammable would be diluting the air charge, and causing the RPM to droop. If the mixture was almost too lean to idle, it would increase some with additional flammable fuel, as more energy is directed onto the top of the pistions,due to more combustible mixture and more expanding gasses from the ignition.

It's not unheard of to kill a motor on this check. I've had it happen a few times. Still indicates a leak, increase or decrease, unless you are spraying the filter, and screwing up the ratio that way.

Well, I took the manifold off & redid the seal, still with the same o-rings, and changed the needle from 3.5 to 4 from the blunt end. Before I did that, I did the WOT test and the DJ 175 was just too lean, so I went back to the DJ 190.

Here's how I ended up: DJ 190 main; stock 35 pilot; DJ needle on 4th groove; PMS 2.75 out; accel pump screw turned off (nut flipped)

Starts with the enricher, and I can turn it off after about 2 miles. Purrs like a LOUD kitten, very smooth transition from idle to rolling on the throttle, no hesitation whatsoever, no more bucking or lurching or carb farts. And no more smell of unburned gas like when I had the 37.5 pilot in. Runs really, really well. FINALLY.

Thanks to everyone for all their input! I think ultimately the problem I had was a bad seal on the manifold, but with that fixed all is well!

RK

i like a happy ending

congrats on a happy ending