I recently added Baron's BAK and PMS thumbscrew (and removed AIS but that does not relate to this). Per Baron's recommendation, based on stock exhaust drilled to stage 1, the mains are 170, PMS 2 1/4, needle clip - 4. I have put 500 miles on my Star since all this. I am pulling the plugs today. The plugs only had about 200 miles on them prior to these changes. I have the previous set of plugs.
1. What should the plugs look like if all is set correctly?
2. What should they not look like and what does it mean?

I fine tuned the PMS by driving in high RPM then hard decel (started at PMS 2 1/2 moved to 2 1/4), listening for backfire. I never heard it backfire, but when doing a low RPM decel I hear an occasional popping, like bubblegum bubble bursting, is this normal?

I was getting 38 MPG just before the BAK and now I have been getting 41 MPG.

Here's a guide to reading plugs. - Spark plugs. Your settings don't sound too far off so I wouldn't change things based soley on the plugs. Plus the plugs will only tell you what was going on at the rpm level the motor was at when you shut it down. If you just got done rolling along at 20 mph and then stopped and shut it down it won't indicate rich or lean for the needle or main. My .00006 cents anywho.

Thanks Musky...what is the best way to determine the best settings of the carb? I have read so many different things, from running at high RPM and pulling in the clutch then shut the motor off, then checking the plugs (I am not big on doing maintenance on the side of the road ) to idleing at 900 rpm, leaning it till it runs rough then enriching it till it runs rough and then setting for the mid way point. I don't want to run too lean or too rich. Is a dyno the best way?

The best way is a dyno run. But only if the person running the dyno knows how to use it and maintains it correctly. Plugs are part of it. Mileage is another. The WOT won't tell you about a too rich main but you can try smaller mains until it indicates you went too far. The needle is mostly on 4 or 3.5. Try them both and see. It's trial and error tweaking. But only change one thing at a time and ride it for a while before you change anything else.

you could do what i'm doing. i just picked up a K&N air/fuel ratio gauge. on the front cylinder header about 10 inch down from the head I have to drill into the pipe and weld on a bung. to put an O2 sensor. when i start it up it will tell me if me every thing from being to rich or lean and i would make my adjustment from there. i can leave it on all the time so if my going down the road. and it changes from grean to red i know something is wrong. also if i didnt want to leave it on i remove the 02 sensor and put in a plug to cap off the bung. the unit coast me 286 for the gauge and 15 bucks for the wled on bung fitting. im going to try it out once i get the header drilled and welded. on double wall headers you would need to cut a larger hole in the outer wall then drill for the o2 in the inner piper then weld in the bung. I have cobra drag pipe they just have clamp on heat sheilds witch suck at hiding blueing.

Hey speedy ...I guess you can buy a 2nd bung to weld on the rear pipe as well since the rear cylinder seems to be the one carboning up mostly or at least my rear plug is always darker than my front anywho keep us posted on how it works out I would be very interested ahhh and post a link for the manufacturer if you dont mind..thanks....Coug

i got my a/f ratio gauge from jegs high performance, also they have them in summit racing. i got the K&N one there is others some cheaper and some more then i could afford.