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Re:To Lower or Not to Lower (1 viewing) (1) Guest
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TOPIC: Re:To Lower or Not to Lower
#105243
silvasilv (User)
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Re:To Lower or Not to Lower 5 Months, 1 Week ago  
you can attempt it for free for a while if you just do the flip and grind in the tech section of the clinic...otherwise you can pick up adjustable dogbones for about 150 to 200 bux or a new relay arm for a similar price...if you do the flip or any lowering you will maybe need a new spring which can run about 80 bux
 
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#105244
Riobeard (User)
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Re:To Lower or Not to Lower 5 Months, 1 Week ago  
I've heard that the flip and grind can put alot of stress on the shock mount points. I've seen adjustable arms on Ebay for 100 bucks. That is what I plan to try a little later.
 
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#105245
slezy (User)
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Re:To Lower or Not to Lower 5 Months, 1 Week ago  
At 350lbs my bikes a low rider anyhow I hear war l.o.w.r.i.d.e.r
 
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#105258
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Re:To Lower or Not to Lower 5 Months, 1 Week ago  
I did the flip and grind about a year ago and ride every day to work, rain, shine, or snow. The only difference I've noticed is that the board might drag on a sharp turn. I've gotten used to that by riding my inside foot out beyond the board to feel the payment before the grind. That way I don't get the sudden shock of the drag. I know what to expect and when to expect it. My Limited is all stock with the exception of the long shot V&H's and I weight in at 210lbs. The drag rarely occurs now that I know in advance. Lower it. It doesn't have to cost a lot.
 
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#105265
Roadkill1962 (User)
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Re:To Lower or Not to Lower 5 Months, 1 Week ago  
dennyo2 wrote:
Roadkill,
What type of Highway bar are you using? Can you get extensions to raise,
move forward and tilt with Cobra Fatty Bars?
Thanks
Denny


Denny--

That's a Yamaha Big Bar engine guard. If you get the no-tilt extensions that move forward 3", which I had, you need to shim up the front of master cylinder a bit with washers. If you get the ones withe the adjustable angle (usually to 15 degrees), all clears, no problem. I don't know the sweep or pullback of the fatty bars, but I'd bet with the tilt you'd have no problem clearing.

I got mine off eBay, and I can probably find the link if you're interested...

RK
 
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#105266
Scrubber (User)
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Re:To Lower or Not to Lower 5 Months, 1 Week ago  
Do "the flip" yourself, only cost time if you have the tools, try it out, if you don't like it. Reverse, reverse
 
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#105268
Roadkill1962 (User)
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Re:To Lower or Not to Lower 5 Months, 1 Week ago  
stevehorsman wrote:
I have been thinking lately about lowering......does it effect the comfort of the ride alot? The bike is a solo.....and I weigh 165 lbs. I really like the look of the lowered R*

What would I be looking at as far as cost to do this? Ballpark...

Thanks all.........Steve


Steve--

For the flip & grind, $0 out of pocket...just some time, big metric wrenches & a bench grinder is all you really need.

RK
 
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#105280
DocShadow (Admin)
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Re:To Lower or Not to Lower 5 Months, 1 Week ago  
slyguy wrote:
Currently if I go up the driveway with her on the back, we bottom out. Any suggestions on options?

You'll scrape even more.

A heavier spring (900/1000#) helps but the flip is very low. Dogbones may be a compromise for you.

Doc
 
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#105285
Scrubber (User)
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Re:To Lower or Not to Lower 5 Months, 1 Week ago  
Docs right if you have a little cash, you can get the adjustable dog bones to adjust your hieght. You will have to get used to the scrubbage, but you want people to notice the roadie, right?
 
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#105374
dennyo2 (User)
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Re:To Lower or Not to Lower 5 Months, 1 Week ago  
RoadKill,
Yes if you could find the link for the adjustable brackets I would really
appreciate it, also are you doing the flip and grind or adjustable dog bones? Hearing that doing the flip and grind puts stress on the mounting points kind of worries me.
Thanks
Denny
 
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