MS1700 tried all but the last and it comes down to heat and fuel pressure build up. When carb gets air and less heat no puke. Even if you shut the gas off 2 blocks or so from home. If you take off it still will do it. The only possibility he didn't try was a micro fan at the bowl. Not hard to go pump less and bike runs very well that way. If you go 42 or 45 TPS or Voes IMHO will be needed.

Yep I tried EVERYTHIG and the dealer sponsored me to tune of several hundred if not into the thousands in parts and labor. The problem was finally cured by what Makcap told me to do to start with save the pump and new air cleaner that gets more air to the jugs.

Saved Schatzie and I from being eaten by a angry mama bear on the blue ridge Parkway,

You can try all ya want, you'll just get it to puke at longer and different times from what ya have now.

Good pump for sale!

An update on the float adjustment for my 06. As I said it is an intermitent problem and usually happens when I am riding on a hot day and shut down for a short time, like fueling or a butt break. This last weekend I got to ride with the Star Chapter and it was fairly hot, but no puking. At the end of the day after riding for about 30 miles in a light rain, so not so hot anymore, we arrived at my girlfriend's house. After about 20 minutes I went out to ride home and she said what's that? The bike dripped a drop of fuel from the vent line and she saw if drop on the engine casing. I said that is why she smells like gas after I shut it down. Then when I went to start I had full blown puke. Fortunately out of habit I had shut the fuel off, but it drained the bowl quickly right down the rear pushrod tube!!! I have tried everything to resolve this issue and it still happens. So adjusting the float level might help others, but I still have puke. I think I may try to insulate the carb from the engine heat somehow to see if that will help. This is frustrating and potentially dangerous, but there does not seem to be a repeatable cause for the puking.

Thanks for this update, Cruiserbob. I had been holding off trying this until I saw your results. I still will try a number of things but thought 1mm below would be the first thing I tried.

I may follow the course MS suggests and try pumpless. Thanks again.

..dl..

I am thinking about how to shield the carb from heat. The BAK appeared to help when I put it on, but still had an occassional spit up. I have ridden about 800 miles since adjusting the floats, and thought I might be out of the woods when it puked on Saturday. I am not ready to go pumpless, although that should solve the problem as the pump runs wide open when the puking begins and if the fuel is not shut off it will pump a lot of gas out.
Anybody have any good ideas on how to shield the carb from heat?

i will hav
e to agree w/earbman on this one. my
07 1700 used to do it in hot weather,i adjusted float level according to clinic instructions and so far no more carb puking









ha

i also get low to mid 40s city ,50 hwy. not uncommon for me to get 200 mi out of tank of gas and not hit res yet.can let the bike sit for half an hour and lay my hand on the jugs and keep it there.its that cool.

Crusierbob wrote:
An update on the float adjustment for my 06. As I said it is an intermitent problem and usually happens when I am riding on a hot day and shut down for a short time, like fueling or a butt break. This last weekend I got to ride with the Star Chapter and it was fairly hot, but no puking. At the end of the day after riding for about 30 miles in a light rain, so not so hot anymore, we arrived at my girlfriend's house. After about 20 minutes I went out to ride home and she said what's that? The bike dripped a drop of fuel from the vent line and she saw if drop on the engine casing. I said that is why she smells like gas after I shut it down. Then when I went to start I had full blown puke. Fortunately out of habit I had shut the fuel off, but it drained the bowl quickly right down the rear pushrod tube!!! I have tried everything to resolve this issue and it still happens. So adjusting the float level might help others, but I still have puke. I think I may try to insulate the carb from the engine heat somehow to see if that will help. This is frustrating and potentially dangerous, but there does not seem to be a repeatable cause for the puking.

When you checked the level of gas in bowl with the clear tube, did you check it at the back of carb (manifold side)or the front of carb (air filter side). It does make a difference, should be checked from back. And with bike on lift. carb does need to be as much level as possible. Keep in mind with the air filter off, the carb might slightly tilt down, use something to keep it in position if it does tilt. and no more than .1 above mating surface

Thank you. The bike was on a lift and the carb was level. I took the reading from the front. I believe if I ran the level to 1mm below the lower rear mating surface there would be almost no gas in the float bowl. I am confused as you suggested as I recall in a previous post that the level should be 1mm below the mating surface, and in your latest post you indicate .1 above? Is that .1mm? as that would be difficult to measure with any accuaracy with a clear tube and only 2 hands.

I am confused as I recall the mating surface on my carb is lower on the back than the front and if I use the back as a reference won't I be running out of gas???? I would like to get this right as I have been in to this many times and seem to be getting no where except drenched in fuel.

Excerpt from the Tech Article on Adjsuting the Float Level.
Note from Cal /LtoR
On the float level....there are two mating surfaces, a "front (air cleaner side), and a back (intake side)...the back is 11MMs higher than the front. I had set my level using the front mating surface as a reference...since then I have had a problem of "running out of gas" if I do a full throttle run through the gears, at about 85 in fourth the bike would "stutter", back of on the throttle for a few secs and away you could go. Thanks to Wanderndude for pointing out that the mating surface to use is the back mating surface....if you look in the manual, I forget the page, it does appear to be the back mating surface they are referencing but no where in print (unless I skipped over it) does it make this statement.

I had to go back and find some additional info from one of the better carb guru's. hence the .1 above mating surface, he does not reference it as mm, but as the point 1 which is one tenth. Myself, never had a float issue with stock or 42hsr carb. I'm only referencing from all the posts that I have read over the last 4.5yrs, and what seems to be the fix for gas puke, I must have read well over 100 posts on this issue, and the level recommended seem to do the fix. Could not find reference in manual either as far as front or back for mating surface measurement, but everything I have read by others have been rear, probably because and you have found the rear is the higher side. the manual does call for 1 or 2 tenths over mate surface, hence, I would side with the no more than the 1 tench to err on the side of caution.