Yeah, I'm not saying to drill it out right in the middle of your mouldings!!!!

and if you ever sell it the tricky - just use a plug for the hole.

There's never, ever a reason to sell your Tricky Kit! Unless you've completely totaled your bike, then that's understandable.

Our shocks our guaranteed REBUILDABLE FOR LIFE!

Lord, please forgive Slothy, for he knows not what he says... j/k

Having just done it, it's all fresh. Puting all the components together where they go was a snap. Heat, sweat and overspray combined tight tolerances had me swearing and calling Rob. He did his best to calm me down yeterday and he called this morning to check on my condition. My issue was this: the pin that the dog bones ride on was nowhere near sliding into where it was supposed to. After some "widening" of the very well made shock, it finally slid through. Next the collars with the o-rings in 'em would not slide past the shoulders of the shock (have pictures for all you doubters). Seems it needed coaxed into place. Other than that the rest went together like it was already installed. Greeny- there is plenty of hose there so don't feel like you have to make straight shots at everything. I looped the shock hose through the place suggested and around the battery to one side of the "Y". From the other side of the "Y" more looped hose around the battery to the solenoid which came out just about under the Y. Then from the compressor to the single side of the Y. Drilled a hole in the plastic part of the covers and that switch is so small if you didn't know it was there you'd never find it. Put the switch more or less on the front/top of the cover so I'll have room for the rear/left pipe of a daul system to be named later. Sounds complicated but all the bends are gentle and it looks awesome. Aired up last night and holding pressure today. Looks better than I expected. Works just like I expected. Thanks Rob

Glad you're happy NOTHD!

FYI, you can leave it airred up as long as you want and it'll be ok, however, when storing it for an extended time we recomend leaving it airred down, so you don't put uneccesary pressure on the bidirectional seals...

I wire-tied the toggle switch under the RH part of the seat. I can reach it, but you can't see it. I don't think I've used it in a while. Just there as a backup. No need to drill a hole or get elaborate.

What you guys might want to consider are the following.

1. Air Pressure Sensor. (120lbs $20.00 on Ebay). Tricky, correct me if I'm wrong. But, 150lbs is the max, correct?
.
You can wire it to the blue wire that controls the rear tail light. If you turn the key on, the sensor kicks on the compressor and brings it back up to ride height @ 120lbs. It'll only kick on at or < 90lbs.

2. If you're a little more creative, you can add a 2CH-4CH remote control ($20.00 on Ebay). One button kicks the solenoid to drain the system and bring it to the ground at 100ft.. The other button kicks on the air pressure sensor to bring it back up on command.


Also, you might want to consider a real brass tee. Tricky, we love ya man. But, those push in connectors are ok as long as you don't have to pull it apart. I ruined a couple just getting the system the way I wanted it.


Do it once
Do it right



Rich

What size Rich?

Need only one?

Thanks,

Doc

Doc:

One tee is enough to do the install.

If you're doing the air pressure sensor, you'll need one 1/8" 4-way cross vs one 1/8" 3-way tee.


Rich

I really recommend getting the wireless controller. I had mine on the toggle switch for two days, and then put on the wireless controller. I would never go back again. Got mine for $24.99 at Princess Auto.

OK, I got a lot of material to cover...
1. Air Pressure Sensor. (120lbs $20.00 on Ebay). Tricky, correct me if I'm wrong. But, 150lbs is the max, correct?

150 psi is max operating, but that would be pretty stiff, also even 120 psi, will put you near topped out (without rider weight). Hmmmm.... be very careful with those pressure sensors... we've had customers put on pressure sensors that weren't set to the correct psi or were either just operating incorrectly. Long story short, they kept burning up the compressors. Then they got mad at us when we wouldn't replace them for free. We do have a one year warranty on the compressor and solenoid, but it's going to be for a stock set up. We test them to see how they were damaged and if it was an install error or incorrect operation - not covered.

Rich, it sounds like you know what you're doing... but I wouldn't recomend a novice following suit...

2. If you're a little more creative, you can add a 2CH-4CH remote control ($20.00 on Ebay). One button kicks the solenoid to drain the system and bring it to the ground at 100ft.. The other button kicks on the air pressure sensor to bring it back up on command.


Always a good alternative, but there are pros and cons as well. We know our remote is a little pricier than others, but there is a reason. We had to pay alot of money for the R&D to develop it. Here's the scoop - when we were still a younger company, we tried different/cheaper remote set ups. The problem we were encountering was interference from the frequency that the vibration that the compressor made. What would happen is, that alot of the remotes would work slower or intermittently. What we ended up doing is spending the money to develop a remote specifically made for our system by a top of the line manufacturer. We have contracts that binds them to sell this exact set up to us only. Like I said it cost us, so it costs you a little more, but we feel it's the best remote for our system out there. It's 4 channel, and fully programmable. The up button we program to operate for 10 seconds with just one touch, this automatically puts you at ride height. Another button is down, and then you have two more buttons that you can program to operate any auxillary you want (LED lights, radio, etc.) If you have found a cheap remote that works without interference, more power too you!