I was working on my carb yesterday and when removing the main jet the screwdriver slipped and hit the float. After putting it all back together I noticed on hard throttle near top of the powerband she would start to stutter. I could not hear the usual sound of the rev limiter. Am I too rich on the main or did I Scr*w up the float level. Help and how do I fix this?

Topher

Check the float level first. It's faily simple to do and you don't have to take the carb off.

You do have the service manual?

Doc

Doc,

Don't have the service manual as of yet. I have been trying to search for a " how to check float levels, but no success.

Thanks
Topher<br><br>Post edited by: Topher, at: 2006/05/26 11:30

Check here ...... http://roadstarclinic.com/content/view/59/96/

Doc<br><br>Post edited by: DocShadow, at: 2006/05/26 12:50

Thanks Doc

Hey Doc,

My float level seems to be off, about 5 mil instead of 1-2 mil.
How do I adjust or fix it?

Topher

You can look at / print out the Road star manuals here. I think you need both the 1600 hundred and the 1700. I haven't read through them both but at first glance it seems the 1700 covers mostly what is different from the 1600. If the carbs are the same they might be covered in the 1600. Anwho, you can check them out.

http://www.ras123.com/roadstar/docs.htm
http://www.nfl-ffa.com/roadstar/1700%20Roadstar%20Supplement%202004.pdf<br><br>Post edited by: Musky, at: 2006/05/31 19:06

You need to make sure that the carb is level.

I prefer to take off the bike and do it on the bench but if you want to do the process with the carb on the bike it's best to level the bike so the carb is level.

Check out my link in my previous response and the on-line manuals that Musky gave the link for.

If you still have a problem, give us a shout.

Doc

Doc,

Just to make sure before I go ahead with this.
I had my bike dynoed and the tech told me my bike was dialed on other than at the top of the power band. He recommended I drop my needle one more clip which would have been the sixth slot. I did so, and in the process knocked the float with my screwdriver. Needless to say, after that episode the bike didn't run too good and I went back to the 5th clip hoping that would solve my acceleration issues.

Anyhow here are my symptoms:

Driving at half throttle accelerate to full throttle the bike is sluggish as it increases speed and than finally after a second or two starts to stutter heavily before hitting the rev limiter.

The bike acts like it is rich but before I hit the float it ran great.

Could this be the float or do you think something else?

Thanks
Topher

Topher,

If you only changed the needle clip position, and then only changed it back, Doc is most likely correct (he usually is).

But to be sure, read the article Doc put in his post, and check the level before you start. With the bike standing fully upright, you should have a level in the clear tube coming from the floatbowl drain that is real close to the seam between the float bowl and the carb's main body.

The clear tubing you will need can be obtained from most hobby stores that have any kind of selection of gas powered model cars or plains (RC). Just get a couple of feet of some of that tubing and you can attach it to the float bowl drain to check.

After attaching it, hold the tubing up along the side of the carb with the open end up higher than about the middle of the carb throat. Open the float bowl drain valve (5mm alan head, facing toward the split in your jugs, on bottom of float bowl) and the gas in your carb will flow out and fill the tube to the same height that the floats are currently allowing the gas to rise to.

If you confirm first, you won't end up wasting your time if it looks ok.

GRAM