Making a long story short......I have a 1700 with a velocity stack and DD's pipes. Went through all possible jetting combo's in the Barons kit nothing worked. In frustration I put the carb back to stock and it ran perfectly! Yea, stock carb and a velocity stack.

The problem I have now a few tanks of fuel later is..... Today it is supposed to be in the mid 80's this afternoon. Great day to ride my "custom" road star. Well, i push it out the garage and fire it up. Get my helmet and gloves on and ride out of the development. Apply the throttle to pull out and BANG BANG, POW! Bike shuts down and won't start back up. Had to push it home. Got back in the garage and it made a gutless attempt at starting but only fired on one cyl. It has been doing this recently but once you ride it a mile or so it idles and runs just fine. It seems like when I went back to stock jetting everything was fine but it has been progressivly getting worse to the point now where it wouldn't even re-start. Sounds like SVS but I have an open air system and stock carb settings!

It's just a bear to warm up. Starts fine but then after a block or two the bike caughs and sputters and if you stop it wont ide at all. Then a mile away it runs just fine, if it will re-start.

Please any help would be very much appriciated.

Read this and start your jetting with getting the idle and starting right. You may need a bigger pilot jet with your setup. Once you get the idle right move to the needle and get it set to your staisfaction. Then you can move to the main jet it has the least effect on the range you run in so play with it to get your top speed. It does sound like SVS and the way I finaly got rid of mine was to pull the pipes off and spray RingFree, Seafoam, or Deepcreep which is a spray version of SeaFoam into the exhaust ports coating everything until it runs out You can even spay it in the carb with the bike running until it dies before you remove the pipes. Stuff a rag in the ports and let it sit for a day. Put the pipes back on and add the recomended treatment to a tank of gas. Run the crap out of it as hard as you can for that tank of gas then change the oil. After that you should be good to go I wouldn't mess with the jetting until you have done all the treatment and BTW change your plugs. Good luck man I know this works I did it and finally got rid of mine now it runs great.
http://baronscustom.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1344&sid=17a72af2ef6fd5caa4d402fe139fba9a

Thanks for the info blackice. It just seems crazy that I would have carbon built up with such a "lean" air/fuel setup. I've been riding and working on bikes for 15 years and I've never had such an issue with jetting, svs, and plain lack of performance on such a tempramental bike. Ok, a little ringfree here and there I can understand but pouring into my carb and ports........sounds like something you had to do on Harleys back in the 70's. lol.

Like I said, it sarts fine and runs fine when it's warm. Just that inbetween cold and warm it spits and sputs and today completely shut down never to start again.

Does any of this add up. Just seems crazy. A lean bike should not have carbon built up and why does it start ok and then run ok when it's warm?

Thanks again

Bill

The stock setup with the Mikuni 182.5 is not lean ..... it's way too rich. The bikes will run well if on the rich side but you're only asking for carbon buildup by doing so.

I'd recommend the upper end treatments as Curt suggested and once you get it cleaned out try rejetting again, otherwise you will continually run into this problem.

It starts OK as things haven't warm up. Once warm clearances decrease and the valve starts to stick. When really hot the clearances are again large.

Doc

Thanks for the info Doc. What you said all makes sense to me but you said the 182.5 is too rich. Correct me if I'm wrong but, when giving more air to the carb you would need to richen your fuel. Why would you want to lean your jetting after giving your engine more air. Is the mixture controled more by the needle in the jet kit? The jets in the jet kit were all in the 170's.

So would it work if I would just lean out the main jet. I say this because the barons kit had things all messed up. I tried all the jets, all the clips and turned the pms in and out and the accel. pump in and out and nothing worked as good as going back to the stock jetting......until now.

Thanks again guys, this is really frustrating for me.

Doc, is right to rich...

more air flow draws more fuel..

I have dyno jets and using a 180dj main with the stock pilot 35, just a little lean on the low end but want to get it on the dyno before I do anymore changes as it runs good, should have it on the dyno this friday to check the settings trying to get as close to perfect as I can. I also have to remove the AIS which I have been to lazy to do.

The stock main and needle are a combo. Aftermarket needles have a different profile, generally being thinner overall. This results in more fuel passing though the jet for an equivalent throttle position ... which means you need to lean out the main jet.

Normally for aftermarket pipes and air cleaner we recommend a Mikuni 170 and the stock 35 pilot. If you were try this with the stock needle your bike would choke.

Doc

solanabeacher first you have to get all the carbon cleaned off that upper end otherwise you will rejet and run good for a while then start to run crappy again and you will try and rejet around it and that will happen over and over. The longer it goes the worse it gets. Once you get the carbon out you can jet properly with a clean engine and get it right a lot sooner. Beleave me I have been thru this very same thing as I have an 05 and they are the worst for it. The dealer never could get it jetted right in 5 tries, and it all started at 3000 miles. The rear cylinder was fouled so bad it wouldn't even start at 3000 miles.

Allrighty. I did the carbon treatment and ran the piss out of my bike for the last week or so. Still running rich as per jet black spark plugs. Looked like the plugs in my 2 stroke dirt bike.

What I did was put the barons needle back in and put the clip on the 3rd down with the washer under the spacer. Also dropped the main down to the 170 with the pms around 3 turs out. I also backed off on the accel. pump.

My bike now coughs out the carb when pulling out.

Has a dead spot between 1/4 and 3/4 throttle.

Breaks up when wide open, almost like it will choke itself aout before it will even get to the rev limiter.

Backfires bad on decel.

It does idle smooth, thats about all.

Remember, I removed AIS, DD's pipes and Barons velocity stack.

I just can't seem to get it right. Where do I go from here?

Any suggestions?

Bill

I assume the 170 is a Mikuni.

Move the clip to 4 from the top with white spacer and silver washer underneath.

Doc