musky: doc shadow: pop rivet: and everyone else:


the popping is back, but no sputtering this time. i have been putting some major time in at work lately and havnt been able to run the bike due to the rain off and on this week.

i had put some more m.m.oil in the carb. while the bike was running until the bike died and let it sit sence my last posting on 8/27/2006.

i fired up the bike and let all the smoke clear, i thought someone was going to call the fire dept..

then after about five minutes of running i shut off the bike and performed an oil change + oil filter, also the oil level is only 1/4 inch on the hatch marks with the stick screwed all the way in.

i then decided to take a ride and the bike ran great for about 1/2 a mile and started the popping bad, it lasted around 3.5 miles and the the bike ran great again.

im starting to wonder if the carb. heater could have anything to do with this problem?

any comments are welcome!!!

Post edited by: dozer, at: 2006/09/01 19:34<br><br>Post edited by: dozer, at: 2006/09/01 19:41

Well, here's another maybe. How is your choke working? When you pull your choke knob out slowly do you feel 3 clicks? I recently found out my choke was always on the first click. I was running with my choke partially on all the time. I thought it was off, my bike was popping, eating gas, just generally running like crap. I tightened up the round rubber grommet right behind the choke knob and now it goes all the way off. Bike runs fine again. When I start my bike on the second click I let it run for a minuts and then push it in to the first click and ride. The choke goes in by itself from the first click when it's ready. Maybe your choke is just not adjusted right and it's running on choke too long before it pulls in and starts running right. Man, I hope you find out what's wrong so you can start enjoying your bike again.

musky:

i just went and checked the choke, and i have 4 clicks on my 2005 roady

anouther thing the manifold porting rules, i have such a difference in acceleration.

i did screw the pms back in to 3.5 screws out but the bike had decell backfiring, so i scewed it out a little at a time till it is now 4 turns out, when the bike is warmed up it really runs good.

i guess the real question is, if i have to have the pms screwed out that far should i just put a next size jet kit in there from barons and then maybe screw the pms back in? <br><br>Post edited by: dozer, at: 2006/09/01 20:13

i have 4 clicks

Other people have said that too. I don't know why some have 3, some have 4, and some have none. I guess just for the hell of it you could tighten up the rubber grommet a little to see if you knob would go in more and take it for a ride. Do you have the choke cable routed correctly? The &quot;L&quot; bend should be pointed towards the the knob. If you route it wrong it could be pointed down which would put tension on the cable. Are you running a cooler plug then recommended. Did you re check all the manifold bolts and the carb clamp? Exhaust gaskets good? Exhaust bolts tight? You can unplug the carb heater and not hurt anything so give it a try.

dozer wrote:
i did screw the pms back in to 3.5 screws out but the bike had decell backfiring, so i scewed it out a little at a time till it is now 4 turns out, when the bike is warmed up it really runs good.

i guess the real question is, if i have to have the pms screwed out that far should i just put a next size jet kit in there from barons and then maybe screw the pms back in?

That's correct. Anytime you can screw the PMS in or out (4 turns) then you need to go to the next size jet.

Remember that turning out you are making it richer so the bike is running lean and turning in you are making it leaner so the bike is running too rich and out is rich.

What are you current settings?

Doc

hi doc shadow:

my current settings are stock on the 2005 carb. all but the pms turned out 4 turns.

ais gone
stock air box back drilled out with 9- 7/16 holes, and the breather hose on back capped off.
self ported manifold &quot;made a huge difference&quot; and the vent capped off
gas tank cap vent plugs removed
stock exhaust gutted &quot;sounds good&quot;
crank case breather hose to bottom of the frame

i took the bike for a 35 mile ride this morning before the rain sets in for the afternoon. the bike was idling for 10mins. before i left. the bike idles great, takes off like a rocket, but when i got around a 1/4 of a mile away from the house it started poping loud, so i backed off the trottle due to it was embarissing, and reved the engine while holding in the clutch in while drifting down the hill and then down shifted and ingaged the clutch and let the rpms rev. up stopping the poping some.
once i was around 3.5 miles from the house it ran great and went for my sat. ice cream run to dairy queen &quot;bad ass biker ha ha&quot; ate my ice cream and went to see my wife at work, left there and went to lowes for a few things and came home.
the whole time it ran really great, no decel poping or any other problems, but let me tell ya. the manifold porting made one hell of a difference.

the thing is what would you rec. on the jetting?
i have decided to go with a barons kit to stay with minuki jets.
<br><br>Post edited by: dozer, at: 2006/09/02 13:23

Looks like your pushing it trying to run your setup on a stock carb.

You're running a 182.5 main with a one clip needle. When you get the jet kit start off with the 172 main and the needle on the 4 the groove. Tben try the WOT test.

The jet kit comes (used to come) with a 170 and 167.5 so you have a lot of 'headroom' with the main jets.

BTW ...... I never idle my bike. I start it up push the coke in one stop and then take off. Total time about 15 seconds. Ideling just promotes carbon buildup

Plus is more likely to creep forward, fall down and go boom.

Doc

doc: or who ever else wants to give some insight on this subject:

you said im running a 182.5 main with a one clip needle. When you get the jet kit start off with the 172 main and the needle on the 4 the groove. Then try the WOT test.
The jet kit comes (used to come) with a 170 and 167.5 so you have a lot of 'headroom' with the main jets.





so let see if im right a 2005 road star dont have a 165 minuki jet in it, it has a 182.5 minuki jet. and the smaller the # the bigger the jet if im understanding you right.

im under the impression that minuki uses a cc flow rate, so i would need a bigger jet to richen up the fuel am i right?

Post edited by: dozer, at: 2006/09/02 19:59

Post edited by: dozer, at: 2006/09/02 20:10<br><br>Post edited by: dozer, at: 2006/09/02 20:13

Carbs can be confusing,if you let them. The needle that comes in the jet kit is tapered at a different rate than the stocker,so...your actually putting in a main jet that is leaner (numerically smaller too) than stock, but it works with the new needle that you will install.

big bear:

if im running great at full throttle and plenty of power may i add, but not very good at lower speed coasting, wouldnt i need to maybe richen up my pilot air jet with a smaller pilot air jet?