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TOPIC: Re:D 3000 and timing
#2166
draco (User)
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D 3000 and timing 8 Years, 1 Month ago  
Does the Dyna 3000 effect the timing and make a carb cough / backfire through the carb?
 
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#2167
maddog200_0 (User)
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Re:D 3000 and timing 8 Years, 1 Month ago  
I have a 42m carb when i put my 3000 I never had no trouble like
that. but it sure made it run. I think i got it set at 34A Igot every
thing on it except pistons and heads.I am sure some one eles will
jump in here that knows more than I do.



Don
 
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#2169
draco (User)
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Re:D 3000 and timing 8 Years, 1 Month ago  
Thanks Don, I've been on 36A for a couple years and made little changes, maybe I need to go to 34A and be a little less agressive for stock engine.

Anyone else know for sure if timing is effected that much?
 
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#2170
maddog200_0 (User)
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Re:D 3000 and timing 8 Years, 1 Month ago  
draco It don,t sound like it is in your timeing that sounds
like fule mixture maybe air leak.Befor i changed setting I would
check a little further. If you have been set at that for two
years. if some one don,t jump in I would check with Bulldog
I am sure he will have a answer.






Don
 
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#2175
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Re:D 3000 and timing 8 Years, 1 Month ago  
Generally, backfiring through the carb is a carb problem. The Mikuni tuning manual (available on this site) for the HSR recommends tweaking the accelerator pump to come in sooner for correction, if it's "off-throttle" popping; a most common situation.

In my experience with stock and HSR carbs, that seems to work.

But, I can envision a situation where stock jetting (lean) combined with too much timing advance could worsen --maybe even cause--the "cough". Essentially, something is causing rapid combustion "peaking" while the intake valve(s) are open. Assuming you have only added a Dyna and not re-jetted??

Try backing off the Dyna to 34A. I think 36A is a little aggressive for most applications

And, I know the following statement controverts the old hot-rodding lore of running a lot of advance, but I believe Yamaha's twin plug, 4 valve and intake design was intended to lessen the amount of advance our motors need, by achieving more efficient combustion

Since timing advance starts combustion as the piston ascends, "negative workforce" results. If combustion can be made faster through different designs, less advance can be run, minimizing the negative workforce. I think that was a design objective by Yamaha (along with emissions considerations).

Thus, the range of timing advance on our motors is less than a V-Twin without such differences. I recall older Harleys ran around 40 degrees. The difference is a significant reduction in negative workforce.

And, if that's not enough controversy, here's a little more...

Once departed from stock tuning parameters, I can see where running higher octane can benefit combustion altered by jetting and timing changes, despite prevailing opinion that combustion ratio alone dictates it octane requirements.

IMHO

Jim<br><br>Post edited by: Bucardo, at: 2005/05/07 00:19
 
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#2176
draco (User)
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Re:D 3000 and timing 8 Years, 1 Month ago  
Bucardo wrote:
Since timing advance starts combustion as the piston ascends, &quot;negative workforce&quot; results. If combustion can be made faster through different designs, less advance can be run, minimizing the negative workforce. I think that was a design objective by Yamaha (along with emissions considerations).

Thus, the range of timing advance on our motors is less than a V-Twin without such differences. I recall older Harleys ran around 40 degrees. The difference is a significant reduction in negative workforce.

IMHO

JimPost edited by: Bucardo, at: 2005/05/07 00:19


Funny because I talked to an old Hot Rodder who inspired this question and his cure for the problem was timing. I have to confess that I was certain I was running 36A but upon inspection was running 32A all this time and was having a problem with carb cough. Adjusting jetting, the acc pump, drilling pilot jets of the coaster enricher and plugging the pilot air jet in the mouth of the carb, etc. all did no good even finding an air leak in the manifold. I placed carb adjustments to stock as possible and set the Dyna to 36A and tried to get it to cough again and it would not in the short time I tried (now raining). The Dyna instructions say most motors will run best with &quot;A curves&quot; 30 to 36A, 32A most similar to stock.

I really enjoyed reading your post I believe you hit the nail on the head and I will see on my next few rides if I had the wrong ignition curve setting for my bike (All have different characteristics?). thanks ALL
 
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#2196
draco (User)
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Re:D 3000 and timing 8 Years, 1 Month ago  
Up-date: 36A seems to be the ticket thus far and I will try others for fun.
 
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