I'm assuming you are only changing the front.

First open the master cylinder and remove the brake fluid. I used a turkey baster.

Unscrew the banjo bolt at the calipers and put the end of the hose in a tin can. Then uncrew the bolt at the master cylinder. A little fluid may drip out so have a rag handy. You can then unscrew the splitter at the forks and remove the stock lines.

You can change the lines with the brake fluid still in the MC but it will drip a little. If you decide to leave the fluid in the MC, then unscrew the top banjo bolt first and then the bottom bolt.

Once you have the SS line hooked up, fill the master cylinder. Hook up a short piece of clear tubing to the fitting on the caliper and place the other end in a tin can. Pump the brake a couple of times and hold it in (it should be real easy). Open the fitting on the caliper and close. Repeat until the brake lever feels firm. Leave it alone for an hour or so and try the lever again to see if it's firm.

Somtime some small bubbles get into the MC plunger mechanizm. Look down into the MC and slowly pull in the brake lever. If you see bubbles coming out then repeat until none can be seen.

Good luck

Doc

Thanx Doc.. I will be doing the rears also.. With the help of another set of hands, can I bleed both fronts simultaneously or one at a time? Have you ever heard of bleeding the banjos in addition to the calipers?

Have not done my R* brakes yet, but I always bleed the splitter too. Once both calpiers have been bled, I crack the banjo bolt on the splitter. Then I bleed the banjo at the Master Cylinder the same way. Prolly overkill, but what the heck. Something I learned a long time ago too ... wrap something around your brake lever over night so that it stays closed/pulled. That usually helps bleed out the last of the air as well.

leschakitout wrote:
Did some searches but cant find a link to instructions for 1)removing the brake fluid of the stock lines and 2)tips for bleeding the new braided lines... Anyone care to share any instructions? I already know not to let the fluid contact the painted surfaces, etc... Thanx...

I have done this three times. Twice on my Roadie and once on wife's V-Star 1100. All three times I not only had to bleed the calipers, but the banjo bolt fittings wherever they connect. Takes a bunch of fluid. On wife's VStar 1100 we had to let it sit overnight after bleeding the snot out of them. We then had "pedal" in the morning and were able to finish bleeding. The fronts on the Roadie needed to be bled at the juntion block under the triple tree too. Once you get "pedal" let it sit for a day and re-bleed. It works much better that way IMHO.

TM1602