Wow, you're really going all out!

One advantage of a blower is you don't have to do all the machine work to get impressive gains (Bill stresses that blowers are a good bang for the buck compared to typical engine building costs).

It's good you didn't bump compression much.

Once you have everything done and put together, make sure you back off if it runs bad under load. Bill also stressed that the blower will blow a motor very fast and very bad if it's run hard while detonating. With loud pipes, it might be hard to tell, so if it's cutting out, assume the worst.

Also, according to Bill, the HSR42 is the preferred carb and the stock Mikuni CV can't be run without modification. Since you're not ready yet, maybe Bill will be further along with the custom tapered needle for an HSR42. He felt it was important to get the right "fuel curve".

Do an internet search for a Hobbs Switch. You'll need one which can be set for 2-3psi. As I mentioned, I think Jacuzzi air switch will work. If you're asked, it needs to be NO (normally open). I'll give the wiring specifics for the Dyna when you're ready. This should work better than a VOES.

Based on everything you're doing to the motor, I'll need to have another discussion with Bill to make sure other tuning issues don't surface with all your changes.

With all the money you're investing, another ~$200 for an EGA would be a really good idea to check the AFR at idle and just off-idle (cruise throttle position).

CAM2 fuel is good for high compression motors and burns slower (take more timing advance), but it's probably not good to set it up for that fuel when you probably will have to run premium at some point. Besides, I think it'll make more than enough power tuned for premium.

Guess that's it for now. Post back when the motor's back together.

Good luck with the build!

Jim

Hey Bill,
Thanks for your response again, real helpful hints. In fact I would like to touch on a couple of them.
You mentioned (EGA), how do I know what setting it should be at or the reading I get from the exhaust, whats good or bad.

HSR42 when your referring to the carb. what dose the HSR mean?

My current setting for the Dyna 3000 is curve 30A & 6 deg. retard. That does mean 30 degrees advanced....right.
Do you recommend me advancing it to 32A and what about the retard?

Regarding the (Hobb switch) I'll start looking it to it.

I'm hopping my cylinders & heads will be on it's way by this weeks end and then I'll start assembling. But I have just one last problem and thats the carburetor.
All of the Mikuni 45mm carbs. don't have the made on flange for my velocity stack to adapt to, and I really wont to keep it on there and really looks great.

Out of all of the Mikuni's I seen, the one I like the best was on (edelbrock.com) under motorcycle's check it out for yourself.
The problem is the largest mm thy offer is a 42mm. I don't wont to short change my self on too small of a carb.

This is what I've been thinking about or should I say fantasizing about is the dual carb. set up, maybe dual 34's or 38's. What do you thing?

Tom<br><br>Post edited by: BlownStar, at: 2006/03/26 22:32

Bucardo,

Can you give me the particulars of wiring up the VOES to replace TPS?

The thread I found on the RSR forum states connecting VOES via yellow and black/blue wires. Is that the black AND blue wires or the black with blue stripe only.

I've been trying to set the TPS up on my HSR carb and can not get it to function properly (detonation: 108CI, 11.5:1, gapless rings,ported heads, O/S valves, Speedstar cams, etc, etc).

This past weekend I hooked up a datalogger (logging A/F ratio vs RPM vs TPS signal)and when I looked at the resulting data, could not establish any direct correlation between TPS signal and RPM/load. Tried &quot;adjusting&quot; the TPS but could not get it to &quot;trip&quot; to retarded curve in time to avoid detonation.

So, basically, I've had enough. Ordered a VOES yesterday (5&quot; HG) and will install it this weekend................hopefully.

Cheers,
Kerry

Hi Bucardo,
I'd also be interested in the info on the VOES. Like where do I get it? What model number? Installation instructions? Cost?
Thanks, Tom<br><br>Post edited by: aceman, at: 2006/05/03 09:54

Hi Guys,


Madman:

It is wired to the Yellow and Black with blue stripe wire. Please post back on how aggressive you're able to set the Dyna with the VOES. I haven't installed one on 11.5:1 pistons and I'm curious. I think you're better off with the VOES. TPS is a complicated factory design set up for a CV carb and emmissions tuning (lean jetting and retarded timing). Simply adapting it to an HSR doesn't make sense to me.

I have some other suggestions, if you don't mind. You've got a lot invested in that motor and it will likely produce good peak horsepower on the dyno. I'd like to hear you're fast too.

Dynos (WOT testing with low load) can lie when it comes to &quot;how fast&quot;. Bikes with higher peak power can be overcome by bikes that make better low-mid range. The simple truth is every time we shift, we have to climb to our peak power. Better low-mid range enables running thru the gears faster. &quot;Rate of acceleration&quot; wins races, not necessarily peak power. More good reading on this at the RB Racing site:
http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/orcadyno.htm

You mentioned porting and O/S valves. This is great for WOT breathing, but the above applies again. In your case flow will improve at the cost of velocity. Low velocity will &quot;deflate&quot; your low-mid range. With modern engines, intake velocity is managed to deliver higher velocity in the low-mid range by &quot;squeezing&quot; airflow (dual length intake runners or check the Honda VFR 2-4 valve control). For a really &quot;out of the box&quot; endeavor, check out Motoman's discussion and efforts to REDUCE port sizes (with JB weld!!) to gain velocity (and power) at his site:
http://www.mototuneusa.com/

Getting the VOES set up will aid low-mid range while preserving an aggressive WOT advance curve. My observation of vacuum readings shows that the VOES will hold the CT curve most of the time, tripping only on high load (low vacuum) conditions. This is great for low-mid range. But I think you would benefit from more intake velocity to really charge thru the gears and stomp the S&amp;S/RevTech contenders. Here's how you can get it back...

I've been experimenting with a PowerNow &quot;velocity blade&quot; that inserts inside the HSR carb mouth. It isolates airflow, up to half throttle, increasing intake velocity, So far, the results are very impressive. They report 1/4 and 1/2 throttle dyno tests with gains approaching 40-50%.

On my test Roady, immediate improvement was obvious. After re-jetting and running the Dyna 36A curve set (first time I've been able to run 36A), I noticed even more improvement in acceleration rate. In a test run against another Roady with higher peak power (that used to walk away) this setup reversed our positions. I accelerated thru the gears faster, even though I had less peak power. The other bike runs an S&amp;S and two-into-one making better peak power on the Dyno.

The product was developed for dirt bikes, but last week (after a year and a half of pleading) they released an HSR version (mostly for the Harley market). I highly recommend it. You may have to re-jet and contrary to the ported intake jetting practice (jet leaner), I think you'll have to jet richer in the pilot and needle (not just clip position, but a richer needle). But, I think jetting richer is a good thing if you think about it. More air, more fuel, more power.
http://scaryfastracing.net/

I think this product works particularly well in conjunction with the VOES, the Roady 4 valve head and a properly jetted HSR carb. In your case, it oughta really kick butte.

Aceman:

Drag specialties (many vendors distribute for them) started selling an aftermarket VOES cheaper (~$40) and with different vacuum settings. On an internally stock motor, I recommend a 4&quot; switch. No instructions yet, just look up the TPS thread on RSR.

I'm planning a write up on using the VOES and PowerNow with Dyna and jet setting recommendations as soon as I get time. It may be packaged as an HSR performance kit distributed by a popular vendor

Good luck guys

Jim<br><br>Post edited by: Bucardo, at: 2006/05/03 12:26

Jim,

Thanks for the info. I'm a bit &quot;electronically challenged&quot; myself, which is why I was asking.

I just ordered a Powerflow valve and have ready access to a dyno as well as on-board datalogging capability (Innovate LM-1 Wideband A/F unit with RPM unit which will also record any signal to 5v such as TPS). I have O2 sensor bungs in each of my headers 8 inches from the exhaust ports. Software to chart the data is free (http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/support.php), so if you need any hard data, just ask as the files are readily transferable.

I've been trying to sort out the TPS/AF ratio/octane/timing issue for almost a year now and have concluded about the same as you: The Yamaha TPS setup does not work well with serious performance upgrades. And I can't stand the thought of just unplugging it for WOT curves.
I've got someone looking into the possibilty of a MAP sensor...........

I'm well aware of the velocity vs volume issue, which is why I keep the HSR 42 and installed gapless piston rings this past winter. If I can get mixture velocity up a bit, I should be laughing.............
Looking forward to trying out that Powervalve.........

Cheers,
Kerry

Kerry,

Thanks, I'd like to see those charts whenever it's convenient for you. Just let me know and I'll shoot you my e-mail. If you get a Map sensor and can chart vacuum levels, that would be great too.

Are you planning to test ride the bike with the LM-1 onboard or do you have access to &quot;load&quot; dynos?

I bought a cheaper Lambda meter to mount on the bike to road test, but I haven't figured out where to weld the bung. I was thinking just inside the end of my header (just one for now), but I have to use a single wire O2 sensor (non-heated) and wasn't sure if it'll reach and maintain 650 degrees. Any thoughts?

Thanks, Jim

Hi Jim,
Thanks for all the info. I'll probably wait to install the VOES since we're just now into good riding weather. I'm thinking late in the season (next fall). I've been running my bike without any TPS since I bought it almost 3 years ago. I get some pinging while accelerating hard, and I'm thinking that having some spark advance will help that. Bike runs good other than that. I'll look for your write up on it when you get around to it.
Thanks again.
Tom

Jim,

My data logs from last weekend are on my brother's laptop (had to have him help me with wiring for the TPS signal...........that &quot;electronically challenged&quot; thing again). I was using it to set up the pilot circuit on my HSR. I'll get them from him and get back to you.
I'm hoping to install the VOES Friday and will take the LM-1 on-board with me for a ride Saturday to log A/F vs RPM (no more TPS signal).

The dyno available to me is a Dynojet motorcycle dyno (not sure of model). A buddy of mine has one in his garage at home (he's a serious drag-racing hobbyist).

As for the O2 sensor bung, the best place to mount is in the collector. However, because of amount of exhaust reversion, particularly in v-twins, that can provide inaccurate readings. If you are confident with A/F readings from one cylinder, mount the O2 sensor somewhere in the header. I have a ProPipe which would not take a bung on the collector without some serious chrome damage, so I welded one on each header about 8 inches from exhaust ports. I have not checked temperature, as my sensors are heated, so I'm not sure if you could maintain 650.

Cheers,
Kerry

Jim,

One last question for you.............

Do you recommend a resistor in-line with the VOES wiring? If the Dyna signal goes through at 5v it will trip the &quot;retard&quot; function, no?

Or maybe better to run more advanced curves and have the retard kick in 3 degrees retard?

Think I might try a MAP sensor (http://www.msdignition.com/fuel_12.htm) as well to see what happens.


Cheers,
Kerry<br><br>Post edited by: Madman_Jose, at: 2006/05/04 10:00