If you still have your stock box, put it back on and see if it cures the problem.

Road_Hawg wrote:
If you still have your stock box, put it back on and see if it cures the problem.


Not an option this was on it when i bought the bike.

There was a thread about this not too long ago. I don't remember the resolution, but I think the member called Dyna and they advised him on checking the unit or replacing it for him.

The thread also said that this is rarely a problem, but do a search for your problem. You may find the thread unless someone else here comes up with it.

If worse comes to worse, you may find a member who has a stock unit they can lend you who lives close by. I have one if you need to borrow it.

Any new findings yet? I am interested to know the fix when you find it. Thanks.

Okay update got a chance to go thru a few things, one checked the vent tube, the ball check valve was already gone and the tube was just cut off behind the rear cylinder head. I did however notice there had been two zip ties wrapped around the frame and the tube and tightened down. Corrected that by removing the zip ties and rerunning them around the frame and under the vent tube. Also tryed to check the metal vent tube attached to the tank by blowing back thru it... Starting to think that wasnt the correct way of checking for a clog there, as I noticed when I did that fuel starting pouring out of the filler cap with the cap on (chime in here anybody if you have somthing to say about that, well other than laughing your ass off about it lol)... It was rather hard to blow thru it but there again not sure that was the right thing to do or not.

Pulled the plugs again and rechecked them, all looked real good, gap correct and nice and clean. This being the first day since I did that we here have had rideable weather, I will have to see if the problem is solved or not, also due to the fact that ive been using a screwdriver to remove the filler cap since i bought my roadie i did go ahead and order a new tank filler cap, oem replacement at $80 bucks (ouch!) that I will still have to have keyed when it arrives. If I can break free of the shop for an hour or so ill try to stretch her legs and see if problem is solved and get back to you all.

shawn

I would bet the ECU is the problem but get it checked before you buy one of those costly little gems.

If it is still not fixed I would remove both battery cables clean them (even if they look clean) and reinstall them. I have seen thermal sensitive high resistence problems related to batteries and cables that caused similar issues.

EUC unit???? what might that be???

Road_Hawg wrote:
I would bet the ECU is the problem but get it checked before you buy one of those costly little gems.

I think he may mean the ignitor ... the black box forward of the battery.

Doc

Oh okay got ya, yeah that is suspect still but it will be the last thing I replace and does anybody know how to test those aftermarket ones to see if fuctioning properly?? it currently has a dyno revmaster on it would be cool to just test it to see if its working right if there was a way to.