Chill out,nobodys trying to say theres something wrong with your bike!

All the R*'s do have oil mist that comes from crankcase/valve cover breather that can foul the air filter,thats a known issue with these bikes,the harder you push/run the bike the more oil mist can be pushed out.

Also keep in mind in nmost cases more oil will be in mist from crankcase breather when running ligher oil like 10-40 vs heavier 20-50 too.

What i was reffering to with only 1700 miles on his bike was it should not be pushing out so much oil out of breather from vent tube comming off valve cover because if it was doing that with a normal 4 qt oil lvl that would indicate a problem with ring seal/excesse blowby which r* is not known for having issues & dont think its an issue in this case either.

I did not see any ref to the original poster bothering to chk oil lvl (per yamahas rec oil chk proceedure i posted for him to try that works ok) before changing oil to verify if it was in fact overfilled enough to cause the problem before wasting the time/money to change oil just to ensure there were 4qts in system.

Just dont get that line of thinking when all you have to do is take 5 mins to use yamaha's rec oil chk proceedure that works well enough to get an accurate enough reading to tell if oil was overfilled enough to cause the problem.

Without checking oil prior to changing oil or not measuring oil that was removed from crankcase/oil tankg/oil filter that took away any chance of telling for sure what happend here weahter it be overfilled crankcase or over oil K&N ,case closed there.

On the k&n overfill,last time,i have seen K&N's over oiled in R*'s and you will see oil that drained out of air filter hosuing etc and it will sometimes look ok when inspecting later because all the excessive oil has already ran out of the filter & filter hosuing all over the motor/pipes.

But you have to realize the evidence the K&N was over oiled isnt in the filter and filter housing anymore because all the excess oil had drained out all over the motor at that point which i had do fix 1st hand and it does exactly what been described here.

Any excess oil that may have been in the K&N itself has also been sucked into motor by then too after riding the 400 miles he said he rode post bike service.

Too bad he never bothered to properly chk oil before changing it so he/we would have known if in fact it was an overfilled crankcase or an over oiled filer so he could let the dealer know wich they screwed up & maybe do something for him like.

But his problem had to be either an over oiled filter or over fill crankcase thats for sure niehter of which can be confirmed because (unless i missed it) the original poster never stated he checked the oil using yamaha's proper oil chk proceedure prior to changing the oil unless i missed it.

Scott

though i didn't post that I checked the oil prior to changing it again, I did in fact follow the procedure you detailed and found the oil almost to the top of the crosshatched area on the stick. Since you said it should only come 1/3 to 1/2 way up it seemed to be too much. I did just reoil the filter today, because I had it off to clean the airbox anyway, and I'm letting it drip off hanging on a rack off of the bike.

When i had the recall work done on my tranny/ new rings, the shop plugged the breather hose back into the air filter housing and i was getting the same problem as you.All you have to do is get a piece of hose that will allow you to let any oil comming from the valve cover to drip out behind the motor so you don't have to clean your bike every 500 miles.I have a 2000 but it's the same thing, also the k&n big air will draw oil from the valve cover if the hose is attached to the back of the air box instead of run out the back.then as always , when it's time to change your oil it's 4quarts out and 4 quarts in thats it.

SPUDWRENCH12 wrote:
When i had the recall work done on my tranny/ new rings, the shop plugged the breather hose back into the air filter housing and i was getting the same problem as you.All you have to do is get a piece of hose that will allow you to let any oil comming from the valve cover to drip out behind the motor so you don't have to clean your bike every 500 miles.I have a 2000 but it's the same thing, also the k&n big air will draw oil from the valve cover if the hose is attached to the back of the air box instead of run out the back.then as always , when it's time to change your oil it's 4quarts out and 4 quarts in thats it.

So just extend the hose down away from the motor? I was thinking of trying to add a crankcase filter like River suggested, just not sure where to route it to. Could I just extend it down toward the ground without making a mess somewhere else on the bike?

Penguin wrote:
SPUDWRENCH12 wrote:
When i had the recall work done on my tranny/ new rings, the shop plugged the breather hose back into the air filter housing and i was getting the same problem as you.All you have to do is get a piece of hose that will allow you to let any oil comming from the valve cover to drip out behind the motor so you don't have to clean your bike every 500 miles.I have a 2000 but it's the same thing, also the k&n big air will draw oil from the valve cover if the hose is attached to the back of the air box instead of run out the back.then as always , when it's time to change your oil it's 4quarts out and 4 quarts in thats it.

So just extend the hose down away from the motor? I was thinking of trying to add a crankcase filter like River suggested, just not sure where to route it to. Could I just extend it down toward the ground without making a mess somewhere else on the bike?
=======================================

I'd mount it to 1 side of frame so any oil mist that could possibly be pushed out of breather tube would not be straight in line with the rear tire to be blown back on it .

Just imagine riding in the rain with oil mist being blown back on the rear tire,that could be a bit scary to say the least./LOL!!!!

Could run a longer hose with small crankcase filter along frame to exit just behind rear tire avoding that issue all together keeping most all oil vapor/mist off the bike & rear tire too.

Scott

Penguin wrote:
though i didn't post that I checked the oil prior to changing it again, I did in fact follow the procedure you detailed and found the oil almost to the top of the crosshatched area on the stick. Since you said it should only come 1/3 to 1/2 way up it seemed to be too much. I did just reoil the filter today, because I had it off to clean the airbox anyway, and I'm letting it drip off hanging on a rack off of the bike. ===============

FYI,i am not trying to be a pia but if you have to let the oil drip off your K&N after cleaning & re-applying oil you applied way too much oil.

You should never have to let it drip dry,again,it takes me litterally a couple seconds to fully oil the K&N for the R*.

BTW, have been running K&N's on all my bikes & classic muscle cars over the past 40+ yrs ive been wrenching them & have that 41+ yrs exprience with cleaning/oiling K&N's.

When i kleened & oiled the 1st K&N filters i had on the Kawaski h1 500 triple i had as the time i also over oiled them having oil dripping on the motor etc due to inexperience with oiling them.

I learend over time/expernece what correct application of oil was for the K&N's to not overoil but still be enough oil for the K&N to do its job.

Scott

Penguin wrote:
though i didn't post that I checked the oil prior to changing it again, I did in fact follow the procedure you detailed and found the oil almost to the top of the crosshatched area on the stick. Since you said it should only come 1/3 to 1/2 way up it seemed to be too much. I did just reoil the filter today, because I had it off to clean the airbox anyway, and I'm letting it drip off hanging on a rack off of the bike.
=============

Ah,ok,now it makes sence why ya changed the oil.

You should let the stealership know they overfilled oil by just a bit,maybe .3-.5 qt too much.

Scott

It didn't really drip, the guy at the dealer had said to let it sit for awhile before reinstalling, so I did. Ran a K&N in my VW for years, but being in an air box, if it did drip, I wasn't going to see the mess. I really don't think this one needed to be cleaned, I just did it since it was off so I could clean up the oily mess all over the bike. Thanks for all the help, this seems to be a good place to bring my questions.

Rode about 30 miles in town last night, no signs of oil when I parked it. That makes me feel a bit better.
Thanks again

Rerouted the breather as per the "Erbman Method" from the tech articles, worked like a champ. Over 1000 miles and haven't seen another f'n drop. Thant you so much everyone, scary shit when your new ride starts screwing up, good to know there's people to help.

Penguin wrote:
Rerouted the breather as per the "Erbman Method" from the tech articles, worked like a champ. Over 1000 miles and haven't seen another f'n drop. Thant you so much everyone, scary shit when your new ride starts screwing up, good to know there's people to help.

Penguin, I didn't take the time to explain why I think the K&N filter allows more vacuum that the OEM filter.

I bought the 1700 '09 Roadstar new old stock off the showroom floor with zero miles. I put about three hundred mile on the bike then decided to put a K&N filter that fits the stock airbox on.

As soon as I did that, when I would gear down at a light, then leave out the engine would smoke like hell. I took the airbox back off and everything was soaked in oil and oil had collected in the breather box enough to run out on the ground.

When I put the K&N on, the stock OEM filter was clean and white with no oil presence in the airbox at all.

So in conclusion, on a brand new engine, putting on the K&N filter does indicate that a hell of a lot more air flows through a K&N filter than the stock air filter so that when you gear down there is a hell of a lot more vacuum, enough to pull oil out of the engine enough to make it smoke because its burning oil coming through the air filter.

K&N says their filter draws in more air, more air creates more vacuum in the airbox.

Back in the day, before all the smog crap, the cars used a downdraft tube to suck air contaminates from the crank case, the down draft tube was always slash cut so that the tube would form a vacuum from the air flowing past the down draft tube. Now they use carb or throttle body vacuum to do the same job.

It really isn't necessary to use a fuel line hose as long as the hose doesn't collapse in a bend in the hose somewhere.

So basically, what I think needs to be done here is to slashcut a very short piece of hard line hose and insert that into the 3/8 hose and into the cranckcase filter and have it pointed down toward the ground with the longest side of the slash cut pointing toward the front of the bike so that a vacuum is formed when air flows past that hose.

If this vacuum is not allowed to form...say by using a square cut hose..the oil gets hot and contaminates emanate off the hot oil and it etches the metal it contacts inside the crank case.

Four stroke engines haven't changed since they made four stroke engines...they are still four stroke...So what I think is happening is that these guys who reroute their hoses to point out or whatever on a square cut hose...are allowing contaminates to build up in their engines.

Now I may be wrong..but I'm not concerned with oil mist here..I am concerned with the contaminates that rises off hot oil. The best way is to use the vacuum off the carb or throttle body, but if that has to be disconnected, there needs to be a vacuum coming from somewhere to that hose. Otherwise these contaminate rising from hot oil in the crank case can etch metals such as rod journals and piston walls.

Somebody tell me where I am wrong here.