Re:PMS setting (1 viewing) (1) Guest
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TOPIC: Re:PMS setting
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sdnees (User)
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Posts: 6
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PMS setting 4 Years, 4 Months ago
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I have a 2003 Roadstar mods are:
DG Hard Krome 3-1/2" slash cut slip-ons that have been sealed (no leaks)
Cobra jet kit 165 main, needle 4th groove
Pilot jet 37.5
Dyna 3000 (set at 5000 rpm, 36A advance)
AIS removed and pluged
Hyper Charger
Intake manifold Ported (did myself)
PMS screw is 1-1/2 turns out
My question is can you set the PMS screw in to far? When I ported the manifold I jetted the carb, and set the screw at 2-3/4 out, went for a ride and the bike seemed like it was running rich. Got home and started to adjust the PMS screw with the bike running and it started running smoother the farther I turned the screw in till it finally bottomed out ( the engine never did falter). I didn't think this would be right so I backed out to 1-1/2 turns out and went for a ride and it seems to be OK. Could the PMS screw still need to be in more?
Thanks for the help
Steve
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Re:PMS setting 4 Years, 4 Months ago
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When you turn the PMS in, there should be a point where it should start to 'stumble'. If not, I'd go to 4.5 on the needle and try again to dial in the PMS.
Doc
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sdnees (User)
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Re:PMS setting 4 Years, 4 Months ago
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I'll give 4.5 on the needle a try and see what happens.
Steve
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sdnees (User)
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Re:PMS setting 4 Years, 3 Months ago
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Doc
I'm at 4-1/2 on the needle and the engine stumbles just as the pms screw hits bottom. The bike seems to run good and the pms screws is only about 1-1/4 turn out. I think it is still rich when it sets and idles for a few minutes it puffs black smoke, and when you are at real slow speed idling in first gear it is real jerky. I had been getting around 47-50mpg before I ported the manifold now I am around 43mpg. What do you think my next step should be?
Thanks for the help
Steve
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Re:PMS setting 4 Years, 3 Months ago
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There's numerous ways to tell if it's still rich but the easy way is if the bike is cold and it start's without a choke, it's stil too rich. You should need to choke it to start it and then, depending on the air temp, be able to push it halfway within 30 sec (65-70 degrees temp) and all the way within a few blocks.
While the choke is in, it will blow a little black smoke. If it puffs black smoke after it is warmed up then it's too rich and you need to move the clip up.
Remember move clip up to lean, down to richen. When you're moving the clip up and down, the needle is positioned so the slots are at the top (the same way the needle goes into the carb).
Now that you have moved only the clip (4 to 4.5) did it run better or worse? If it's worse then move the clip the other way; from 4 to 3.5.
Doc
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Pharmr (User)
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Re:PMS setting 4 Years, 3 Months ago
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without changing out your pipes, you'll probably be fine on your main jet and be able to adjust things with your PMS...I had the HK slip-ons and they sounded great...but my `02 really didnt start breathing until I got a full set of after market pipes...the stock headers are whats really restricting the air flow at this point on your bike...if it's running well for you with the PMS at 1.25 turns out, then I'd just leave it there....have you tried a WOT test??...and what type of gas mileage are you getting???
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Re:PMS setting 4 Years, 3 Months ago
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"till it finally bottomed out ( the engine never did falter). "
It should have -- look for an air leak by spraying WD40 around the intake manifold flanges and then check for proper jetting for the Hyper Charger -- they normally come with a 205 main jet which is way too rich. Most guys I've read of are using a 195DJ or a 172.5 or 175 Mikuni main.
Also 36A advance -- way too much advance for stock block engine. Knock that back to 32A (closest to stock) and see what difference that makes.
TM1602
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