Makcap wrote:
You should try some never dull or similar with cornstarch after it get blacked up by the never dull. Buff and then use a good aluminum polish with cornstarch again and buff. It looks good and I know it takes a lot of work but you will see a major diff.. Some say lighter fluid is a good sealant.

Thanks, Makcap...I'd heard that somewhere before about lighter fluid...something about the naptha...?

RK

Roadkill1962 wrote:
120 dry, 400 wet, 600 wet, 800 wet, 1500 wet, rouge on bench grinder wheel, white polishing compound on wheel, chrome polish by hand. I did cheat and use the same wheel for rouge & white...

I suspect the "120 dry" ... I think that's the 'scratch' marks that you are seeing on the buffed part. Aluminum scratches easily. I usually don't go coarser than 220 on Aluminum.

I know it's hard to get the clear off with the finer paper ... and being lazy I try to cut corners too ... but in the end it takes more sanding to get the coarse marks out than it does to remove the clear with a finer paper.

Whenever you switch grades you need to make sure that you remove all the sanding marks made by the coarser grade. The trick I use (if possible) is to sand with the new finer grade (600) at right angles to the old coarser grade (400). You mover to the next finer grade (800) when you can no longer see the marks from the previous coarser grade (400).

It's also not a good idea to mix polishing compounds. The compound gets impregnated into the wheel and you cannot clean the wheel so you just have a blend of old and new compound on the wheel. If you don't want to buy another wheel then skip the white and go straight to the hand buff with chrome polish.

Doc

DocShadow wrote:
Roadkill1962 wrote:
120 dry, 400 wet, 600 wet, 800 wet, 1500 wet, rouge on bench grinder wheel, white polishing compound on wheel, chrome polish by hand. I did cheat and use the same wheel for rouge & white...

I suspect the "120 dry" ... I think that's the 'scratch' marks that you are seeing on the buffed part. Aluminum scratches easily. I usually don't go coarser than 220 on Aluminum.

I know it's hard to get the clear off with the finer paper ... and being lazy I try to cut corners too ... but in the end it takes more sanding to get the coarse marks out than it does to remove the clear with a finer paper.

Whenever you switch grades you need to make sure that you remove all the sanding marks made by the coarser grade. The trick I use (if possible) is to sand with the new finer grade (600) at right angles to the old coarser grade (400). You mover to the next finer grade (800) when you can no longer see the marks from the previous coarser grade (400).

It's also not a good idea to mix polishing compounds. The compound gets impregnated into the wheel and you cannot clean the wheel so you just have a blend of old and new compound on the wheel. If you don't want to buy another wheel then skip the white and go straight to the hand buff with chrome polish.

Doc

Thanks, Doc.

That's pretty much what I did. It's hard to take a good pic (especially late at night ). If you hold the riser in your hand and look at it, there are no grooves in the metal if you hold it up close...they're more like swirl marks. I knew I shouldn't have used the same wheel, but that was all I had at the time. The red was in the wheel, and was probably counteracting any good I may have been doing with the white. I'll pick up a clean buff wheel today, and maybe even go back to the 1500 wet and progress from there to see if I can get it any better.

RK

EDIT: OK, I went back and looked just now, and did find a few fine scratches...dammit...

OK ... if you sanded correctly then swirl marks are left by the rouge.

The white really shines it up ... if used properly.

I found the best place to buy buffing/polishing stuff is from a jewelers supply.

Doc

Here's a different shot...





I'll go get a clean wheel. Thanks, Doc!

RK

I have the same floor in my kitchen.

LOL

Jade68454 wrote:
harbor freight polish kit

Wow, even if you only got one use out of it, it would be worth it. I am gonna look for one that will mount on my bench grinder too.

Good job!

There's a lot on my bike that's polished up (calipers, etc.) to look like chrome.

Sears sells the bar kits pretty cheap, but works really well.
Finish it all up with some Mothers and it'll be good for a year or more.


Rich

you really don't have to pick up a new one every time just run it and use a screwdriver to clean the wheel. I polish my Kenworth about once a month and on the rouges that are close I usually just pick em clean (the buff wheels) reload an go back to it.

I have been struggling with how to shine up some aluminum parts and dreading the removal of factory clear coats... do I put a new clear on... will I have to fully repolish annually...

I just found this and found it very informative, hope it helps someone else too.

polishing school