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Re:Cracked intake further info...
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TOPIC: Re:Cracked intake further info...
#1004833
coolalexrex (User)
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Cracked intake further info... 3 Months ago  
I am having a hard time getting my 2000 R* idling, could a cracked intake be the problem? Fresh gas & plugs, starts and runs easily with starter fluid, then just kind idles up and down until it pretty much quits. Also, choke seems to be closing too early...

Some additional info - I've been screwing with the idle set, and may have it way off base...is there a standard starting point on setting the idle?
 
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Last Edit: 2017/03/19 13:02 By coolalexrex.
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#1004835
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Re:Cracked intake further info... 3 Months ago  
The enricher, will close on its own, because the tension nut(*NOT* the plastic hex nut that holds it in the bracket)needs snugged just a bit. The enricher should stay put, allowing you to determine when to push it further in. The tension nut, is under the rubber bumper the knob almost touches when you push the knob in. Pinch the sides of the rubber bumper to grip the tension nut inside the bumper, and turn it to the right.

Whens the last time you ran something like Seafoam or Techron in the gas? Put a 16 ounce can of Seafoam in the next tank before filling the tank, and run that tank out and see how it runs.

Is the idle set correctly? It needs to be set around 900 rpms when the motor is hot(when you return from a ride, not idled in the drive for 5 minutes), to start and idle properly.

...and yes. If the Manifold is leaking either through surface cracks, or at the flanges where it meets the heads, it can cause a serious air leak.
 
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Re:Cracked intake further info... 3 Months ago  
Thanks for the choke info, will do that! I just finished a tank-drain and Seafoam treatment, and things do *seem to be improving. Not happy about this intake situation though. I've been playing a game of dominos with this bike since last summer. I'd prefer some saddle time...
 
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Re:Cracked intake further info... 3 Months ago  
If'n it was mine, I'd get a new intake. Curt(a member here) does a really nice ported intake, and usually has a listing in the classifieds. He will surface the flanges and solder the AIS port shut also, if you want him to.
Use the blue heat and fuel resistant sealer, that doesn't harden. Hylomar is one type, and Permatex makes a product called Permashield that is very similar. Apply just a little bit to the surface of the flanges, outside of the ring seals. Yamaha uses grease instead of the sealer. The grease and the sealer help the flanges to slip and slide as they are snugged down. The nonhardening part of the sealer prevents deforming the flanges. The silicone type sealers can result in a canary under the carpet scenario if you're not careful.

Theres a real good chance the manifold is leaking somehwere, simply because its the nature of the beast. They are prone to developing a leak at the head to manifold flanges, and you can have a devil of a time finding it. If you can ease the enricher out just a bit, and it runs better, then you know you have a vacuum leak somewhere.

Its not really a choke. It actually adds fuel and a little more air, when you pull it out. The bikes appreciate being rich until they warm up a bit. Having the proper tension on the enricher will help.
 
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#1004844
coolalexrex (User)
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Re:Cracked intake further info... 3 Months ago  
Ton of info there, thanks! Will check in to it. Is there a "cheater" way to test the manifold? If I tape the crack (temporarily)will that reliably tell me if it's the issue?
 
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Re:Cracked intake further info... 3 Months ago  
coolalexrex wrote:
Ton of info there, thanks! Will check in to it. Is there a "cheater" way to test the manifold? If I tape the crack (temporarily)will that reliably tell me if it's the issue?


You can spray the flange areas with something like starting fluid, while the bike is running. Listen for a surge or bog in the idle. Keep it out of the intake, or you'll skew your test.
Davej uses a small plumbers propane style torch with a rubber hose, to check with. Don't turn it on very much, and move the end of the hose around the flanges. If it has a vacuum leak in that area, it *may respond to the extra fuel.
 
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Re:Cracked intake further info... 3 Months ago  
How intensive is the manifold replacement/time/$? Special tools? What does Curt charge for his?
 
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Re:Cracked intake further info... 3 Months ago  
Pull the tank.
Take the carb loose enough to get it out of the way. If the pump is still on the bike, removing it will give more room.
Four allen head bolts on the manifold.
Put it back together.

That's the gist of it. With the tank, carb, and the pump assembly out of the way, it's a fairly simple job if you're somewhat handy.

Check the Tech Articles section for how to's on most of this.

I'm not sure what Curt charges these days. I've purchased two from him and was very pleased. He uses new OEM manifolds.
 
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#1004920
Aussie John (User)
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Re:Cracked intake further info... 3 Months ago  
I covered my manifold with silastic ( Oz lingo ) for a tube of sticky stuff, mastic or whatever you call it, now it might be that the jets have had some water in them and they have corrosion blocking them ???
 
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#1004940
Seal_Bch_Tom (User)
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Re:Cracked intake further info... 3 Months ago  
I have a 2000 RSS and the intakes commonly do crack but most seem to be just cosmetic. FYI if you replace it, you can buy a Barons "supposedly PORTED" manifold, but the porting is a joke. They appear to be OEM manifolds and someone hit the sharp corners inside the intake with a dremel tool very very lightly. I personally don't buy the claim that their manifold gives you 6 to 8 more horsepower. I spent a few hours porting the Barons manifold and am very happy with it now.

http://www.motoparthub.com/BA_5524_01_BARON_Hand_Ported_Intake_Manifold_Manifold_Ported_Yam?src=Google&gclid=Cj0KEQjw-73GBRCC7KODl9zToJMBEiQAj1Jgf9HP64OOizK4ArLJDJOFJFAT0FpW5uycdlSfo8QRZ7QaAsLb8P8HAQ

Here's a link if you want to do it yourself:

http://roadstarclinic.com/content/view/53/96/

You may want to clean your carb if its never been serviced, mine did need work on the accelerator pump o-ring and the rubber boot on top and while you're at it replace the float bowl needle. Pretty easy to do if you are mechanical.
 
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