I recently completed a 1600 mile journey over a 3 day period and noticed on the second day of the trip I was getting worse fuel mileage than day one and I had noticed more fuel than it normally leaked out on the motor when I refueled.The third day brought hard starts and worse mileage and even more fuel leaking and smell.I have read as many of the threads on here that I can find pertaining to this issue and have come to the conclusion that for some reason the float level has changed during the trip.I wasnt aware that that could happen on its own without actually bending the tab but,that is my educated guess on the issue.I let the bike set a couple days after I got home and the bike fired right up with the choke pulled out all the way and the bike went to its normal higher rpm idle for 15 to 20 seconds.I then noticed the bike just fell on its face and started sputtering and died.I removed the stock air cleaner and let the bike cool down for an hour and restarted the bike.Same thing after 15 to 20 seconds of idling but,I watched the carb to see what was happening.Fuel started pouring from the Pilot Air Jet(I looked at the schematic to make sure which was which.The left one is Main Air Jet(Plugged) and the right one on the bell of the carb is the Pilot Air Jet as I understand it?.I apoligize for my limited knowledge of this particualr carb.So,I removed the carb after many hours of research from this site(many thanks)and have removed the bowl and found no dirt,crud or slime in the bowl area.Clean as a whistle on the inside.According to what I have read here the float appears to be at the correct height if measuring to the back tower on the carb body from the float itself.I am assuming this method of measuring will suffice for a starting point.I removed the main jet and noticed it was clean as well(size is 165)pilot jet looked to be 32.5 but the numbers were not real clear.Im not sure if that is the correct number on it so take it for what its worth.I did notice that there is a white residue on the o-ring around the needle and seat valve assembly.Im guessing that this is the remnants of the ethanol that is added to the fuels that is causing this???I am at a standstill as to what to try next.I have bought the 2k heat resistant tape that I will install on the boawl and the fuel line before reinstalling the carb but, was wondering since I have the carb off should I go to the local dealership and buy a new needle and seat assembly?Should I just have them do a clean and rebuild?I would really like to solve this with the help of the community if at all possible.I looked over the intake and I found a few small cracks but none seem to be very deep.I will use some black high heat silicone to fill the cracks before reinstalling the carb just to ease my mind.I pulled the back plugs and found them to be completely black and sooty.Very very rich condition as you can imagine.I wanted to add that I have not recently added anything aftermarket to the bike.The bike has a set of older cobra pipes but I am not exactly sure of the model as they were on the bike when I purchased it.I can tell you they are not straight pipes and they do have mufflers on both pipes.Other than that the bike is stock as far as I know.I look forward to any advice on this issue.Sorry for the long post but, I wanted to try and get all the information in just one post.Thanks...

Your diagnosis sounds very reasonable. I would change the needle and seat if there is any indication of wear or distortion on the needle.

Ok, just got finished putting the carb back on after applying the heat reflective tape to the bowl area and fuel line.Decided to see if just the cleaning I did and checking the float level on the work bench(Which seemed to be level with the back of the bowl mating surface) made any difference.Pulled the plugs and cleaned the black soot off of them.Reinstalled said plugs and wires rechecked all my connections as far as replacing tank and wiring.Turned the fuel on pulled the choke all the way out and touched the start buton and she fired right up at the correct rpm for warming the bike up and ran for 10 to 15 secs then fuel starts dumping from the usual place and the vent that is near the top of the carb at an alarming rate.Shut off bike and cleaned up all the fuel.So, I turned the fuel petcock to off and let the bike set a bit.Pulled the choke with the fuel shut off and the bike fired right up and ran and idled great....10...15....20 secs and no fuel running out anywhere.I let it run until it started to die so I turned the fuel back on and 10 secs later fuel starts pouring out again from the same places on the carb.A Eureka moment!!!I believe the fuel pump is to be the culprit here.So, I rinse and repeat a few more times and the same scenerio repeated itself.So, I guess my next step is to order the Suzuki needle valve assembly,high flow Petcock and reroute the fuel line that has been described in other post and shuck the fuel pump.Im guessing this will cure the constant fuel puking issue once and for all.If, anyone has any other suggestions before I follow the path that I have laid out I would be grateful to hear any and all suggestions.I will watch for suggestions and post the results once I get the modifications completed.BTW which online source would have all the parts needed to complete the modifications?I have a yamaha dealer 45 minutes away but, would prefer ordering them online if at all possible...

For whatever reason your needle valve isn't stopping the fuel flow. It could be the pump not shutting off and the pressure is pushing it open or it's just a bad valve.

Since you are going to do the fuel pump delete and replace the valve anyway you may as well get the Grizzly 660 valve. Someone came up with a better flowing and less expensive needle valve to the Suzuki valves. It's from a Yamaha Grizzly 660 ATV. The biggest Suzuki valve has a 2.5 mm opening and the Grizzly has a 3.0. You can order the Grizzly from Boats.net for about $30 including shipping. Part# 5KM-14190-30-00 (New number is 2C6-14190-30-00)
If you still want the Suzuki valve the best price is usually on ebay.

Thankyou for the info.Will get that ordered today.Hopefully I'll get the bike back out by next weekend

Ok, finally got over a nasty cold and got to the garage today.Removed the fuel pump,fuel filter and fuel line.Replaced the needle and seat with the Grizzly 660 needle and seat.Replaced the metal fuel line with a 5/16" fuel line and double wrapped it in 2k heat reflective tape.Changed the fuel filter with a russel high flow fuel filter and set the float level to spec.Temp was 96 here in the desert today so,finally a brk from the heat....Road the bike 3 times each a little longer and harder than the first.Last trip was down the 15 towards Vegas at 110 for several miles.Wot thru the gears no hesitation or sputtering and to my surprise the bike seems to have a bit more umph than before.After each ride I checked for signs of fuel leaking and found there to be none.Hopefully this has fixxed my carb puking once and for all.Since I was in the mood decided to tackle the oil change as well.I couldnt believe how black the oil had gotten after my 1600 mile 3 day trip.I suppose the rich condition had something to do with that.But the oil is clean now and bike just needs a little detailing and I believe it is ready for the road again.I would like to thank everyone for the help and for the accumulated knowledge that has been amassed here on the forum. Happy riding to everyone

playinmaniac wrote:
Ok, finally got over a nasty cold and got to the garage today.Removed the fuel pump,fuel filter and fuel line.Replaced the needle and seat with the Grizzly 660 needle and seat.Replaced the metal fuel line with a 5/16" fuel line and double wrapped it in 2k heat reflective tape.Changed the fuel filter with a russel high flow fuel filter and set the float level to spec.Temp was 96 here in the desert today so,finally a brk from the heat....Road the bike 3 times each a little longer and harder than the first.Last trip was down the 15 towards Vegas at 110 for several miles.Wot thru the gears no hesitation or sputtering and to my surprise the bike seems to have a bit more umph than before.After each ride I checked for signs of fuel leaking and found there to be none.Hopefully this has fixxed my carb puking once and for all.Since I was in the mood decided to tackle the oil change as well.I couldnt believe how black the oil had gotten after my 1600 mile 3 day trip.I suppose the rich condition had something to do with that.But the oil is clean now and bike just needs a little detailing and I believe it is ready for the road again.I would like to thank everyone for the help and for the accumulated knowledge that has been amassed here on the forum. Happy riding to everyone
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Glad to see you got it running better.

BTW,post instlling new needle & seat & insualting some of fuel system did you try to see if fuel still come out of pilot jet/area when usuing full choke?

You didnt mention you looked for fuel comming out this time arround post installing new needle & seat with full choke but you did state you checked for fuel running out with full choke when you verified float lvl was ok with original needle & seat.

I am asking this because the cold enrichment system/not really a choke on R* is very very rich at the full & 3/4 setting and i would not be surprised at all if you checked to see if fuel came out of pilort jet ares with full choke with new needle & seat that it would do the same thing.

If you get a chance chk it out and let us know if thats the case when you use same full choke for same amount of time to see if fuel still comes out pilot jet like if did with original needle & after you verified flaot lvl was ok. fuul choke/cold stat enrichment overloads the carb/carbs circuts with excessive amount of fuel that can at times finds it way out of placres like the pilot circut/external pilot and or idle air jet etc.

But using full choke on a R* in anyhting over like 30 deg f or colder is way too much /too rich & not needed at all. I never ever need to use full choke to start the R* ,max cold start enrichment i find is needed is with 1/2 choke max for 5-8 seocnds max (starts fast even in 40-50 deg temp @ 1/2 choke & close to stock carb setup with minimal tweak for pipes only) ,then back off the 1/4 choke for approx 30 sec's while all this time holding throttle at approx 1800rpms or so.

Then post approx 30 second 1/4 choke at 1800rpm push in choke/enrichement knob and feather throttle untill warmed up enough to cleanly take the throttle when you slowly give it some gas enough so that you feel you can take off.

Many people choke the heck out ofthe R* when cold starting putting choke on all te way or 3/4 in summer temps and walking away to load the bike,put helmet on etc.

Doing that can quckly carbon up combustion chambers/valves & stems/pistons that could eventually over time lead to fuel fouled/carboned up plugs or worse yet SVS and you dont what that.

Just my $.02 on that one.

Scott