Tom,

Do you have a contact (phone# or website) for the blower maker?
Is it already installed?
Did you buy the bike with the blower or install yourself?
Is it running OK?

I could contact the maker and ask a few questions?

Jim

Tom,

Jim (Bucardo) pioneered the process of adapting a VOES onto a Road Star to replace the TPS. He Pioneered because know one knew how to do it, and he wanted to solve the problem.

He knows more about it than anyone I know of.

I would take him up on the offer he has made.

GRAM

Thank you for your offer and will greatly appreciate any info you might come up with.
All the work to my RS I did my self and to my friends as well. I installed the supercharger this time last year and ran it through the summer with no problems although I didn't have the Dyna 3000 in it at first and she did not run very will but did make a big deference afterwards.(currently set at curve 30A /6 deg retard) Was going to try 32A when I get it all back together any suggestions on that?

The manufacturer of the blower is MAGACHARGER out of Orland, CA.(530)865-7010
Email magna@inreach.com
Owner: Bill
Assen: Rafael (who typical answers to the phone)and no web site as of yet.
Rafael seem to be as helpful as he can but I may not be asking the right questions.
Perhaps reaching Bill may prove better as he is the one I believe does the R&D on his product.

Any other info I can give, even reguarding spec's on my bike let me know,

Thanks again for going out of you way for this! Sound like I might get the machine tuned to a tee this summer.<br><br>Post edited by: BlownStar, at: 2006/03/18 14:20

Good news Tom,

First, they have a website under construction with some info:
http://www.magnacharger.us/inst1.htm

Even better, they have some discussion on the installation of the blower for the Harley. They recommend a VOES (Harley has used these for years) and it appears a good setting is .5&quot; (fast retard on throttle twist, makes sense to me). I'm betting they aren't aware anyone has retro-fitted a VOES for a Road* with a Dyna, but would highly recommend it based on the following excerpt from their Harley installation instructions:

-----------------------------------------------------------
This system is designed to use an electronic ignition that has the ability to be retarded automatically by either a V.O.E.S. switch that is on all late model bikes or a pressure switch. The reason for this is, the engine is running at 8.5-1 compression when NOT in boost and immediately goes to 10.5-1 when you aggressively twist the throttle and requires less advance or lead so no advance weight type ignitions. It's the 90's and technology is your friend…

If you plan to run pump gas the engine must be 8.5-1 or less compression ratio or you will need to run race gas all the time. Every 3 LBS of boost equals about 1 compression point. That means an 8.5-1 with 8-10 LBS of boost is now 3 points higher or about 11-1 when you are on it hard and on pump gas this is about as far as you can go!

In some isolated cases there are three things that will kill blower motors:

1. Timing, detonation or poor fuel. Simply retard the timing until knock is gone. Harley saved some money by retarding only the rear cylinder so if you plan to ride aggressively put a Dyna 2009 HDE-1 module in for better ignition and get an adjustable rev limiter.

2. Backfire or sneeze. Once in a while the engine may backfire, no problem but if it does this on a regular event you will hammer the rotors out of the blower. Do not drive if it backfires until you correct this!!!!!

3. Improper jetting, usually too lean at high speed, could burn a piston. Correct by installing a larger jet, this is part of tuning that needs to be done on any modifications to the engine. A larger, hi-flow petcock is always good insurance if high speed is the goal.
-----------------------------------------------------

Based on all this and assuming you're running only the Dyna WOT curves, I'll bet you're running retarded timing. The VOES should enable you to run more aggressive timing without detonation risk under fast load and produce a crisper more responsive (powerful) tuning package.

I'll try to call them this week to confirm the tuning I have in mind.

Have a few more questions:
Have you ever dyno'd your bike? Get an AFR (air/fuel ratio) reading?
What boost are you running? Any detonation/knock under load?
What compression ratio are your pistons?
I'll also need your jet settings (main, pilot &amp; needle) and HSR model (42, 45, 48?).

Jim<br><br>Post edited by: Bucardo, at: 2006/03/19 23:47

Steve,

Thank you for your gracious comments.
Good to hear from you.

BTW, getting close to finishing the project, thought you might like to see a preview

Whoops, must be doing somehting wrong, can't attach the pic??

Try it another way, here's a link to the pic:

http://www.star230.com/gallerydb.asp?action=showpic&amp;recid=1516


Jim<br><br>Post edited by: DocShadow, at: 2006/03/20 12:27

Looks good!

Doc<br><br>Post edited by: DocShadow, at: 2006/03/20 12:30

Thanks Doc!

And, thanks for making the link work

Jim

Hay Jim,
Finally got a chance to set at the pc and have be anticipating a response from ya cuz I knew you would have an abundance of Info.
And it proves right, your proving to be the (Austen Coil) of motor cycles.
You may know him as the brains behind the John Force NHRA Funny car top fuel champion dragster. And if you don't know him....it's a complement.

Will I guess I'd better stop or I have to change my nick name from BlownStar to suck-up or kiss-ass.
It's just that I've never been one of those guys that act like thy know all the sh#%*@%. I see those guys all the time and are to proud to ask from one who know so therefore they'll never know sh#%@*.(kind of a vishes cycle)

If you don't mind, I would like to give you my email (tomnorment@yahoo.com) and I'll give you a toll free phone# cuz having dialog with you about this will greatly help me. I also have more questions and I know you have more for me as well.

Thanks Again

Tom.

Sounds good.

I'd like to keep the info in this thread, in case anyone else sets up a blower. I'm fascinated by the Magna charger and might consider it someday myself. It can make a lot of low end power.

I spoke with Bill for quite awhile today. He's was from SoCal and knows at least one old hot-rodder I've worked with on fuel injection. He was very helpful and shared a lot of information.

I still need the answers to the questions from my last post, but until then, here's some of what came out of today's talk:

Even though Magna's instructions call for a VOES setting and Harleys use it with the blower, Bill recommended a &quot;hobbs switch&quot;, a simple pressure switch set to 2-3psi. It will work better by retarding timing upon sensing positive pressurization (not loss of vacuum) from the blower just when it's needed. It's not that hard to source (I'm actually thinking a common 2psi jacuzzi air switch will work fine).

Bill agrees with me that you're probably running retarded timing, but he strongly advised to experiement with your dyna by bumping up your advance until you detect some detonation. This should be done &quot;under load&quot;, by short-shifting and riding up a hill. Once you have the Dyna set as far as it can go without detonation, then we can apply the Hobbs switch (I'll give you the specifics on wiring). I also think after the Hobbs switch connection, more experimenting should be done. The idea (just like on old chevy V8s) is to run as much advance as you can without detonation under load. That should take care of the ignition. Fuel is another issue...

Bill said he's working on a custom needle for an HSR42, but he's not sure when they'll have it done. Apparently, to run best, the blower needs a particular &quot;fuel curve&quot;, requiring a custom needle with a slimmed down area in half throttle or less area of the taper. Until its available, I think a richer needle and pilot may work OK erring a little on the fat side (you didn't expect to get good mileage I hope). I can probably give you those settings and part#s too. The main should be a little fat too (Bill said some of his customers on other bikes actually removed the main).

I'm guessing you may be lean now, but you're not seeing the effect of lean jetting because timing's retarded (lean jetting, retarded timing is typical emmissions tuning), but when you advance your timing, the blown motor will become much more sensitive to lean jetting, so both timing and jetting will need tuning.

If you have access to an exhaust gas analyzer (ega), it would be helpful. Bill indicated the blower can throw off readings at higher rpm, but I'm thinking of using it for idle and part throttle settings. Gram and I have the same one (Gunson Professional). I bought mine off ebay for $200. I've seen others for less. It's a very handy tuning tool.

Jim

Hey Bill,
Yea your right about keeping it on the net. Forgot about this being a tech support forum.
Well let me start by answering some of your Q:
Yes I did dyno my bike last year at a bike show down in South Carolina on a mobile dyno. The result was &quot;bad &amp; good&quot;. I'll tell you what that means in a second, Explanation first.
This time last year I had decided to do the &quot;blower&quot;, not only taking on the expense but also the unknown of what to expect...but that's also the exciting part.
So to make a long story short as possible, there was a lot of rushing around and prep work to be done, like having the blower shipped to me after it was built so I could have it polished here locally (East Coast) then ship back to West Coast) for reassembly because MagnaCharger was unable to polish in the time that I needed cuz in two week we where headed to Myrtle Beach SC Bike week (trailered down).

So needless to say the only mod to the engine was the supercharger, no Dyna ignition module, coils or even a good set of spark plugs and a stock size 40mm carb.
Running a few test runs on the road before heading south, I could tell a pretty big difference in the mid range that I had done something but the bottom end fell on its face and the top end would break up before hitting the rev limiter.

So the &quot;Bad&quot; is that it run like that on the dyno as well but the &quot;Good&quot; is that it still ran a 81hp @ a 101 pounds of torque. Not a record breaker but it really surprised me due to how poorly it was running.
Sorry but don't remember the AFR readings but I don't think it probably matters now because of the changes I'm in the proses of making to the engine.

To give you a heads up on the mod's:
Installed the dyna 3000 w/ coils, wires and autolite plugs (just after Myrtle and it made a world of difference too)
But now PCS has my cylinders and heads cuz I'm going for the 110&quot; big bore kit that will include porting and polishing the head &amp; over size valves.
The pistons will be just a bump up from stock @ 9.25:1 and PR cams.

You mentioned fuel: no I not worried about mpg ratings and yes I plan on using CAM2 as I have a couple of drums in the garage now for my big block chevelle.
but on the longer rides I'll burn that up and have to run the 92 or 93 so ya your right about playing with the timing.

The blower is geared at 9 lbs of boost. As for the the carb. I not using the existing one, although it's polished and look great, but I'm looking towards a flat slide Mikuni and at least a 45mm. Would you agree?
theirs a little more about carbs.that I'd like to ask you about, but guess I'd better wait till next time, done enough rambling on this one.

Let me know if you need more Info.....Thanks.

Tom<br><br>Post edited by: BlownStar, at: 2006/03/24 00:08