I know that this is discussed time and again, but I see a wide range of responses and need a little direction here in Tinkerville.
Current Set Up
I have an 06 RoadStar Silverado, and will post a picture as soon as I get that figured out.
I ride at sea level almost all the time in South Florida.
I have Cobra Speedster Slash Cut with baffles
AIS is still in place (maybe not for long)
I have the PMS set at 2.5 turns out and it is starting and running well maybe a little temperature hot especially when doing a lot of slow speed riding.

I have ordered the BAK and PMS screw and plan to install them this weekend. The quesiotn is what settings should I start with?
Main Jet size 170 or 172.5?
PMS 2 or 3 or 3.5?
Clip 4th groove or 5th groove?

I am a little confused and need a relaible place to start.

Thank you all for your expertise and experience.

Bob

Crusierbob wrote:
.... it is starting and running well maybe a little temperature hot especially when doing a lot of slow speed riding.

..... then why do you want to rejet?

It will run hot in FL, especially if you're going slow so that you can check out the babes on the beach.

I have ordered the BAK and PMS screw and plan to install them this weekend. The quesiotn is what settings should I start with?
Main Jet size 170 or 172.5?
PMS 2 or 3 or 3.5?
Clip 4th groove or 5th groove?

When you put the BAK on (and I'm assuming you also bought the Baron jet kit) then put the Mikuni 170, leave the stock pilot, set the clip on the 4th groove from the top (the blunt end) in the following order .... washer, clip, white spacer, silver washer.

What do you mean you ordered a "PMS screw"? For the stock PMS screw turn it out 2.5 turns.

This is a starting point and you will need to 'tune' it for your conditions. I suggest you read the Tech Tips section for help.

Doc

Hey Doc

The Barons jet kit comes with the BAK. Here is the PMS screw. thinking about getting one myself.

http://baronscustom.com/html/catalog/moreinfo.html?productguid=507DF6DB-D4D5-34C0-A5B3-D0FC6E967B33

Tnanks.

The Baron PMS may be a good idea but I wonder how you get your hand in there ..... and without burning yourself.

Doc

I wonder how you get your hand in there ..... and without burning yourself.

That's why I'm in the "Thinking about getting one" stage. We have the cold months to let our brothers in the south buy the stuff that might not work so by the summer we'll know if we should buy it or not.

Thank you for your input.

The PMS Screw is the new Pilot Mixture Adjusment Screw offered to replace the stock PMS screw. It has a knurled knob that can be more easily turned without removing the carb. I will let you all know how it goes.

I will
Start with the 170 main
4 groove on the needle
3 turns out on the PMS and see how it goes.

A WOT test should tell a lot.

Crusierbob wrote:
The PMS Screw is the new Pilot Mixture Adjusment Screw offered to replace the stock PMS screw. It has a knurled knob that can be more easily turned without removing the carb.

Just to clarify ..... with the stock PMS you do not take the carb off to turn the PMS. In fact you could not adjust the PMS with the carb off the bike as you would be guessing as to the setting.

You use a long screwdriver to access the PMS and turn it.

The knurled knob just means that you don't need a screwdriver but ..... ouch!

Keep us posted .... we'll be interested to hear how it works.

Doc

I hope I can adjust the PMS without removing the Carb. The new screw I hope will make it easier, but burned fingeres may be ther result.

Now that the brass cap is off and when I get the stock air box off there should be a lot more room to make adjustments without removing the carb.

I just want to get it running well and a little cooler.

WITH the PMS cap removed all you need is a small screww driver and a mirror to get to it adjust it. I dont remember if i had the BAK on or off when i did adjust it/ I do think i had it on though and once you get the screwdriver into the PMS screw you do the rest by feel.