Andrew,

Most of the time I don't know what I'm doing, I just muddle through and fake it.

Mention the word 'oil' and you'll get a ton of opinions.

Here are some to get you started ....

http://www.yft.org/tex_vfr/tech/oil.htm
http://www.xs11.com/stories/mcnoil94.htm
http://www.thegreatwhiteknight.com/motorcycle_motor_oil.htm

Here's an explaination of the API label

http://www.finalube.com/reference_material/API_Engine_Oil_Classifications.htm
http://www.motor.com/MAGAZINE/Articles/112002_05.htm

And here's mine .....

- As long as as it meets the Yamaha API service specs SE or higher, any brand will do.
- Change oil as recommended if running dino, longer if running syn
- Stay within the recommended viscosity range, probably 20W40 for you (I note that you are using 'C' rather than 'F'. You in Canada? If you, were the hell in Canada does it not get lower than 10 C ???? )
- Run motorcyle or car oil as long long as the API label does not specify "Energy Conserving".

That's my opinion and I'm sticking to it.

I switched to syn because I can go a little longer between changes. I stayed with syn 'cause I noticed a slightly quieter engine with it. But it does cost me 4 times dino oil.

I run Mobil red cap (which they have changed to gold in some areas) which is a 15W50 car oil. I tried the comparable Valvoline syn once (I think it was 5W50) to get better cold weather performance (I ride between -5 and 35 C) but the engine was noisier at warmer temps. I believe that I also used Castrol once but my memory fails me on that one.

Doc<br><br>Post edited by: DocShadow, at: 2006/01/08 10:37