What i think is happening in many casses is the ethenol can be corrosive in certain environments where phase separation (when fuel starts to go bad) and thats when the very thin little metal brushes that ride on circut board to register float lvl/fuel lvl in tank actually get deteriorated/corroded enough to fall off resuling in faqilure.

Thats why i run some marine grade fuel stabilizer in every tank of fuel in both bikes/my classic 69 chevelle ss 396/lawn more/etc to not only protect the fuel sender in my bike/cars from corrosion it also keeps the fuel system/carb clean and safe from corrosion along with it also keeping fuel from going bad if bike sits for a while too.

In cases where a bike (or any other vehicle/gas can) is stored in an area that has a fair amount of temp variation (creating moisture) like a small shed/small garage/or in direct sun then no sun at night with fair amount of moisture avail too that's when todays pump fuel with ethenol can start going bad in as little as 30days on avg.

I have also seen untreated ethenoled pump fuel (full tank with little to no air in tank)stored in an area with pretty stable temps and not much moisture do ok at over 1yr.
That was a 75 vette which fired right up and ran fine so my buddy lucked out with that one.

But if he had stored the car in same place with maybe a 1/4 tank with air-moisture in the tank it would have like been a diff story.

In that case with the air/mositure that's avail in 3/4 of the empty portion of the tank could react with the ethenol in the fuel which would have likely resulted in the 1/4 tank of fuel going bad in that 1 yr period gumming up fuel system.

So use marine grade sta-bil and it should help extend the srv'c life of the fuel guage sending unit along with also keeping the fuel system clean and fuel is always treated so will not go bad on you either esp when getting into end of season for us guys in the north east.

Use .5oz with every full tank in season riding and 1oz for filling up with fresh fuel when storing the bike for off season which is key,always store any motor vehicle with a full tank of FRESH properly treated fuel. You cant over treat with marine grade sta-bil per mfg so no reason to accidentially undertreat fuel resulting in fuel going bad which can happen so give it a good dose!!!

The worst thin you can do is throw stable in a 1/4-1/2 tankfull of fuel thats already been sitting 3-4-5 months or so and think you your covered,your not becuase the fuel was already going bad before you tretaed it which will greatly reduce amount of time fuel will stay ok.

I bought the lrg bottle of marine grade sta-bil on sale for $16.99 which covers me all yr long which is worth every penny for reasons mentioned above.

I am not a fan of the less concentrated red colored/std type stable thats not labeled NEW /Improved.

That's because it was too weak before that imprvement and didnt alway's keep fuel stable like it should have which is why it needed to be improved to begin with.

But the marine grade sta-bil is considerably more concentrated then std sta-bil is to deal with the harsh cond boats are stored in with more temp changes/more moisture avail it can always handle the job when most bikes are stored/run.

Happy motoring!!!!!

Scott

I have only seen them listed as entire units as well. I think with the amount of them that have gone bad Yamaha might want to take a look at the design too.

Scottw that's some good info, and it sucks to think that we should have to stabilize every tank of gas.

The -01-00 denotes some sort of change or upgrade from the original part -00-00.They may have fixed or at least tried to improve the problem with these things. Lets hope they don't require a -02-00.

Curt wrote:
The -01-00 denotes some sort of change or upgrade from the original part -00-00.They may have fixed or at least tried to improve the problem with these things. Lets hope they don't require a -02-00.

Actually, now that you mention it, the site I pulled that from did note is was a supersession. One can only hope the new design finally addressed all the issues. But was sucks most is, things are just so tight right now that I can't afford a new unit, so I have to put my old/failed unit back on the bike after I'm done painting, and here I'd hoped it would be a one time deal... the disassembly that is. Oh well... what are you gonna do?

What i think is happening in many casses is the ethenol can be corrosive in certain environments where phase separation (when fuel starts to go bad) and thats when the very thin little metal brushes that ride on circut board to register float lvl/fuel lvl in tank actually get deteriorated/corroded enough to fall off resuling in faqilure.
Scott what happened to mine was the brushes where bent up enough to not make contact with the circuit board. I bent them back and then the gauge would work till I put gas in it then for at least half the tank not work again. I Didn't see any corrosion on them. I wonder now though if I saw it at the beginning before the corrosion became noticeable.
Either way it's still not working, but I don't really care.

Thom mine does the same,reads full when u first fill it then starts 2 head back towards half full within 50k's.By 100k's showing empty so i go by my trip meter aswell.I'll fix it 1 day lol

Just do like the old days keep an eye on the milage hell i had bikes that did'nt have speed'O's

I bought one a month ago for 68.50 shipped. took almost 2 weeks to get it but it turned out the light. Now need to reglue the needle so it reads properly.