This thread discusses the Content article: Drill the Stock Exhaust (stage 1

Does the stage 1 or two have any detriment to the mixture, or only at stage 3 do I worry about jets? I live in a townhouse complex. What stage would be suitable for the higher reving start-up on choke, without boots being thrown at me?

You're OK with the stock carb setup for Stage 1 and 2.

For Stage 3 you may need to adjust the PMS but you won't need to rejet.

Stage 3 has a lower thumping sound and definitely louder but you can control the volume by controlling your right hand.

Nothing wrong with free boots.

Doc

DocShadow wrote:
You're OK with the stock carb setup for Stage 1 and 2.

For Stage 3 you may need to adjust the PMS but you won't need to rejet.

Stage 3 has a lower thumping sound and definitely louder but you can control the volume by controlling your right hand.

Nothing wrong with free boots.

Doc

HA! HA! There's definitely nothing wrong with free boots! That's funny Doc!
Just took your advice from that picture you posted and did a hack job on my baffles (05 Roadstar w/stock mufflers) this morning. Went to stage 2 just to expiriment with this exhaust and did not want to mod to stage 3 without asking you first if it's ok, I do not want to mess up carb calibrations? (the stealership has to replace my current exhaust due to damage on it from their forklift hitting the crate the bike was still in when I bought it.) So thought I can't go wrong wrecking already dented pipes. My wife is mad at me for making the perfectly quiet bike louder. I want to get rid of all backpressure to gain mpg (... and make it thump more!!!) If I did go to stage 3 and had to adjust the PMS, what would be the symptoms of a problem, and how would I go about adjusting the PMS? Can you explain wher it is and how to adjust it?

"Went to stage 2 just to expiriment with this exhaust and did not want to mod to stage 3 without asking you first if it's ok, I do not want to mess up carb calibrations?"

You should be OK with the stock carb settings as long as you don't change out the stock airbox.

"I want to get rid of all backpressure to gain mpg (... and make it thump more!!!)"

I don't know how much of a mpg gain you'll get but you'll loss a bit of torque with the Stage 3 mod.

"If I did go to stage 3 and had to adjust the PMS, what would be the symptoms of a problem, and how would I go about adjusting the PMS? Can you explain wher it is and how to adjust it?"

Check out the Tech Tips section for pic of the carb and PMS. You'll need to remove the carb and drill out the brass plug.

You'll also need to remove the AIS as it will cause popping in the unbaffled pipes.

Sorry to be short; have to go catch a plane.

Doc<br><br>Post edited by: DocShadow, at: 2006/06/25 13:00

I modified my stock pipes to stage 1 (eight 1/2&quot; holes)

Just traded up from 2002 V-Star with Cobra pipes-To a new (out of crate) 2005 RoadStar Midnight Star.
This is my first log on for the Road Star Clinic, so I'm learning how to use it. Not big on Computers?
Just traded up from 2002 V-Star with Cobra pipes-To a new (out of crate) 2005 RoadStar Midnight Star. Added Switch-Blade windsheild, Mustang Seat and backrest, Rear Floorboards, Passing Lamps, and nice hard leather bags.
Not real happy about a few things, one was the sound.I didn't like the stock sound at all - I wish I had known how quiet it was before signing the dotted line. I would have added &quot;RoadHouse 2 into 1&quot; upon purchase.
I find the stage 1 mod just about the correct sound level, but sounds a little puffy?
Qusetions?
a) I had a hesitation and backfire upon twisting the thottle (still there after stage 1 mod). This happens more when bike is cool and ambient temp. is cooler? Is this normal sounds like it may be?
b) Should I get the dealer to do analize the exhaust to see if I need to re-jet or something?
c) Also have the terrible knocking in engine. Comes and goes at different RPM and load? Dealer says this is normal?
Have 2500 kms. on Bike.
Map (Ontario Canada)<br><br>Post edited by: Map, at: 2006/09/03 12:31

Trying to add Image of bike

Map (Ontario, Canada) <br><br>Post edited by: Map, at: 2006/09/03 12:44

map:

i was told by the dealer that if you modify your pipes or change them thats why some riders are getting sticky valves. i dont believe that to be true.

i thought you may want to no this now while the bike is new, i tend to think this is due to the crank case breather blowing oil into the carb. and building up on the valves as carbon.

i do think you may want to bypass your crank case breather with a new hose, and put it down along with your gas tank over fill vent hose under the seat to the ground and cap of behind the stock breather were it orig. hooked into.

you dont have to do this, its just what i would do if i would had known about that problem when i had gotten the bike new.

take a 5mm allean wrench and remove the front center bolt and the two top phillips screws from the back of the air box (or remove the whole air box) and remove the air filter and see if you have any oil in the carb. to see if this is presently taking place right now.

by the way i have totaly gutted pipes and everybody tells me as i pull up &quot;nice harley&quot; i say thanks but its not a harley. there loud man.

if you do gutt them eventually than you will need to rejet. i have to soon
Post edited by: dozer, at: 2006/09/03 14:34<br><br>Post edited by: dozer, at: 2006/09/03 14:37

Hi Dozer. I will be checking my airbox for any oil today. Sounds like a good idea to move the breather hose. My V-Star always had a little oil in the box? Never really effected anything. The 1100 V-Star engine is flawless. Only problemwas it didn't like water. Always backfired after washing bike.

No problem with the Roadstar and water?
Also, did you feel you had any less power after performing stag 1 (or 2) on your pipes?


Map

Post edited by: Map, at: 2006/09/04 10:14

Post edited by: Map, at: 2006/09/04 10:15<br><br>Post edited by: Map, at: 2006/09/04 10:31

What kind of deceleration popping do you get with the gutted pipes? What did you do to get the guts out. I banged with a mallet and angle iron to the point that all the welds broke and pushed the guts forward. I am now stuck there. I have some modded slip-ons currently but don't have the sound I want and an intermittant leak that sounds like a Howitzer going off at charge 7.

Hi JDooza. Both before and after modifying the pipes I have had backfiring on acceleration? When I crack the throttle it sometimes pops? I did what Dozer said to do today and checked for oil in the intake fiter box. There was a little oil hardly detectable unless you ran you finger around the carb intake boot? So I don't think the problem is oil getting on the valves???? Even with the intake box off it backfired even good size flame? I guess without the filter and box this might be normal? But I'm sure it shouldn't backfire with everthing together. Just came back from a 100km fast run it's like only 15 deg. C outside, and the backfire is almost gone after getting the bike up to temp.
Anyway as far as you pipes go you will find some good tips on the &quot;Tech Tips&quot; under &quot;exhaust&quot;. I pretty much followed the stage 1 instrctions but put eight 1/2&quot; holes. I was really carefull taking out the inverted cone that was at the pipe end. I used a carbide cutter on a dremmle like tool and cut out the weld. I them pulled out the cone nice and clean - then made a template and marked the holes for centre punch. I attached a pic for you to see and you ca hear the results if you log on to u-tube. It is a video my wife took of me pulling away. It souns really good.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xx-qZHd8oGc

I hope you can recover from your pipe problem. I'm no expert. A Millwright by trade and I hate trying to modify stock stuff (I'd rather upgrade to something pre-engineered) but the wife said &quot;no more stuff for the bike this year!&quot;. I will put on RoadHouse 2 into 1 pipes over the winter.

Map <br><br>Post edited by: Map, at: 2006/09/04 16:10