Does anyone have a explanation why the bike lurches when you use yamalube 20w40 when you put it into gear? The clutch is adjusted to the specs given in the owners manual and the problem goes away when the oil warms. can only speculate the oil is too thick between the plates but then why would yamaha recommend its use? The 10w30 does not cause this at cooler temps but it cant hack the higher temps...any suggestions?

Thanks

If the bike has been sitting for a while, such as overnight, when you first put it into gear the bike will lurch forward. This is normal.

Just pull in and let go of the clutch lever a few times before putting it into gear. This will lubricate the clutch plates and you takeoff will be smoother.

I would also suggest dumping the dino oil and going synthetic.

Doc

Thanks for your post. Judging by your ride, you sound like a man who knows what he is doing! I had been toying with the idea of changing to a synthetic but need to find a grade that can handle temps between 10'c to about 45'c, and one that does not contain the anti friction modifiers found in automotive oils.

What improvenments do you find with the synthetic vs factory oils?

Best regards,

Andrew

Andrew,

Most of the time I don't know what I'm doing, I just muddle through and fake it.

Mention the word 'oil' and you'll get a ton of opinions.

Here are some to get you started ....

http://www.yft.org/tex_vfr/tech/oil.htm
http://www.xs11.com/stories/mcnoil94.htm
http://www.thegreatwhiteknight.com/motorcycle_motor_oil.htm

Here's an explaination of the API label

http://www.finalube.com/reference_material/API_Engine_Oil_Classifications.htm
http://www.motor.com/MAGAZINE/Articles/112002_05.htm

And here's mine .....

- As long as as it meets the Yamaha API service specs SE or higher, any brand will do.
- Change oil as recommended if running dino, longer if running syn
- Stay within the recommended viscosity range, probably 20W40 for you (I note that you are using 'C' rather than 'F'. You in Canada? If you, were the hell in Canada does it not get lower than 10 C ???? )
- Run motorcyle or car oil as long long as the API label does not specify "Energy Conserving".

That's my opinion and I'm sticking to it.

I switched to syn because I can go a little longer between changes. I stayed with syn 'cause I noticed a slightly quieter engine with it. But it does cost me 4 times dino oil.

I run Mobil red cap (which they have changed to gold in some areas) which is a 15W50 car oil. I tried the comparable Valvoline syn once (I think it was 5W50) to get better cold weather performance (I ride between -5 and 35 C) but the engine was noisier at warmer temps. I believe that I also used Castrol once but my memory fails me on that one.

Doc<br><br>Post edited by: DocShadow, at: 2006/01/08 10:37

(talk like cave man to understand)
ugg.. Me Grog like Amzoil... run synth in everything grog own..No like dyno oil, gives grog gas.. mobil one in cars... amzoil v-twin in rockcycle... ugg.. me grog now go hit wife with club...<br><br>Post edited by: davehrn, at: 2006/01/08 11:08

hey jensen, i ride an 02 r* and just last weekend i changed tho oil and filter.i also went to mobil one 15/50(im in texas).then went for a 5 hour ride.the bike seemed smoother and somewhat quieter to me.i had a vstar before the roadie and i ran synth in it also with very good results. so there's my 2 cents worth. biggame.