Yes you can over oil it and it will blow out onto your pipes and other stuff. The have a red tint in the oil so you can see where you have oiled the filter. I do mine till it has a pink tent if it is red you have to much on the filter. Any way if you over oil it the most of the oil will get sucked into the carb and in a way that is a good thing because it will lube your carb slide. When i run out of stuff in my kit I am going to clean the filter with Simple Green & water and then oil it with cooking oil in a spray bottle.

OK. I have some filter oil for my off road toys and its some pretty tacky stuff that will build up quick if you're not careful. Apparently K&N oil is different. Thanks for the info.
BT

Not sure what is in it but would bet it isn't any better than cooking oil. The coloring is just so you can see where and how much you have it oiled.

ok, so i dove in to the carb yesterday and... well it was a lot easier and less compliacted than i thought it would be. maybe i was just a little intimidated. anyways, so i've read the entire carb section of the tech articles multiple times, and am confused. first, is there any way to determine if i have the stock jets or if they've been upgraded? i can tell someone's been in the carb, but i don't know what was done. i took the little brass plug out right above the float bowl (but not inside of it), and my understanding is that there's supposed to be a screw in there... but there wasn't, just an empty cavity with what looked like 3 little holes... maybe i'm looking in the wrong place, but i didn't see any other plugs like that. next right above that plug is the pilot jet adjusting screw right? is that what everyone edjusts to ~3 1/2 turns to fix lean/rich conditions? well me being the genius i am, turned it in until it seated, but didn't count how far out it was set... anywho, it's set at 3 1/2 turns right now, and still started right up without a choke this morning, which tells me it's still running rich... i think. another question, is the pilot jet adjusting screw the only thing i need to adjust to lean it out? thanks for any help once again. you guys are awesome.

jski5669 wrote:
ok, so i dove in to the carb yesterday and... well it was a lot easier and less compliacted than i thought it would be. maybe i was just a little intimidated. anyways, so i've read the entire carb section of the tech articles multiple times, and am confused. first, is there any way to determine if i have the stock jets or if they've been upgraded? i can tell someone's been in the carb, but i don't know what was done. i took the little brass plug out right above the float bowl (but not inside of it), and my understanding is that there's supposed to be a screw in there... but there wasn't, just an empty cavity with what looked like 3 little holes... maybe i'm looking in the wrong place, but i didn't see any other plugs like that. next right above that plug is the pilot jet adjusting screw right? is that what everyone edjusts to ~3 1/2 turns to fix lean/rich conditions? well me being the genius i am, turned it in until it seated, but didn't count how far out it was set... anywho, it's set at 3 1/2 turns right now, and still started right up without a choke this morning, which tells me it's still running rich... i think. another question, is the pilot jet adjusting screw the only thing i need to adjust to lean it out? thanks for any help once again. you guys are awesome.

You drilled out the wrong plug. Look at the pics again, and you will see the mistake. If you had drilled out the cap over the PMS, you would have found a screw. You need to cap the one you removed. It sounds like the PMS was already uncovered. In the stock configuration, the plug you wanted to drill would have been over the PMS.
Turn the PMS back in to around 2 1/2. If the bike starts right up without the enricher, it will be running way rich in the pilot circuit, when it warms up. The bike really should need the enricher to start and run when its cold. You should pull it all the way to start, and then when the rich stumble starts push it half way in. Leave it half way, until you have gone a mile or so, then push it all the way in. Some people in colder situations have had to leave their enrichers out for longer periods.
The jets will have the size stamped on them. Mikuni has a square with an R as a trade mark. Mikunis are on the top of the mains, and the sides of the pilot. You'll need a magnifying glass to read them, and a good light.

The pilot mixture screw is the adjuster to richen or lean the air/fuel mix in the pilot circuit(idle, slow speed). For the midrange(overlap between the two circuits), it is a combination of the idle(PMS), and the position of the clip on the needle. The needle is part of the Main circuit(1/4 throttle to WOT. With the needle, the further from the blunt end of the needle, the richer the overlap. The closer the clip is to the blunt end, the leaner.

ok, thank you very much. to check needle is it under the main jet? i'll have to get back in to it either tonight or tomorrow.

jski5669 wrote:
ok, thank you very much. to check needle is it under the main jet? i'll have to get back in to it either tonight or tomorrow.

Nope, the needle in the main circuit is under the diaphragm in the top half of the carb. The needle, is attached to the slide under the diaphragm. as the diaphragm goes up and down. It moves the needle in and out of the main from the top. When you look on the carb throat, the black piece in the middle is the slide, and the silver rod under it is the needle.
When you pull the tank, you'll see the black cap on the carb. Remove the two screws, and lift the cap off. Be gentle, you don't want to mess up the diaphragm, that is also part of the rim seal...and there is a spring under it.
When you lift the diaphragm up, the slide and all will come with it.

Look here for what you'll see, and how to go about it...

http://roadstarclinic.com/content/view/60/96/

The pics show the cap, and if you scroll down to "Needle Replacement" on that link you'll get the rest.

Before you do anything you will need to replace or repair the brass plug you pulled out. That plug is put in at the factory to close off those passages. The hole is for casting the carb body and making the passages and then plugged to seal it off from outside air. The carb will not work properly without it being sealed.

Curt wrote:
Before you do anything you will need to replace or repair the brass plug you pulled out. That plug is put in at the factory to close off those passages. The hole is for casting the carb body and making the passages and then plugged to seal it off from outside air. The carb will not work properly without it being sealed.
oh,yea.. i remember that plug...

seeing as i didn't think it was the right one when i finally got it out, i left the screw i tapped in to keep it plugged. i'll just shear it off, and leave the portion screwed in to the plug right where it is. i didn't know that there were two plugs, and since the PO was in the carb bfore me, he must have taken the right one out and not put it back in. so hopefully he had it out because he was rejetting it. but still something's going on if it's only getting 20 mpg. once again thanks