Re:removing the oiltank, let the oil go through frame
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TOPIC: Re:removing the oiltank, let the oil go through frame
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erizo (User)
Platinum Boarder
Posts: 1866
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Re:removing the oiltank, let the oil go through frame 3 Years, 2 Months ago
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looking at your design, you've got the front sprocket forward of the normal pulley position.
it looks to be in the same position as the output shaft from the gearbox. doing that would mean right side drive as per warstar .
if you're going that route with the proportions (although it looks like a first draft - and a nice one at that) you´re going to end up with a hellishly long chain run.
just as a way round this, have a close look at some of the extended swingarm and wide tyre kits built for destroying the handling of sprotsbikes (short chain from output shaft to a double sprocket on a short shaft mounted on the swingarm, to final drive sprocket), as it might give you a couple of ideas.
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be realistic - demand the impossible!
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3 UP (User)
Junior Boarder
Posts: 174
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Re:removing the oiltank, let the oil go through frame 3 Years, 2 Months ago
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If you remove the transfercase you will not have room for a 300 unless you use a jackshaft. Even on mine running a 300 with BMS's pulley spacer you still have to offset the wheel a bit.
Here's one without the transfer case.
Heres a link to the cheapest low trans cover if you wanted to go that route.
http://www.ldcustombikewurks.com/looneyoilcover.htm |
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Last Edit: 2010/04/12 16:35 By 3 UP.
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Re:removing the oiltank, let the oil go through frame 3 Years, 2 Months ago
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erizo wrote:
something i've seen done is a lower top fitted to the oil tank. thunderbike in germany have built some wicked roadies with dropped seats using this method. you lose a bit of capacity, but with 4 quarts running round the system, i don't think that's too much of a problem.
www.thunderbike.de
I have the luck to live about 45 minutes drive from thunderbike.de
So i am well known with the company 
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Erbman02 (User)
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Posts: 5495
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Re:removing the oiltank, let the oil go through frame 3 Years, 2 Months ago
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I got some info that is food for thought for ya. someone that did a mod as well. I asked about removing the tank
it's a dry sump and has to have a holding reservoir. The thing he does need to address is that the R* motor flows a lot of volume. Those metal tubes on the stock bike is a good example. There 7/16" in the ID. Whatever lines he chooses to use need to be NO smaller than 3/8" on the ID and the stock pump should be fine and the frame needs to hold at least 3 qt.. |
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Re:removing the oiltank, let the oil go through frame 3 Years, 2 Months ago
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3 UP wrote:
If you remove the transfercase you will not have room for a 300 unless you use a jackshaft. Even on mine running a 300 with BMS's pulley spacer you still have to offset the wheel a bit.
Here's one without the transfer case.
Heres a link to the cheapest low trans cover if you wanted to go that route.
http://www.ldcustombikewurks.com/looneyoilcover.htm
I'm not really sure what a jackshaft is.
Been searching but can't find it 
Don't forget were building a complete new frame.
The wheels will be in line, i know that the front pulley will be offset a bit more then 1".
This is allready been measured!
These offset pulley can be bought at thunderbike.de for instance but we will be making it our self.
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Re:removing the oiltank, let the oil go through frame 3 Years, 2 Months ago
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erizo wrote:
looking at your design, you've got the front sprocket forward of the normal pulley position.
it looks to be in the same position as the output shaft from the gearbox. doing that would mean right side drive as per warstar .
if you're going that route with the proportions (although it looks like a first draft - and a nice one at that) you´re going to end up with a hellishly long chain run.
just as a way round this, have a close look at some of the extended swingarm and wide tyre kits built for destroying the handling of sprotsbikes (short chain from output shaft to a double sprocket on a short shaft mounted on the swingarm, to final drive sprocket), as it might give you a couple of ideas.
Thanks for the advise, we will be using a hd v-rod belt.
This is a 150teeth belt so longer then the original roadstar belt.
If the tension wil not keep up because it is to long i will make a belt tensioner.
Frame is specialy made on this length of the belt.
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Re:removing the oiltank, let the oil go through frame 3 Years, 2 Months ago
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Erbman02 wrote:
I got some info that is food for thought for ya. someone that did a mod as well. I asked about removing the tank
it's a dry sump and has to have a holding reservoir. The thing he does need to address is that the R* motor flows a lot of volume. Those metal tubes on the stock bike is a good example. There 7/16" in the ID. Whatever lines he chooses to use need to be NO smaller than 3/8" on the ID and the stock pump should be fine and the frame needs to hold at least 3 qt..
Thanks for this info, really helpfull.
Now you are the second that tells me that the original oilpump is strong enough.
This is a good thing, this so i know the advise is more reliable.
For these lines i have to go search for suitable ones.
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