What do I need to change if my bike starts cold without choke?

what kind of set up do you have? is it stock.... if you can start without the choke.. I'd consider going in on the PMS since that should be the only circut running at start up (don't twist the throttle before or during starting) ~Guido

If it's very warm outside you may be on the cusp otherwise ..... it depends.

The carb circuits bleed into one another so if you're rich in one cicruit it affects the other.

Post your settings and we may be able to help you out.

Check the float level. Try the WOT test to see if you're lean enough.

I thought you had it all worked out?

Doc

06 r*, 175 DJ main, 4th clip on the needle, pms @ 3.25, K&N filter in stock box, HK sideburners. Just checked the plugs front and back.....they are black, black.
I cleaned my exhaust pipe opening yesterday and it is black again after a 100 mile ride highway and country roads. WOT test shows very little change in accleration when I let off to 1/8 throttle. When I give the throttle a good twist 10 - 15 seconds after startup.....no choke......I get a puff of black smoke.
I put my hand in front of the exhaust end and cranked the throttle and I get a bit of black damp spatter. I think the float is out but I am scared to scr*w it up further. Is this easy to correct or should I take it to a shop?

Thanks
Topher

Post edited by: Topher, at: 2006/06/12 19:39<br><br>Post edited by: Topher, at: 2006/06/12 19:54

Except for the PMS, your setup doesn't 'yell out' rich. When you first start it up you'll get a bit of condensation.

A high float level is a good guess.

The floats a bit of a pain as sometines you have to do take the carb apart a few times but it's not hard.

I find it's easier to take the carb off the bike and do it on the bench. Either on or off the bike make sure to level the carb.

For the 06, the gas level should be even with the bowl mating surface.

The process is in the manual or get back to me and I'll explain.

Doc

Doc,

Could you please explain procedure.

MEASURING AND ADJUSTING THE FUEL LEVEL

1.a. Place the motorcycle on a stand so that the motorcycle (carb) is level.
1.b.Alternatively, take the carb off the bike and put the carb in a vise (gently) and level the float bowl. You'll have hook up a source of liquid (water or gas) to the gas inlet of the carb. I usually use an old turkey baster. (Yes, you'll need 4 hands )
2. Get a piece of clear plastic tubing and slip it on the fuel drain pipe (it comes out the bottom of the carb and makes a sharp bend.
3. Place the tubing vertically alongside the fuel bowl so that the top of the tubing is higher than the fuel bowl mating surface.
4. Loosen the fuel drain bolt. Fuel will fill up the tubing and run up the tubing to the level that the fluid is in the bowl. The meniscus of the fluid in the tubing should be level with the fuel bowl mating surface.

If not to spec, then you need to adjust the float:
1. Drain the fuel bowl
2. Take the fuel bowl off
3. Inspect the needle valve and valve seat (could be worn or dirty)
4. Adjust the float level by slightly bending the float tang
5. Re-assemble
6. Measure the fuel level again
7. Repeat until the fuel level is within spec

Here's some reference pics http://roadstarclinic.com/content/view/163/96/

Hopefully I haven't forgotten anything.

Doc

I am new to the forum and wanted to say HELLO!

Also, I have the same issue w/ my 05 R* and after reading this thread, I would appreciate some help with a few questions.

Doc, where on the carb do you ck the float level? w/ the bike level and the carb mounted on the manifold the mating surface is lower in the front (air cleaner side) and slanted down from back to front on the sides. So where you ref will effect the level.

Also, In the Clymer book I have, it says 4mm to 5mm above the mating surface (they dont say where to ref either). Is this right? Or does the level need to change when you start installing air kits, dif jets, needles, pipes etc.??

Thanks and good to meet you!

Hey Doc,

Firstly, thanks for taking the time to write out the routine for checking float levels. I took out the carb and checked everything out and the float was within spec. Feeling frustrated I decided to take out the DJ Pilot and go back to stock.
Took her out and she was hesitating. Moved the clip down from 3rd to 4th.
Tried again and I was smilin' down the highway as I cranked the throttle.
With respect to the choke issue...........waited around 3 hours for the bike to cool down ( 75F today ), started it up and I definitely needed the choke.
It is amazing how the circuits overlap and one minor adjustment can make such as difference. Thanks again for all your help over the past few weeks. Its been a frustrating journey learning these carbs, but I am proud to say that I tune my bike.

Cheers
Topher

DJ wrote:
Doc, where on the carb do you ck the float level? w/ the bike level and the carb mounted on the manifold the mating surface is lower in the front (air cleaner side) and slanted down from back to front on the sides. So where you ref will effect the level.

Also, In the Clymer book I have, it says 4mm to 5mm above the mating surface (they dont say where to ref either). Is this right? Or does the level need to change when you start installing air kits, dif jets, needles, pipes etc.??

DJ,

That's another reason I take the carb off the bike. If the carb is not level I have no idea to where the level should be measured. You'll usually hear 'back of the manifold, intake side'.

For 05, the level should be at the mating surface or no more than 1 mm above. For the 99-03 it's 2-3 mm. I don't know where they got 4-5 mm.

Doc