Good luck. When i was having problems with my 1300, they wouldn't let me talk to a tech directly; i had to tell them my problem, they'd talk to the tech about it, then they'd tell me what was decided. The best results i had were from talking with a person named Steven Hamilton in Atlanta, 800-962-7926 ext 7127.

Thanks Hatch. You must be one tenacious dude!

Just tried the wd40 test for intake leaks. Nothing.

I've spent time checking my exhaust for leaks. Nothing.

I did tighten up the intake boots a bit.

But I can say the more I ride it, the more I think it's the TPS. If I give it just a tiny twist up when it starts to sputter, no problem. And to stop the sputter on the decel, I have to let it all the way off. Then the sputter stops until I try to hold constant speed again.

Still working through this... what a pain!

Just did a 200 mile ride today. 80 mph give or take the whole way.

When my R* goes through something like that it idles way high when I stop. Anyone else experience this?

alltimeqb wrote:
Just did a 200 mile ride today. 80 mph give or take the whole way.

When my R* goes through something like that it idles way high when I stop. Anyone else experience this?

Few things come to knd when that happens.

1) throttle didnt return all the way,maybe needs clable adj ?

2) Since it's a FI motor maybe after running it hard at that speed for a while it puts it into a diff fuel curve for leaner idle mixture ot higher idle speed even though it should have no reson to do that.

3) possibly the ign timing didnt back off at lower engine speed when returing to idle after the hard run.

4) Maybe TPS is on edge of proper adj so when bike/motor/cable/throttle linkage are all heated up & the metal they are made of or are attached to has expanded a few .0001 thes making the idle higher.

If you now got your bike running much better in all other aspects/throttle positons other then a high idle post fast cruise speeds i'd leave that alone esp if it will go back to normal idle post shutting it down and refiring a little while later after it cooled down some.

BTW,my 06 silverado with carb did the same thing when i took it on my 1st trip and was cruising in the 70-75 mph range for 1.5 hrs or so (31T pulley = rpm at cruise then 32T pulley) when i stopped for a quick break where it idled considerably higher then normal (approx 1,200rpm vs 950-1k rpm)),didnt bother going after that issue becasue it wasnt a big deal and bike/motor ran fine ither then that .

Likely some fine tweaking on PMS or pilot jet/circut would cure that but since it runs so well other then that i am leaving well enough alone at this point since these stock R* carbs can be such a PIa at times to get calibrated correctly in the 1st place. It's close enough for rock & roll for me when it seems to run well at all other times.

Scott

Thanks Scott.

Throttle cable does have a bit of play in it, I'll check it.

I see that the TPS has a painted mark on the outside screw. Looks like the marks are lined-up pretty well.

I'm going to give the carb boots another twist or two to get them even more tight. Last bike I had ran like crap when I went to look at it. Took a gamble and was relieved to find out that the carb boots were loose.

Anyway, it seems(?) like the sputtering may have gotten a tiny but more controllable after the last tightening I did to the boot clamps.

If there is anything I can do with the stock map, I'd love to know. Maybe the Yamaha guy that Hatch talked to can help... I'll let y'all know.

If your concerned about the TPS, just unplug it and see how it runs, the ignitor will default to WOT so the only thing you may notice is an uneven idle.

I'll give it a try, thanks Flash.

I'll have to wait for the weekend. My truck puked throught the water pump seal on Saturday so I'm stuck with driving the bike to a two day off site. Don't want to upset anything until that's out of the way

Got the O2 sensor today.

These come with a standard length lead but the rear cylinder requires about 8" more lead so I cut it and soldered in some extension wires. My concern here is changing the wire capacitance/resistance. The wire I cut in was copper but the leads from the OEM O2 sensor are not.

Does anyone think this will cause an issue??

Rode the Road* to work yesterday and with the 2nd O2 sensor plugged in... (finger's crossed/knock on wood) it appears as though the sputtering issue is gone.

I am not willing to say that it's fixed until I've been able to put 2 or 3 hundred miles on it but it did not happen yesterday at all.

It'll probably take some miles to clean up the plugs in the cylinder that didn't have an O2 sensor but after that you should be good to go.

As far as splicing the O2 sensor wires the important thing is that there be no big resistance jump in the splice or the added wires. The O2 sensors work with very low voltage so the circuit has to be secure. What you did shouldn't hurt anything at all.

Scott B.