remove air filter, add supplemental fuel when it starts to stall see if it keeps running, if it does then you have a fuel delivery issue, if not then you have another problem.

In my opinion float level wouldn't be an issue after 2 seconds unless the float level is like 0. Would be more a driveability issue not starting issue.

Well doesn't seem to be a float or carb issue. My father and I both checked the float level, made sure there was plenty of head pressure, and watched fuel dump into the motor. The bike is still running fine, then dying at various intervals.

We ran it for a while and started to keep hitting the starter button as soon as it would die. It would run for 30 seconds, die out, hit the button and start running immediately, run for a while, die, start, run...

I spoke with a mechanic that said the "pickup coil" may be at fault, either by being loose or not functioning correctly. That is the next area for us to check inside the left side cover.

Anyone had an issue with the pickup coil on the 1600's? I have heard Warrior's have issues but when they do the bike won't start back up again.

????????? Uh this is the worst.

You can test the pickup coil with a multimeter. There is a white two wire connector inside the left side cover where you can test it. The Pick up coil itself, is located inside the clutch cover.
Several members have had an issue with the pickup coil, but with their bikes, the bike wouldn't even start. It'd turn over, but they were getting no spark at the plugs.

Did you try as suggested above, getting a squirt bottle with gas, and while the air box is off and the bike starts to die giving it a squirt of gas from the bottle? That would solve the getting gas issue once and for all.

Inline spark tester?

Did the next possible check today, took the clutch cover off to see if pickup coil was loose. It definitely wasn't. Couldn't get some of the bolts loosened. How do I test the pickup coil?

Next possible check is to go back to the "relay unit" and test any cutting out. This problem has been going on for almost 5 years now so I have replaced the relay unit with a used one off ebay. The part numbers matched up but it didn't resolve anything.

Anyone had issues with the relay units? When the bike dies, I do hear the relay unit "tick" and I have one of the wires lose power. It's been a while since I tested this but thought there may be some response.

Regarding the "spraying of gas in the carb when it starts to die as previously mentioned"...I must again clarify, the bike does not sputter, does not cough, no backfire, it runs like a dream then just dies like the key has been turned off. The bike doesn't cut out when I wiggle and jiggle the wiring or the key so I'm looking back at the relay unit as an issue or the ignitor unit (the last thing I want to imagine).

Anyone with experience with the relay unit or ignitor units cutting out on these, give me a sign of what I should be looking for and what I should expect.

Thanks.

I didn't read all the post, so not sure if you tried this yet. There are a couple wire connectors inside the headlight bucket, did you check those for a loose connector, frayed wire?

The headlights are not stock and are now disconnected from the circuit all together

Hi,
Ok I do not know the R* electrical as well as you guys but...this sounds very similar to a problem we use to have on Chrysler products in the ole days.
There was a thing called a ballast resister and if it broke or cracked the car would start and stay running as long as you held the key in the start position, but if you started it regular and released the key to the run position it would die after a minute or so.
Is there something in the R* starting system that works like this?
If you hold the start button down will it keep running? Mind you I would not test it like that for very long.
Just some thoughts, hope it helps.

Testing the Pick up coil per Clymers...


Inside the left side cover, look for a white two wire connector, with grey wire, and a black/blue wire. On the pick up coil side of the connection you'll stick the positive probe from the tester into the side with the grey wire, and the negative probe into the side with the black/blue wire. The resistance needs to be between 248 and 372 ohms. If the resistance is outside of that range, then the coil assembly should be replaced.

Tested the ohms on the pickup coil, range is between 296 and 305.

I've also tried holding the starter button and the thing still dies but will fire up immediately.