I'm probably one of the few here running a stock airbox with a K&N and stage 2 stock exhaust.

I just got a 1700 IM for my 1600 to raise my peak RPM.

I have a Dynojet jet kit with #165 Main, and the clip in the 2nd groove. PMS is around 3 turns (been a while)

It runs great and gets mid 40's on mileage.

My question is: keeping the intake and exhaust the same, I might mess with the state of tune in the jetting a bit to try to optimise the additional RPM, if needed. I am thinking of porting the manifold, and then tweaking out the main jet and needle. Is there any practical gain in the poor man's B.A.K., or is that a waste of time?

The bike was gifted to me several years ago by my Father-in-Law, and he is gone now. Out of respect to my wife, who loves the way it looks as "daddy" had it, I won't change the externals, so the money I intend to spend next is on Race Tech springs and emulators, and a rear shock replacement.

Is anyone running a similar setup, and is the port job and/or Poor Man mod worth my time, or am I going to put in the time for not much gain, and screw up my fueling?

Thanks for any input.

I have the stock box drilled out with a K&N,ported manifold,put the stock pipes back on (stage-1)( Had the exhaust flanges bend) and it runs good. Had to tweek the pms alittle.

And rejeted the carb using Barons.

Thanks bud. I checked out your jetting. You are a 1700, so things will be some different for sure, but at least it gives me some parameters. Do you know who Baron's sources jets from?

Also, i forgt you were in the hills. How did you fair with the March storms? I'm originally from West Liberty. Town is plowed, but me and mine all came out OK.

Barons jets, are Mikuni's.
Without a dyno to check, I'm still on the fence about whether or not there is any difference between a stock air box and the K&N YA-1699, with an extra hole or two(poor mans BAK), or switching to a K&N 4x7 oval, or 6 inch round. The three are almost identical where surface area is concerned. I measure my YA-1699, and used the dimensions on the K&N website for the 6, and 4.5x7, and the three are all right at 38 square inches give or take a half inch.
These bikes seem to tolerate being rich without any noticeable issues(other then reduced mileage and the possibility of SVS).
Where your at now, you have plenty of room to go richer if need be. You can step up to a 167.5, or 170, and or move the clip down to the third or fourth groove from the blunt end(unless your 2nd, is my 4th). If your worried about being rich enough, you can do the WOT test(look for it on the Tech Articles page) when your done with the changes and see what happens.

I took the rubber boot out of the air box where the air enters at the bottom, and drilled an extra 1 3/8 inch hole low on the trailing edge.
The carb throat is only 1 3/8 to 1 1/2 inches across.
The WOT test with the 167.5 mikuni and clip in the fourth(37.5 pilot, 3 or a bit less on the PMS) didn't show any signs of being lean, and I couldn't tell any difference over the 170 main I replaced. I haven't taken any trips to check highway mileage, but all the stop and starts and around town, with the the 170, and the PMS at 3 1/2, was still giving me 36 plus a little

jd, you could put a K&N big air filter on, they are very close in "shape and look" to the stock box look. I dont think she would even notice,

(unless she looks at chrome like most women look at jewelry )

I think you will see I nice a gain in just porting the intake, but anything you can do to open it up to breathe better will help. Whether jetting is needed depends on how much you do.

Rod

Another filter would cut into my suspension budget! Thanks for the replies, and #1 (top, as installed) groove has always been the lean end of the pin, #5 rich. Anybody doing it the other way is ass-backward, but #3 is always the same, so they would be correct 20% of the time!

As suggested, I think I'll change out the IM, port the mainifold, and then pull a W.O.T. check and see what it does. It does not pull very hard now above about 95MPH in top gear, so I think a bigger jet will be in order for a first move, provided the lower end of the circuit is good first.
Standard CV carb procedures apply, of course.

I'll just toss this out, and you can do with it what you want, but from what I've read and experienced with my bike, the stock carb tends to be lean in the primary circuit. There are plenty of people who still use the 35 and are fine, but I notice quite a few have stepped to the 37.5 or even 40. You might want to trade the 35 pilot out for a 37.5, and see what happens. My cold starts are by the book now regarding how long the enricher needs to be out.
I think the factory purposefully detuned these bikes in a big way, so they'd skip past the EPA.

You may know this, there is a cross reference chart on the Tech Articles page so that you can do a size comparison between the Mikuni and DJ jets.
If you move the clip down to the 3rd, or the 4th, you will probably see a change of sorts. I had an aftermarket needle in my carb when I tore it down after I bought the bike used(I was expecting to see a stock one groove needle), and it had the clip in the 3rd with a 165. The bike showed the classic lean symptoms with the WOT test. At 95,it seemed to be out of steam, and it would surge when the throttle was held steady. That is gone now. The bike pulls strong now. 45 to 80 or so in 4th, almost makes me think some velcro on the seat, would be a good idea.

Did you get there with a 37.5 pilot and the 165 main, or did you have to go up on the main as well?

Did you install the Baron's needle yourself, or figure out that's what you had? Sounds like since you have a 1600, we are not far off on setup. Have you ported the manifold or done any airbox mods?

I'm aware of the chart. Thanks. I have a bunch of mikuni jets, so that will be handy.

All help is appreciated. Since the bike is 2200 miles away, and I only get conjugal visits every 6 weeks for a week, I want to make the best of the time together, and ride my bike with my wife too! I have no criminal convictions, so I'm not sure if I spelled that word correctly!

It's an 01, 1600, with V&H long shots. The manifolds stock.

I jumped from the 165, to a 170, but kept the 35 pilot originally. The Barons kit recommended the 170, with after market pipes(it recommends a 172.5 without baffles), and I knew I already had a lean issue from the ride home with the bike when I bought it. I also added the hole to the air box, so thought the step to the 170 would be good.
It ran great after the changes, but it had a lean cough, sometimes when I'd shift for corners etc., and the PO complained to me that it was really cold blooded. I also couldn't get the PMS to even register a hint of a stumble on the rich end, even when it was close to the last thread.
After the cough, I pulled the bowl and installed the 37.5 and the cough disappeared. I was able to put the PMS at 3 1/2 out(switched to 3 or less just recently).
My switching back to 167.5 from the 170, is mostly a mileage experiment, and just to see where the problems start. Plus, I don't use the upper end of the RPM range enough to really need anything larger. I have yet to hit the rev limit on my bike.
I'm wondering how much extra size on the main is wasted for most of us, after we get beyond the factory lean condition.

In retrospect, I may have been fine with the 165, and moving the clip to the 4th groove(and a bigger pilot)....but its kind of a "if I knew then, what I know now" type of deal. I raised my eyebrows at yours being in the 2nd, but the multi groove needles are slimmer then the stock needle, so that may be helping.