Just to keep you all up to speed the dyna wasnt the answer, so in total desperation ive taken the fuel pump off and ran a straight line with a filter to the carb. On the trial run she was running really rich. Attributed that to her finally getting fuel. Low and behold 3 miles from home she died again pulled the filler cap off (as that has been replaced with a new oem cap due to a jimmy rigged lock). After a few tries she fired back up. Went home and decided to take her for more of a spin just to see if maybe it would straighten out. Put about 20 miles on her, with one scheduled stop, and other than running really rich and smoking like a forest fire she made it so have decided that it must be the fuel pump that was gumming up the works. Also as far as the retard function on the dyna what do people set that at there was no suggestions in the instructions and I have no friggin clue?

So all in all I think I might just do away with it, I have been reading posts about doin this mod. And have a few questions to pose. First how do I go about looking for a bigger float needle is it somthing I can just find at the local yamaha shop? And is a higher flow petcock really required??? I spent the day today rejetting back to barrons suggested specs 170 main and fourth groove on the needle. After that tried to start her up and no fire so just kicked her in the tire and gave up for the day. Back to the drawing boards getting sooooo sick of this!!!!!

So I guess tomorow first off ill charge the battery as it is dead check the coil connections, Plugs for fouling, Make sure its gettin fuel. Then proced to roll her off a friggin cliff!!!

I bought my float valve at the link below I believe it is the actual valve for a Suzuki GSF 1200 Bandit part # 13370-08F50.If you buy it there the check out defaults to buying 4 valves use the minus sign beside it to buy just 1 for about 39 bucks.Also the retard on your Dyna3000 does nothing unless you hard wire it to your TPS so ignore it....Coug

Float valve

For the Dyna set it at .... off on on on on off - - (as Coug said ... the last two don't matter). This is for a stock motor.

For the carb ... 170 main, 4th groove from the top (blunt end), stock pilot (#35). Pull of the choke knob and trim it as detailed in the Tech Articles.

Clean plugs or better yet change plugs (use same ones as recommended in the manual).

Run direct from tank to carb. Removing the fuel pump will introduce another problem area ... some folks cannot run extended without one. In this case the bike will sputter and buck as it runs out of fuel ... it won't die all of a sudden ... and you can 'get it back' by backing off the throttle to let the fuel bowl fill up.

While you're at it, clean or temporarily remove the sintered fuel filter from the carb fuel inlet.

If the above results in the bike dying then it's not fuel releated (assuming you have the tank vent issue resolved).

I know it frustrating but you need to take one step at a time to eliminate possible problem areas or you'll never figure it out.

Doc

While you're at it, clean or temporarily remove the sintered fuel filter from the carb fuel inlet.

Is this somthing that you can remove from the carb??? i cant find a diagram on this where is it exactly???

Is it possible that by trimming the choke handle ive have cured this problem??? Talked to a Yami tech at the local shop here, he suggested putting the pump back on and routing the lines as suggested by barons, which I did in addition to trimming the choke handle as suggested here (Doc), and so far so good. I get a little cough here and there it seems mostly during warming up. Which I am attributing to not having the jetting quite dialed in and the pms screw not where it quite should be just yet but so far so good!!!!

I am getting a little puff of black smoke when I rev her up while she is warming up so thinking she might be a little rich just yet but have her down to a 170 main now with the needle clip on four the pms screw is at 3.25 turns out and the rest appears to be stock.

Glad to hear it's coming together although we were all waiting at the bottom of the cliff to collect parts.

I seriously doubt that the choke knob trim cured your initial problem. It must be something else you have done or it's an intermittent problem that will reappear ... hope not.

I suggest you move the needle clip to the 5th slot and try the WOT test to verify that the main is OK. Then you can move the clip to the 4th slot and retest.

The cough when cold is not unusual but you need to first dial in the carb jetting.

Doc

vultures! jk. anyway Im hoping like hell that between the two things I did yesterday I some how hit upon the right answer. What in your words am I doin by changing the needle clip position??

man can't wait to see how this turn out, hang in there KID your getting it ,take a break then get back on it were rooting for ya

tatinguy wrote:
What in your words am I doin by changing the needle clip position??

Read THIS

Doc

Man, this thread is getting to be like a suspense novel. I can't wait to see how it turns out.