I've been running synthetic oil forever now but I've recently been experimenting with high end diesel synthetics. They have a lot higher detergent content than normal everyday oils. 15/40
My motor loves it.....runs great. The transmission loves it......shifts great.
Has anyone else toyed with this idea?

Not trying to hijack the thread. Just wondering if maybe our motors could benifit from a higher detergent content oil. These oils are good in high shear situations too.(transmissions)

Might also be the ethanol gas mixture...I had a stuttering problem (might call it a miss-like situation) last year...went to the dealer and they were telling me to clean out the crab because the ethanol mixture cleans the gunk and then lets it sit in the carb blocking the jets, etc. I decided to re-jet, do the pipes, K&N filter and kit and now the bike runs great...try some carb/injector cleaner and see if that helps....worked for me until the ethanol blens crapped up the carb again.

Regards, Ted

n5ifi wrote:
I've been running synthetic oil forever now but I've recently been experimenting with high end diesel synthetics. They have a lot higher detergent content than normal everyday oils. 15/40
My motor loves it.....runs great. The transmission loves it......shifts great.
Has anyone else toyed with this idea?

Not trying to hijack the thread. Just wondering if maybe our motors could benifit from a higher detergent content oil. These oils are good in high shear situations too.(transmissions)

I am running Shell Rotella T pure synth...have to agree my R* loves it

Regards, Ted

thanks i will try this and get back with you.

Ted I agree i also run rotella T full synthetic and the engine is queiter and smoother. When not missing that is!!

I know some don't agree with this process but I can say without a doubt that the one time I had what I thought was SVS I poured the correct dose of seafoam in the fuel tank and with a cold engine cranked the motor and removed the vacuum line and allowed the engine to suck seafoam into the intake at a high idle untill the motor was dead. Let it sit overnight and then ride it long and hard the next day. It cured my problem and there was a lot of soot that came out during the ride the next day as commented on by my riding buddy. It loosened something up for sure.
I'm also wondering if you might have an intake leak into the front cylinder at the head? Has it ever been off the bike?
This apparent rich condition in the rear cyclinder as opposed to the front cylinder has been posted on here many times before so it's nothing new for sure. Maybe its not a fuel problem. Maybe its an electrical problem with weak spark? Have you replaced your resistors in the plug boot with solid wire?

Thanks for the info everyone but i cured the problem yesterday by replacing the plug wires and removing the resistors from the plug wire nipples.While i was at it i also ported the intake and rejeted the carb. I liked the bike before but now i love it the bike runs better than it ever has since new and has lots more power.When i checked the resistance on the rear wires it was a lot higer than the front causing the rear cylinder to miss and causing the rich condition. road the bike 110 miles checked plugs front and rear were the same!!!! Thanks again starrider06

PS If anyone is interested the wires in these coils are siliconed in but they can be pulled out and there are pointed studs inside to reinstall wires on, just make sure to resilicone the new wires back in and allow the silicone to dry. By the way i used accell wires if you buy one 60" long wire and cut correctly it will make all four wires. So if you have a miss or one cylinder that appears richer than the other try this it works and only cost $10.00 for the wire!!!

glad ya got it going, interesting fix on the plug wires

Make sure you have NO air leaks first.
George I have an 05 and that is the same thing mine was doing. It started at 3000 miles when it was new and I have over 17000 now. I have fought this problem for a LONG time. You can ask the guys I have rejetted and battled that problem for ages. The way I finally cured my problem was to remove the exhaust and sprayed Deepcreap(spray SeaFoam)straight into the exhause ports until it runs out. Put a rag in the ports and let it sit all night. The next day spary deepcreap into the carb until it dies and let it sit for a bit while you put the air cleaner back on. Put a regular treatment in a full tank of gas and run that out and change your oil. THEN rejet using this method. First get your pilot circuit properly jetted to give you a smooth idle and smooth accleration. Next get the needle set to give you good midrange performance, the the main circuit for max speed. In other words start from the bottom. Read this.
http://baronscustom.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1344&sid=1f91b6c53aade0afeaf48a7de9053a51