Okay update took her out for a ride tonight ran a couple of miles down the road at highway speed, and sure enough cough, spit, sputter, die. Pulled her over tried to slowly take the filler cap off, but couldnt hear anything. Replaced the cap staight away and fired her back up again. A few more miles down the road replay. Still could not hear anything. Ran to the next town now, for a total of four miles away from home. I pulled off at the first parking lot shut her down and pulled the cap again still no sound. near as I could tell replaced the cap and sat an mulled the whole thing over a bit. Fired her up once again and headed home got the total distance this time with no problems. Now admittedly im half deaf and there was quite a bit of traffic to add to the ambient noise around me, but like I said after the stop and thought which was say bout ten mins or so seemed to clear the problem enough to get her home un eventfully so here again im stumped. So anybody think I should go ahead and disable the ball valve and treat this as the problem before moving on and trying somthing else?

yeah sure why the hell not.... its a cheap fix if that does it. I was gonna say get a automotive stethoscope at harbor freight and see if it helps to hear any pressure venting but the fuel filter is probably cheaper.

definatly sounds like a fuel problem.try leaving the cap half off.run a piece of tape over the top to hold it.if that dont work try bypassing the pump,check your fuel tap.try it on reserve.do the little things before the big things.
johna

I normally wear hearing aids just not while on the bike. Venting the cap is around 15 minutes of your time and a real cheep fix....It fixed mine but I had already dumped the pump and went to a bigger inlet jet in the carb. Like said before do the cheep quick fixes that do not force you into more expensive fixes.
Les

My first guess would also be fuel problem.

Fuel pump problems usually appear under hard acceleration or low fuel in the tank situations.

Dirty jets cause problems at random times.

Dirty filters ... possible. There's two, one large inline filter and the small sintered filter in the carb inlet.

From the sounds of it, your problem seems to be fairly consistent. "Replaced the cap staight away and fired her back up again"

For testing purposes, johna idea of leaving the cap half off or take if off would help to see if it's a venting issue ... don't smoke while riding.

Doc

It could be electrical. I have seen where an engine would run fine until components got up to operating temps and then the ignition would fail. After a short cool off period it would run again until they got hot again. This seems to fit with the fact that he was able to make it all the way back home after letting it sit for 10 minutes. Before that, when he fired it right back up after it died, he only made it a short distance. The proposed component had more time to cool off when it sit longer and therefore would operate for a longer time before it got to the temp to push the resistance of the component out of tolerance again. If this is the case, it is usually caused by too much resistance in the coils or pick up coil. There is a procedure in the service manual for checking resistance on the primary coil, secondary coil, and pick up coil. It could also be an ignitor unit that is breaking down when it gets hot however, this would be the last thing on a long list of things to suspect. Just a different point of view to consider.

Man this is the best thread ye can't wait to see how this turn out

I didn't see it anywhere, but does your bike still have the electric fuel pump. Had one on a car that I was driving that would run fine until it got warm, then the pump would quit. Let the pump cool off for a bit and then the car would run fine again until the pump warmed up again. New pump solved the problems.

Can also check the vent tube to see if it's blocked, (Rollover or Check valve clogs a lot) You can remove that. Or to test just disconnect and bring a temp tube up and tape it to the handle bar and don't smoke. Post the cure when you find it. Do the cures one at a time so ya know what it was.

jamie99roadstar, yes it does still have the fuel pump i beleive its under the right side cover beneath the seat will have to check the manual on how to test it for funcionality.

Doc, i have just rebuilt the carb and cleaned everything in that less than a week ago after the first manifestation of this problem, in addition to that the inline filter has been changed with the rebuild, the first time this happened that was what i suspected first pulled the filter off and just replaced it allthough the old one was not resrictive in anyway.

MS1700, to date i havent done a test on the hard vent tube in the tank, but i have blew through the rubber hose coming off of it it is restrictive but not completely clogged not sure if that would cause the problem or not planning on disabling the the check valve today as the weather is rough here.


Road_Hawg, the electrical components are some of the first things ive tested, the coils, primary and secondary, test within specs according to the shop manual. As well as all four of the spark plug caps. Which leaves the ignition it has an aftermarket ignition box on it (dyno revmaster) that will be the last thing that I will replace when all fails simply because what i would replace it with is in the 250 price range. Not that that is totally out of line just little easier on the pocket book if i didnt have to just yet. The main reason im suspecting it is supposedly that particular ignition boosts your rpm to somwhere from stock 4000 rpm to 5000 installed. well my gov still kicks in around four so not sure that its functioning properly. If anyone out there has any input about this particular igntion I would love to hear it!!!