I have had cars and bikes with dry and wet clutches that sat for some time get stuck clutches.

With a bike i just hold rear brake very hard and rev the motor to just a above idle and pop it into 1st gear which has always worked for me if its in fact stuck clutch plates and i have never had a trans issue post doing this either with a bike & wet clutch setup.

Might want to 1st get motor & oil good and hot before trying this so let it run for a bit sitting still before trying this.

But for safety sake make sure you have bike pointed straight with ample runout room in front of you in case clutch plates nont break loose or something elst like broken intenal issues are not allowingt clutch to disengauge so if bike trys to take off you have room to get it stopped before hitting somrething.

Better yet for an even safer way you could place bike on sturdy bike jack/lift just high enough to get rear wheel off the ground . Then if clutch doestn break loose with a few trys of dropping it into 1st gear with rear brake on and motor reved slightly over idle the bike wont lurch forword on you.

Scott

I want to say thanks to all the guys who took time from their busy schedule to help me out. Here is the list: davej, Cappdawg, Silvasilv, hardone2get, scottw.

I will follow your opiniions which are fantastic.

Since I have the clutch cover off I might as well pull off the clutch and replace the disks. I guess the clutch might have the 50k miles might as well. I will also include a stiffer diaphram as mentioned above. Put it all back together making sure everything fits well and is oiled. Pull off the kickstand switch just in case. Set the clutch cable free play correctly. Then Pray. I am going out of town this week for the Holidays and won't sleep well until I get my hands greasy again. I am not talking about a greasy turkey either.

I will let everybody know how it went. I think I will take lots of pictures of this crummy mess so that everybody can laugh.

Have a great thanksgiving guys and thanks for your help.

AJ

I would check the plates thickness I think it is 3mm also while you are in there check the oil pump gear. On earlier models they have a weak neck. This could also be the culprit if the ears snapped. Albeit a long shot would still replace it while you are in there. I would also get new grade 8 bolts for the plate the stock are way to brittle and they stretch. Will the bike idle in neutral without being on the throttle

Thanks Makcap
The bike does idle pretty good and throttles up smoothly. I will upgrade the bolts that is a good idea. Where do you get these grade 8 bolts? I was planning on upgrading the oil pump gear. There is a tech note on items to replace in this forum and it mentions the weak neck of the R's gear and suggests to replace it with the Raider. The tech note shows a picture of both of them and it makes sense to go with the Warrior. Best I get myself a decent caliper to measure things with, guess it's about time. I like to do things right.

Are those Roundhouse exhaust on your bike. They are made in SoCal in Lake Elsinore. How do they sound?

Thanks for your advice.

tbenach wrote:
I want to say thanks to all the guys who took time from their busy schedule to help me out. Here is the list: davej, Cappdawg, Silvasilv, hardone2get, scottw.

I will follow your opiniions which are fantastic.

Since I have the clutch cover off I might as well pull off the clutch and replace the disks. I guess the clutch might have the 50k miles might as well. I will also include a stiffer diaphram as mentioned above. Put it all back together making sure everything fits well and is oiled. Pull off the kickstand switch just in case. Set the clutch cable free play correctly. Then Pray. I am going out of town this week for the Holidays and won't sleep well until I get my hands greasy again. I am not talking about a greasy turkey either.

I will let everybody know how it went. I think I will take lots of pictures of this crummy mess so that everybody can laugh.

Have a great thanksgiving guys and thanks for your help.

AJ
If you decide to remove the kickstand switch follow the 2 wires under the left side cover. Cut them and wire the 2 ends together to make contact. The switch keeps the loop open so when you connect the 2 ends it closes the loop. I know I suggested it before and I will suggest it again. Put the rear tire or the whole bike in the air for your first test of the clutch. Did you get the PM I sent you?
Danny

Thanks, Danny

Nice bike, I will do the kickstand switch like you mentioned. Sounds like a good idea, don't know why they ever really needed a switch to begin with! I don't think I got a PM from you yet. I will be really careful on this project. I will be posting a picture of the salvaged bike and the finished bike. It's all done but when I went to drive it, Poohped on my parade with this clutch. But hey it's really clean now.
Thanks, again

well my harley doesnt have a switch in the kickstand and i can tell you i have ridden off with the stand down because i am used to the roadie, the stand switch has embarassed me 3 or 4 times when i slam it into gear and it just dies haha but its still a nice thing to have...hope you get it all sorted out

Yamaha thought they were protecting people from driving off with the kickstand down. The R* was the first motorcycle I ever owned that had a switch like that so I removed it. And now that I'm in the process of converting it to a trike for my wife to ride I even removed the kickstand all together. It can't fall over

i hope you took a helluva lot of pics of the trike progress! I have been thinkin bout doing that for my father

hardone2get wrote:
Yamaha thought they were protecting people from driving off with the kickstand down. The R* was the first motorcycle I ever owned that had a switch like that so I removed it. And now that I'm in the process of converting it to a trike for my wife to ride I even removed the kickstand all together. It can't fall over


That is one expensive kickstand mod

But I like it can't wait to see it boxed in!