I had to put a TORS switch on it like they say to do on the tech helps here, since the Mic carb's don't have the mount for it on the carb body. It worked flawlessly when I put the carb and everything else on...

For you gear heads, could it have something to do with the rings since it will turn over without plugs or a real bad case of svs. Im not good with motors but just throwing out the odd things.

My bad.. I ment I had to install a VOEHS switch because I changed to the Mic Flat slide Carb

lose the VOES and try it you don't need it anyway with the mikuni hsr

sonset wrote:
- Jumped accross the starter solenoid and touched a jump pack + striaght on the + of the starter
with same result. Just a 1/2 turn of the engine then dead stop.

-When I said this I mean I touched the Jump Pack Alligator Clamp striaght to the Post of the Starter it self, therefore eliminating all stock wiring from the bike. The Negative of the Jump box I clamped striaght to the frame of the bike and as you know the starter motor mount for the Roadstar is it's own ground, grounding thru the engine case and then obviously the frame.

-Even after draining the oil down below the High mark, it still is having the same issue.
==================

Ok,since you hooked your jumper box right on the starter and it's still not turning over well thats 1 of 2 issues as long as you had good ground and + connection on starter itself and the jumper box battery isnt weak too.

* Compression relase solenoid isnt working properly or at all not releasing compression so motor can start. The elec starter /system on the R* isnt stong/robust enough to spin the R* motor over without relasing compression some even though it has a low 8.3 comp ratio so that compression relase must be working properly for the motor to start.

* If compressions relase solenoid/mechanism tests ok then the starter is toast.

But that depends on your jumper box battery not being weak when you hooked it directly to the starter.

To be safe i'd try jumper cables from your daily driver cars battery thats a known good battery directly to the starter on your bike to enure you havent had issues with test batteries that your not aware of before spending $$ for a new starter.

Also,most starters have a spec for amps drawn that is used to determine if its bad so look for that info and you can test that with starter still on the bike. If the starter draws close to or more amps then its spec'd to noramlly draw when in good cond then its bad.

Should also ensure the battery's fully charged so it can be load tested at the same time you have starter checked to ENSURE its ok too.

That way you will truely know if it's a bad starter ,bad-weak battery, or maybe both need to be replaced!

Scott

this is all confusing.

the bike WILL turn over with the starter while the spark plugs are removed?

two things. light sand or light file the top of the batt terminals and cable lugs. take the ground wire off the the oil tower and clean both pieces. the two connections on the relay, sand or light file and dilectric grease on everything. and I dont think that decompression lever is going all the way in. you can take the cam cover off while on the side stand and not leak oil. (to push on the decom pins while cranking) and you'll need a gasket.
Just my .02
jees 9 months.

OK, now you have my attention. Has this been fixed yet?

Be sure and check where the ground cable {negative} from the battery connects to frame they corrode internally and cause irritating problems. I check this by hooking up a booster cable from the negative side of the battery and then the other end to a good ground on the frame then firing it over . Sometimes the little things can drive you crazy. The hot terminal you talked about tells me it is a bad ground.

No I have not gotten it fixed yet..
Had verified jump pack batt is good
Had cleaned batt connections
Elec greased connections
Verified decomp sylinoid working correctly
Held decomp shaft in by hand