Since, last weekend, I've been having problems with the bike stalling soon after I start out. I warm up on the choke for 5 min or so (I live in NC so cold is not a big issue yet,) before starting out. Once I push the choke in, I have to add a bit of throttle to keep it running for a while. There is a bit of hesitation when applying throttle for a few miles. The bike will idle real slowly for about 10 to 15 miles but once it has been running for 30 or 40 minuets, it idles fast. I thought it was water in the gas at first because I had recently fueled up and after a 50-mile ride and an night in the building it all started. I have dried it out and have a new tank of fuel in and I'm still getting the same problem. My next try will be spark plugs, because that's about at the top of my mechanical ability and even that will be a bit of a challenge. My next guess would be a fouled carburetor. What resources are there that will help me take it apart, clean it up, and put it back together? Are there any special tools other then screw drivers and Allen wrenches? I need something that is pretty much visual as I'm no &quot;wrench.&quot; By the way, I'm riding an '02 Roadstar Silverado with modified stock pipes (mod by Biker Brackets.)<br><br>Post edited by: paxgunner, at: 2004/10/22 16:01

From my own experience, it sound like you may be running too lean. When I went too lean trying to improve gas mileage, I had the same reaction from my bike.

I moved the clip on the needle kit back down to get more gas and the problem went away.

It has also been my experience that my bike idled too fast after it has run for a while. I dialed the idle down a bit.

Bike runs fine now.

. . . Buzz<br><br>Post edited by: rsmgreg, at: 2004/10/22 16:12

Needle Kit? I'm working with a stock carburetor but the online manual I downloaded just shows me an exploded view, which is great for mechanics but confuses the likes of me. Do you know of any books or web site discussions that have annotated pictures?

At the top is a link to the &quot;Tech Tips&quot; page from where you'll find links to info on the carb.

If you don't find what you need, trying re-posting.

If the bike was running fine and then started to run badly then the first thing to suspect is the gas, especially if you just filled it. You may still have some junk in the float bowl or the needles may be dirty.

Doc

Does sound lean, but it sounds like you did nothing new to the bike, it just started happening all of a sudden? I would check the intake for leaks and/or vacuum tubing for something loose or cracked.

Check your pms screw. They will move on their own from vibration. When you adjust correctly dab small amount of silicone in access hole to keep in place.

Hi! I live in the middle of N.C.as well. I'm having this problem on my 2004 Roadie with only 2000 miles on it.When its cold out,like early morning or night it runs bad and cuts off during the first 1/4 mile.When i do finally get it running it runs good then on ,or on a warm day say 60 degrees &amp; up it runs great. I've put new plugs in her but have not got to ride much this month.The Yamaha dealer doesn't have any suggestions other than carb adjustment.They say turn PMS in 1/2 turn.
The old plugs seem to have alot of carbon on them. Wish I could help. Please let me know if you find a solution to the problem.




Thanks Tim

RH, hello from Jacksonville, NC. Wonder what kind of choke habits you have? Are you choking it on startup and then immediately pushing it back in? Are you leaving the choke out for that 1/4 mile or so or what? Let me know. If you are leaving the choke on too long it could cause the symptoms you describe along with the carbon on the plugs. Give us a little bit more info.

Thanks,

Loy

I use the choke to start the bike and generally ride down to the end of the street before pushing it in (not more then 5 minuets tops.) This is pretty much how I've always done it. Last Saturday I turned the PMS screw out (counter clockwise) one half turn it seems to be doing a little better but still not what I had become used to. I'm going to do the AIS thing this coming Saturday so while I'm at it I may try another quarter turn on the PMS screw. I've haven’t worked up the courage to take the top off of the carburetor yet to see what is in there yet, but that may be my next excursion into the motorcycle motor mystery. Taking the air filter off was a big step. Truly, turning something on the carburetor brought on a cold sweat. OK, all you gear heads can stop laughing…you too were neophytes at one time. At any rate, I certainly appreciate the online help. Pictures would be helpful if any are around.

Ride safe and sober,
Paxgunner

I was really surprised that my new Roadie this last spring needed tweaked but it did. Before I rejetted I tweaked the PMS (was lean from the factory) and the accelerator pump. Go to tech tips for help. I didn't have to go as far on my 04 as many describe with the accelerator pump. Mine definately sputtered on throttle blips or when pulling from a stop. I was able to adjust all of this out. My PMS was out only about 1.5 turns from the factory. I ended up turning out about 3.25 turns. Since rejetting and adding air that's all changed except for the ACC setting. As far as choke goes, I pull mine out a click or so crank and leave. As soon as I leave the culdesac I push it in and cruise out of the neighborhood never leaving 3rd gear (25 mph zone). By the time I get to first stop she is idling great. Have patience and don't change too much at once and you'll have her purring like a kitten. Hope I wasn't to vague in my text. I'm more of a hands on guy.

Loy