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Re:No Spark 3 and 4 2 Years, 4 Months ago
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Inside every ignition coil are two sets of windings around a laminated or segmented iron core. The "primary" windings, which number a few hundred, are connected to the two external low voltage terminals on the coil. The positive (+) primary terminal connects to the ignition switch and battery while the negative (-) primary terminal connects to the ignition module which provides ground. The "secondary" windings, which have thousands of turns, are connected at one end to the primary positive terminal and the high voltage secondary output terminal in the center of the coil at the other end.
(This is a cut and paste from the web) The secondary is connected to the primary pos side. 
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dave
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johna (User)
Junior Boarder
Posts: 103
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Re:No Spark 3 and 4 2 Years, 4 Months ago
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take off all new stuff you put on ie. taco.as that ties into the electrical system. take it back to standard.and try again.
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Re:No Spark 3 and 4 2 Years, 3 Months ago
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I thought about going back to stock to verify or identify the problem, but I dontated the OEM bars and switches to a fellow R* owner who wrecked his bike. The only change I made to the electrics (very Brittish use of terms there, I watch too much Top Gear) was changing the hand switches to HD and added the digital dash.
However....a new kink has emerged. When the bike first came home and I installed all the elctrics, everything worked. Signals, lights, horn, dash, etc...No issues. When the no starting issue came up, I began asking the forum and tracing wires. Last night I decided to check the switches again. I started with the horn. As soon as I pushed it, all the light dimmed, the battery light came on, and no horn. Since I am having all kinds of bad luck with this, I am not going to let my ideas loose. I would rather ask you folks for a second opinion on what might be happening.
By the way. I don't post often, but I have been on hear for while and spend a most of my time reading posts rather than typing. You guys never fail to impress with your willingness to share and help out a fellow rider. Thanks.
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Lowrider, Donny. Donny?! Lowrider. (Gone in 60 Seconds)
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Re:No Spark 3 and 4 2 Years, 3 Months ago
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Sounds like a short in the horn circuit. you have some wiring crossed up or skinned insulation somewhere..I sure don't envy you...good luck..
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Re:No Spark 3 and 4 2 Years, 3 Months ago
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Really hating life right now....
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Lowrider, Donny. Donny?! Lowrider. (Gone in 60 Seconds)
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Mich447 (User)
Junior Boarder
Posts: 194
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Re:No Spark 3 and 4 2 Years, 3 Months ago
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had same problem with mine no spark tested everything found that wire connecting book which screws to top of the boot was burnt up cut off bad piece and threaded it back into screw on top of boot and spark returned pain in the a-- but effective good luck
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Re:No Spark 3 and 4 2 Years, 2 Months ago
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I gave up and ordered an entire harness today. I have done everything I can to find the problem and still have not been able to find the rogue connection/wire/switch. Considering this bike is a 99, has been wrecked by the previous owner, and heavily modified by me, I hope starting with a new harness will relieve the issues.
Thanks for all the help. Here's hoping I won't be begging for more on this issue.
Billy
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Lowrider, Donny. Donny?! Lowrider. (Gone in 60 Seconds)
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Re:No Spark 3 and 4 1 Year, 9 Months ago
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And the saga continues....
Since the last discussion on my issue, I have replaced the entire wire harness. Then I tried to start it again and nothing. So I went through the trouble shooting process and found that the relay unit was showing no continuity where needed. So I ordered a new relay unit and and checked all the switch connections again.....The horn started shorting out, just like before (see earlier posts). So I decided to re-wire the HD switches so that the horn power source runs completely seperate from the lights (on the HD switches they share power). Everything works: horn, lights, starter, kill switch, no issues. However, the bike will not start. I went back to trouble shooting and the relay unit is showing no-continuity where it should and continuity where it should not. The page is 7-16 of the service manual, step 13. I don't want to buy another relay unit until I am sure it is bad. The old unit, and the recent unit both read the same when I follow step 13-no coninuity where it should be, and continuity where it shouldn't.
I also have a question about the clutch and side stand switch. I have two sets of instructions from folks who have converted to HD bars and switches. One set of instructions says to short the clutch and side stand wires together (black with yellow strip and blue with yellow strip), while the other says to short them to a known ground. Can anyone tell me which is the correct or preferred method to use? I have been working on this build for two years and would really appreciate any help.
Thanks
Col
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Lowrider, Donny. Donny?! Lowrider. (Gone in 60 Seconds)
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Erbman02 (User)
Platinum Boarder
Posts: 3801
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Re:No Spark 3 and 4 1 Year, 9 Months ago
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did ya follow the blu/black and blu/yellow wire off the key switch? this forms a loop ckt. so they are shorted together.
As far as clutch sw. just short the clutch wires together, not to ground, there is voltage on this, if you follow the the black/yello to the relay, you will see it goes to the coil, on the other side of the coil is red/black which gets power from the battery, so you do not want to short this to ground.
as far as sidestand, again just connect them together, the blu/white connected together will go to ground
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Last Edit: 2010/08/03 16:28 By Erbman02.
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Re:No Spark 3 and 4 1 Year, 9 Months ago
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That makes more sense than the instructions I have on paper. I'll give it a shot tomorrow night and see if I can get a little further on this project. Thanks Brother Erbman02.
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Lowrider, Donny. Donny?! Lowrider. (Gone in 60 Seconds)
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