The bike should run okay, as long as the PMS is out far enough. You could even run the bike with it out as far as 3 1/2 turns. You may want to try it.
Once you get it so its running fine, then you can start the tweaking.
I turned mine in from about 3 1/4 turns to start, to the 1 3/4 or 1 7/8 turns out where it is now, over a period of several months(I didn't have the E-Z Tach right off). It ran fine even at the 3 1/4 turns out. I'd ride it for a few weeks, and then one day after coming home from running errands on the scooter, I'd adjust the idle up, and turn the PMS in a bit more, and then set the idle back down and try it for awhile. Some people haven't been able to get their bikes to run right around 2 turns. Some have theirs set out beyond 3 turns.
To properly warm the bike up, you should ride it aggressively for 10 or 15 miles at least. Then adjust the idle. After the idle is where it needs to be, you can very slowly turn the PMS in to where you hear the idle start to stumble. Don't turn it in to quickly, and pause to listen to make sure that when you do hear the stumble, its a real lean stumble, and not just the normal slightly irregular heartbeat of a Roadie.

When you do hear the stumble, back the PMS out about 1/4 turn, button it up and try it.

SKWEARpeg, which EZ-Tach did you buy? The Plus or the cheaper one?
Denny

dennyo2 wrote:
SKWEARpeg, which EZ-Tach did you buy? The Plus or the cheaper one?
Denny

I'll give a look tomorrow, it wasn't more then about $55.00 though. I got it from re-stockit.com????

The model on mine is ES325. The package just says EZ-TACH ....etc.

When I was looking, there were several different places that sold this same item, and restockit.com was the cheapest price....but since I live in Florida, I payed sales tax, so it ended up being about the same the same. I had it in 3 days.

Well I've been tinkering around with my jetting a now have the clip se on 3 groove, spacer, no washer. PMS
was at 2 turns. Starts out good, mid range good high range good. Went riding on the highway for about 2 hours
and it runs better than it ever did. Gearing down from about 50 mph for a stop light noticed a slight amount of
popping. Starting off it coughed a little at take off. I pulled over and re adjusted the idle and cough went away. It still pops a little during deceleration. I got home and adjusted the PMS about 1/4 of a turn and will try it again later, its awfully hot out right now. I noticed a slight gas smell but that is probably because I vented the carb. bowl to the outside instead of back into the air kit. I thinking I'm getting close.
Denny

The 182.5 mikuni main jet is what is allowing you to run the needle in the 3rd, without a washer under the spacer.
Just guessing, I'd say that with the clip in the 4th, it was allowing fuel to be pulled through the main circuit before it was time, and was creating a rich situation in the idle and mid when it was sluggish.
By moving the clip up...therefore the needle down, you plugged the hole.
If you ever do get a 172.5 mikuni main(its just a frog hair smaller then the 185DJ main), you can put the silver washer back under the white spacer.

SKWEARpeg,
I'm sorry I meant the fourth groove.
Denny

dennyo2 wrote:
SKWEARpeg,
I'm sorry I meant the fourth groove.
Denny

That's better. The principle and results would still apply. Did you try it with a single washer under the spacer in the 3rd? Just curious

You have basically duplicated a clip in the 3rd with 2 silver washer where you are now. Removing the washer, made it a half step leaner. I'm not sure how critical the washer is to the whole operation....ie is the metal surface between the spacer and the seat in the slide needed???.

I tried it with a single washer. Hard to start, coughing real bad, backfiring.Two washers was better but the
fourth groove it runs a lot better.
Denny

I figured out how to post pictures, Who said you cant teach old dogs new tricks.
Also I might add I changed my crankcase breather to Curt's style, more chrome.
Denny