I have just put a set of ape hangers on and have to lengthen the brake line. I have the brake line already and I am only changing from the MC to the splitter. I have never changed one before so I could use some guidance. I did some searching through the site and havent found enough info to be comfortable just going out in the garage and seeing what happens when I take things apart. Can anyone break it down start to finish easily enough for someone who is new to it to understand? Anything would be appreciated.

Changing out is pretty easy ... bolt off, bolt on. Use new copper gaskets for the banjos ... you'll need 4 all together.

You then need to bleed the system as the line is full of air. If you don't have a brake bleeder or a speed bleeder then you need to pump the lever and hold while opening the brake bleeder. Keep doing this until the lever hardens. It will take some time to get all the air out of the line.

Don't forget to replenish the brake fluid in the MC before you run out otherwise it's like starting over again.

Doc

okay, how about when I drain the line to begin with. I saw in one of the threads to remove the MC cover and suck the fluid out, take the bottom banjo bolt off at both calipers and put them into a can, remove the top bolt at the MC and let them drain. When all lines are empty I can then remove the section of brake line I am replacing, put the new one on, fill the MC and start the bleeding process? This may sound stupid but I dont need to put the cover back on the MC as I am bleeding it do I? The brake fluid should start making its way into the line as I pump it being sure to refill the MC before it goes dry. Should the new line I ordered come with the new copper gaskets?

Don't know why you would disconnect the line at the calipers. It's not really needed as you're only replacing the top portion.

No you don't need to put the cover back on the MC but just be aware that if you pump hard then soon brake fluid will 'shoot' up .... just pull the lever relatively slowly.

No ... the lines don't usually come with the gaskets. The dealer should have a box full.

You make need to periodically tap the banjos with the handle of a rubber screwdriver to 'loosen' any air bubbles.

Doc

I guess my thought of taking the banjos off at the calipers was to drain the lines completely, but if I am only changing the top line, I guess I can take it off at the splitter and save myself a bunch of work. So when Im bleeding the line afterwards, by pumping the lever all the air will be pushed down to the bleeder valve, and by holding the lever in and cracking the bleeder i am forcing the air out of the bleeder. Tapping the banjo fittings will just knock the air that is trapped loose? I think this is starting to make a little sense. Hopefully I am getting the right idea. Like I said, this is new to me.

I use a pump type oil can with a clear plastic hose to connect it to the bleed fitting on the caliper. connect the now line at the bottom and put the top end in a catch bottle up near the master cylinder. Pump about a pint of fluid into the caliper on one side, Change to the other side and repeat. Attact the top of the line to the cylinder and pump some more to fill the reservoir.

Pumping the fluid up from the bottom pushes the air ahead of it. By not connecting the top of the line you don't have to worry about sucking the fluid out of the reservoir or making a mess over filling it! Then when you connect the top of the line just continue pumping from the bottom untill the reservoir is full.

As long as you don't let the pump can get empty and put air in at the bottom everything should be slick, neat & tidy.

Clifford