Just to add a little, 1/8 inside diameter tubing fits like a glove.

Well I figured out what the problem was. The float was OK.
I have been running my 06 roadstar with a 172.5 needle on the 5th and PMS at 3.25.
I changed my main to a 170 at the 3rd clip and amazing things can happen.
The bike could pull a freight train if I needed it to. I was running way to rich and that was causing the stuttering at 1/2 to WOT. I have learned that temperature and humidity can really affect the way the bike runs.
Here in Burlington, Ontario, Canada we have gone from no humidity in the high 50's to mid to high 80's humidity factored in giving temps close to 95.
The bike ran pretty bad until jet changes. I know most of you recommend a 172.5 but this has worked the best for me.
Thanks to all of you for your help and advice
Topher

Topher,

We'll have to keep that in mind. I notice that Odo is saying that the Mikuni 167.5 main may also be the way to go for the 04-05's.

Burlington!!! Small world. I have to go there this Saturday for a soccer game.

Doc

OK I have the new needle and seat installed and in the manual at paul minors site in the yamaha supplement it says to set the float at 4-5mm above the mating surface someone on this site said it should be level.that person asked me where i got my info and i said from the yamaha manual.now i am worried it may be set to high.so i am asking who came up with the even with the mating surface measurement and where they got it before i go taking it all apart again to lower it. thanks for any info

MY-STAR-1 wrote:
OK I have the new needle and seat installed and in the manual at paul minors site in the yamaha supplement it says to set the float at 4-5mm above the mating surface someone on this site said it should be level.that person asked me where i got my info and i said from the yamaha manual.now i am worried it may be set to high.so i am asking who came up with the even with the mating surface measurement and where they got it before i go taking it all apart again to lower it. thanks for any info

For the 1700, the manual states 4-5 mm above. Odo has been recommending even with the mating surface or 1 mm above.

Post a message to Odo on the R* Riders Forum to confirm.

Doc

Doc:

How are you able to adjust the float level while the carb is on the bike? What's the trick?

Also, if the float level IS off, is there any trick to adjust it and get it right the first time, instead of using the trial-and-error method.

I'm installing a MaxFlo Airkit & Jet Kit in the Spring. MaxAir recommends a different float level.

Thanks for any help.

06MidnightStar wrote:
Doc:

How are you able to adjust the float level while the carb is on the bike? What's the trick?

With difficulty.

I haven't done it this way but you can ..... level the bike on with your lift. Measure the float level and write it down; this is your baseline. Take off the float bowl. Push the float up gently with your finger until the needle seats in the seat. Note or measure where the seam of the float is and compare it to the baseline measurement. If the float is horizontal then the measurement is usually '0' (the liquid in the tube is level with the mating surface). If you need it above or below the mating surface then measure accordingly from the bowl mating surface to the float seam.

Helps if you are a Contorsionist.

Also, if the float level IS off, is there any trick to adjust it and get it right the first time, instead of using the trial-and-error method.

Win any lottery tickets lately. Actually it's not that bad.

If you just bend the tab a little you'll probably be within the range on the first try. but that's why if you have it on the bench it's easier to "trial-and-error". I've done it on the bench a couple of times and only had to take the bowl off twice.

Doc

The only reason I've never taken the carb completely off the bike is because of disconnecting the TPS. Is that thing REALLY such a nightmare to get on & off? I need to check my float level, and if it needs adjusting...well, let's just say I'm NOT a contortionist, so the carb is coming off...

Thanks,

RK

RK
Trace the wires coming off the TPS back under the tank and you will see a plug you can undo. You just don't want to take the TPS off the carb itself.

Roadkill1962 wrote:
The only reason I've never taken the carb completely off the bike is because of disconnecting the TPS. Is that thing REALLY such a nightmare to get on & off? I need to check my float level, and if it needs adjusting...well, let's just say I'm NOT a contortionist, so the carb is coming off...

Thanks,

RK

You don't take the TPS off .... you disconnect at the connector on the left side.

I find the carb come off fairly easy but it's just a pain to disconnect everything. You just pull the carb off the intake and turn it upside down but I find it 'tight' like that.

Doc